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#1 |
![]() Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: PA
Posts: 770
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So I got my car inspected, and the mechanic told me I needed new rear shocks. Got 2 new Bilsteins delivered for $403. Thought I post the removal, for anybody that might be considering it. Was pretty easy. 1st I followed Cliff's Solutions to lift the Z onto 4 car jack stands w/ a couple of differences. First, I took the acrylic roof off and put the fiberglass one on. I feel the fiber is a little more structurally sound (maybe not, I'm no expert). I have 2 hydraulic jacks, so I used both (1 by each wheel) to jack up one side. It's slow and tedious, and probably not necessary, but I felt more comfotable doing it that way.
Lifted it without a hitch and removed the rear tire. Supported the knuckle with a hydraulic jack while it was on the stands Remove lower support nut (18mm)first, then remove 2 upper support bolts (13mm). Pull shock off lower support and carefully pull down on the shock to get the actuator out. Warning: Do not let the shock hang from the actuator unsupported. Pull the retaining pin out of the retainer cup, and gently work the actuator off the shock. Remove the retainer cup from the old shock. There's a 18mm nut inside the cup. Take notice of how far the adjustable gear protrudes past the cup. I used a pair of channel locks and socket wrench to remove nut. Attach retaining cup to new shock the same way you took it off. Make sure the new shock adjustable gear(not sure of technical name lol) protrudes the same distance from the cup as the old one (believe it is 5mm, but I don't own a metric tape measure). While supporting the shock, gently work the actuator back onto the retaining cup and reinstall retaining clip. Remember the actuator has a plastic gear, so don't force anything. Carefully slide the assembly back into upper support well, then slide bottom of the shock onto the lower support arm. I couldn't compress the shock and slide at the same time, so I used this to persuade it. Just kidding. I used a rubber mallot and gently tapped the shock back onto the the lower arm. Retighten lower nut(61ft/lbs), then the 2 upper support bolts(22 ft/lbs). Replace tire and repeat process on the other side. The shock I took off on the passenger side was completely shot, the driver side actually wasn't that bad. Oh well, anyway not sure if this is already in Solutions or not, hopefully it's helpful to someone like me. Actually had more images, but I could only post 6. While I had it up on the stands I changed the oil too. I think He-Man screwed the drain plug in. Busted my knuckles getting it off. Cheers. Last edited by vilant; 08-14-2012 at 04:59 PM. |
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#2 |
Banned
BANNED
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: MD
Posts: 3,674
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Joe
How long did it take you?? Looks awesome!! ![]() David |
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#3 |
![]() Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: PA
Posts: 770
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Only a couple of hours, was faster then the wiper motor change, lol. What happened to some of the images in this post?
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#4 |
![]() Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Lake Bluff, IL
Posts: 2,141
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I had the same problem with a picture image that didn't appear in my post about my new lift. Loaded all pics to an album on this site then copied four to the post. First one never appeared--only an X in a box. It's fine in the album. -- Bob
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2016 Long Beach Red Z06 #10281 "POPS Z" 1995 Polo Green #409 "WARP TEN"--Haibeck 350/510 package, 4.10s, Hurst, Stock Exhaust with QTP Cutouts --Sold but still running strong 1993 Quasar Blue #161 "HIL KING" --Sold but still running strong, now with more than 120,000 miles 1967 Marlboro Maroon/Saddle Corvette Coupe 300 hp/4-spd --Sold a long time ago ZR-1 Net Registry Founding Member #95 NCM Lifetime Member Favorite Quote--Attributed to Mickey Thompson: "Too Much Horsepower is Almost Enough" |
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#5 |
![]() Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: San Antonio area
Posts: 1,178
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By what criteria (or criterion) can a PA mechanic flunk an inspection for a bad shock?
eat mor chikin
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“Buy the best example of what you want, and pay whatever it takes. That way, you cry only once.” ~ Bruce Meyer |
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#6 | |
![]() Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: PA
Posts: 770
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#7 | |
![]() Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: PA
Posts: 770
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#8 | |
![]() Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: San Antonio area
Posts: 1,178
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A similar situation plagued me in NJ with my 67 - the brake pedal was always spongy, and the inspectors didn't like that very much. No amount of bleeding could fix it either. I finally gave up and sent Wifey to get the thing inspected - she always managed to talk them into a fresh sticker.
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“Buy the best example of what you want, and pay whatever it takes. That way, you cry only once.” ~ Bruce Meyer |
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#9 | |
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Location: PA
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#10 |
![]() Join Date: May 2010
Location: Japan
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Thanks for sharing and awesome write up with photos. Now I better get off my arse and do mine too.
Craig
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Craig "ZR-1 NO KA 'OI" "ZR-1 ICHIBAN" 1995 #228 Black/Black with Dunn Heads ZR-1 owner since September 2003 ZR-1 Net Registry Founding Member #0074 NCM Lifetime Member #2048 ![]() |
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