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#1 |
![]() Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Delanson, NY
Posts: 924
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I just took my Z down from the lift and found out the battery didn't have enough juice to start it. Jumped it, started right up. I let it run for awhile to look for a very minor noise from the front of the engine which appears to be the belt tensioner fluttering. I also detect a slight bearing noise. Are tensioners making this type a noise common? I initially thought it might be the alternator but it does not sound like it. Any thoughts?
2nd while the car was running charging the battery I turned the dash lights on to check the charging. I noticed quite a bit of flickering in the interior lights. Does this sound more like a bad battery, or when I pull the plenum should I have the alternator checked out? Any thoughts? Thanks, John ![]() |
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#2 |
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Folsom CA
Posts: 1,657
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C4's are especially sensitive to low battery voltage.
If your battery is anywhere near it's expected lifetime, change it out. Clean & wire brush the battery terminals while you're in there. You shouldn't have any more troubles, but if you do, the next thing is to track down all the engine & chassis ground connections and clean them up. (you probably won't have to do this, just change the battery). Idlers make noise as they age/wear. When it gets noisy enough to bother you, change it out. As I recall, the pulley for our ZR1's is a little different than a LT1 or L98 but they still work. I'll have to dig through the archives, there was a thread about 6 months ago that detailed the differences and also where to buy them without breaking the bank. Good Luck! TomC 'Crabs Last edited by tccrab; 02-22-2010 at 08:51 PM. |
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#3 |
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I just got done with a car that had a consistent dead battery. It boiled down to somebody leaving a light on and running it down, and it then proceeded to kill the alternator. The alt would not charge a new battery period.
Do not neglect your battery |
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#4 |
![]() Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Florida
Posts: 240
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Years ago I had an '87 that would go through batterys and alternators about once a year. What I found was a bad switch for the passenger side power window up only. Whenever I tried to find a short I usually had the windows down and it would drive me carzy. If the car would sit for 3 or 4 days, dead battery. I only found it by mistake while working on something else.
Good luck! |
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#5 |
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Chicagoland, IL
Posts: 9,685
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#6 |
![]() Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Bartlett, IL
Posts: 7,157
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my 90 had a bearing type noise.. I replaced the pulley on the tensioner, it helped, but noise was still there. i noticed my tensioner was fluttering too, so i replaced it.
this was July 2009, I drove 1400 miles, then had to change the Water pump, due to a leak, found out the noise was the Water pump bearings, on the car i could not tell they were going, once off I could. then this December i replaced the Alt. bearings were bad on it too. now keep in mind when I got the car in 2007 is was too rough shape and had 60K miles. but it is possible your pump or Alt bearings might be going bad too
__________________
1990 Corvette ZR-1 #1051 Watson Headers (2" Primary) - Flowmaster Cats - Borla Catback Late Model IH - Plenum Coilovers - 4.10s Shelby Series 1 - Wilwood Brakes Custom Interior NCM Lifetime Member #978 |
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#7 | |
![]() Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Delanson, NY
Posts: 924
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Thanks to all for the advice. The noise is really not that bad, I just am trying to get the car ready for the gathering. Long ride from NY to BG, don't want any problems. I may change out the tensioner, I see one from Partsladi on E-Bay for $149.00. Is this about the right priice for one? They claim they are OEM GM and not reproductions. I am going to pull the alternator and can have it bench checked, maybe if it is a bearing it will show up. Maybe I should pack a WP for the trip to BG??? New FIC injectors, oil cooler lines and I may try to pull the shroud and see if there is debris in between the radiator and condensor. Any hints on doing that? Thanks in advance, John ![]() |
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#8 |
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Leesburg, VA
Posts: 2,704
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I think a battery charger would be a better way to charge it in the future, vs letting the car run. I believe that can be hard on the alternator.
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#9 |
![]() Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Bartlett, IL
Posts: 7,157
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I got my Tensioner from the Partsladi for that price.. as far as I know it is OEM
__________________
1990 Corvette ZR-1 #1051 Watson Headers (2" Primary) - Flowmaster Cats - Borla Catback Late Model IH - Plenum Coilovers - 4.10s Shelby Series 1 - Wilwood Brakes Custom Interior NCM Lifetime Member #978 |
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#10 | |
![]() Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Delanson, NY
Posts: 924
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I had to move the car to get it over to my 2 post lift so I wanted to run it for a little while. I read it was not a good idea to only run a ZR1 for a short time due to leakage by the valve stems into the crankcase so I let it run about 45 minutes. My concern was the fluctuation in the interior lights while it was running. I thought maybe I had a bad alternator bearing which was causing the wirling sound and the voltage flutter. I am going to pull it and have it bench tested. I agree with your comment, it was not my primary intent. Thanks, John ![]() |
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