Valet key - power key problem

[gmofjoint]

I just bought my 1990 ZR1. 58K, black on black.
The problem is as follows:
When I turn the Valet key from normal to performance, I do not get a light on the dash. I cannot feel any difference in the power of the car. I put a snap-on scanner on the car and placed it into data and drivablity mode. The scanner indicates that the valet mode is "on". It says this no matter which position the key is in. When I trun the key, with scanner hooked up, it goes from on to off only between the positions and only for a brief second. I cannot even get it to stay off, its that sensative.
So, before I tear into this, i thought i would get some opinions.
Key switch? light bulb in dash out? (this doesnt explain it being on all the time with the scanner) Fuses?
Any ideas? Thanks in advance

[Aurora40]

Does the light ever come on when wiggling the valet key? If so, the bulb is fine. The bulb is lit by the ECM. So if it is not on, the car is not in full power mode regardless of the key position.

Most likely the key cylinder needs to be tweaked. But possibly there are codes stored that prevent the car from going into full power mode. The key cylinder is a simple switch, you can bend it back to working with some pliers once you open it up.

[gmofjoint]

The bulb never lights. The scanner indicates it is on while driving. There are no codes. I cleared all codes again just to make sure.

[Aurora40]

Does the car feel like it's in full power mode? Does it pull strongly past 5,000 RPM?

[gmofjoint]

yes, but is the first z i have driven. It feels pretty strong. I would think in low power (210hp) it wouldnt feel this strong.
I also own a 2003 C5 convertible, 6-speed. It feels fairly close.

[BOB HDZ]

here what i did. i bypass the switch by grounding the blue & white wire out of the green ecm connector then the light is always on! switch is then bypassed!

[BOB HDZ]

the blue & white wire from the ecm to ground! i ground mine to the frame were the hood release is!

[Aurora40]

Originally Posted by Paul Workman

that would make the bulb at the key switch even more suspect, I recon.

There is no bulb at the key switch on a 1990, instead it has the much cooler "Full Engine Power" bulb on the dummy light panel.

If the car pulls hard past 5,000, it sounds like your Full Engine Power bulb is burned out. So you need to fix that. Secondly, if the key switch doesn't turn the engine power down, it sounds like it's been bypassed or something.

[Aurora40]

Originally Posted by gmofjoint

yes, but is the first z i have driven. It feels pretty strong. I would think in low power (210hp) it wouldnt feel this strong.
I also own a 2003 C5 convertible, 6-speed. It feels fairly close.

Over 5 grand, there is no doubt. In "normal" mode the engine runs out of breath quickly above that, though it feels good to that point. It is very hard to run it up to much past that.

In "full power" mode, it will really wake up past 3,000 RPM, and continue to pull hard to about 6,500, at which point it gradually drops off. With a few mods, it will charge hard all the way to the rev limiter.

Here is my car on the dyno with the key on vs off (ported intake and headers):

[John Boothby]

What part of Utah do you live in? If southern part of the state maybe we can get together and I can look at it for you. Did a previous owner upgrade the chip with a "Full Power, full time" chip? Maybe he took out the "Full Power" bulb.