Header Bolt Battle - ZR-1 Net Registry Forums

LGAFF · 02-28-2010

Picking up from my last battle with a Mobile 1 oil filter....I am in the midst of a header install.....as the motor was pulled and rebuilt once, apparently the tech that did the headers must have mistaken the head torque specs with the head(er)......Several of these have taken a cheater to get them to move...having high miles the corrosion does not help.

Needless to say there was one bolt that decided it did not wish to depart. The bolt head rounded off when I used the cheater. Heat, bolt extractor socket, etc has not worked. Wondering if the next step is to get an angle grinder to either 1)cut off the bolt head 2)cut the bolt spacer to relieve some of the pressure. Its at least one of the easier bolts to get to.

Dynomite · 03-01-2010

So....I assume the headers are still on since the bolt head is still on

.......cut the head off (head only or round the head so you can get the heads off) and get the headers removed.

Then work on the bolt.......maybe a bit of heat or all sorts of other possible methods might help once you have the headers removed. With the headers removed you also have a bit more room to work. You do NOT want to break the bolt flush with the block....so heat might be your answere.

flyin ryan · 03-01-2010

Gay....PIA. Sorry buddy.

LGAFF · 03-01-2010

Just to be clear...these are the exhaust manifold bolts, whoever put this thing on went alittle overboard on the torque or corrision has seized them. Engine is in the car.

Dynomite · 03-01-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by LGAFF

Just to be clear...these are the exhaust manifold bolts, whoever put this thing on went alittle overboard on the torque or corrision has seized them. Engine is in the car.

I know...that is what I was referring to......exhaust headers....I called them heads as I was writing about Hockey for Ryan at the same time....

It would be kind of hard cutting the head of one of those head bolts for sure....

03-01-2010

If it is easy to get to, take a grinder and cut the head off, and either use vice grips to get the bolt out, or weld a new nut on and then remove.

LGAFF · 03-01-2010

Thanks Jeff......

Has anyone ever gotten one of these extractors(sockets) to work, only needed to try one a few times, but never gotten them to work.

03-01-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by LGAFF

Thanks Jeff......

Has anyone ever gotten one of these extractors(sockets) to work, only needed to try one a few times, but never gotten them to work.

They are hit or miss, by the time they are really rounded off, the extractors don't work as well.

Dynomite · 03-01-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeffvette

If it is easy to get to, take a grinder and cut the head off, and either use vice grips to get the bolt out, or weld a new nut on and then remove.

I prefer vice grips and heat as I have never had any luck welding on a new nut especially in a tight space......nut always broke off again and again.....

flyin ryan · 03-01-2010

The liquid wrench is always good. Can try some penetrating oil first if you haven't yet, even though 'Uphill' it will find it's way up into the threads a certain amount at least, can't hurt to try if you don't have bottles handy.

02-28-2010	#1
LGAFF Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Crystal Lake, IL Posts: 7,180	Header Bolt Battle Picking up from my last battle with a Mobile 1 oil filter....I am in the midst of a header install.....as the motor was pulled and rebuilt once, apparently the tech that did the headers must have mistaken the head torque specs with the head(er)......Several of these have taken a cheater to get them to move...having high miles the corrosion does not help. Needless to say there was one bolt that decided it did not wish to depart. The bolt head rounded off when I used the cheater. Heat, bolt extractor socket, etc has not worked. Wondering if the next step is to get an angle grinder to either 1)cut off the bolt head 2)cut the bolt spacer to relieve some of the pressure. Its at least one of the easier bolts to get to. __________________ LGAFF 90 #966-150K miles-sold 92 #234-sold 1987 Callaway TT #17 1991 ZR-1 #1359

03-01-2010	#2
Dynomite Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: South Dakota/California Posts: 3,816	Re: Header Bolt Battle So....I assume the headers are still on since the bolt head is still on .......cut the head off (head only or round the head so you can get the heads off) and get the headers removed. Then work on the bolt.......maybe a bit of heat or all sorts of other possible methods might help once you have the headers removed. With the headers removed you also have a bit more room to work. You do NOT want to break the bolt flush with the block....so heat might be your answere. Last edited by Dynomite; 03-01-2010 at 12:18 AM.

03-01-2010	#3
flyin ryan Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Edmonton, Alberta or Phoenix, Arizona Posts: 2,736	Re: Header Bolt Battle Gay....PIA. Sorry buddy.

03-01-2010	#4
LGAFF Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Crystal Lake, IL Posts: 7,180	Re: Header Bolt Battle Just to be clear...these are the exhaust manifold bolts, whoever put this thing on went alittle overboard on the torque or corrision has seized them. Engine is in the car. __________________ LGAFF 90 #966-150K miles-sold 92 #234-sold 1987 Callaway TT #17 1991 ZR-1 #1359

03-01-2010	#6
Jeffvette Guest Posts: n/a	Re: Header Bolt Battle If it is easy to get to, take a grinder and cut the head off, and either use vice grips to get the bolt out, or weld a new nut on and then remove.

03-01-2010	#7
LGAFF Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Crystal Lake, IL Posts: 7,180	Re: Header Bolt Battle Thanks Jeff...... Has anyone ever gotten one of these extractors(sockets) to work, only needed to try one a few times, but never gotten them to work. __________________ LGAFF 90 #966-150K miles-sold 92 #234-sold 1987 Callaway TT #17 1991 ZR-1 #1359

03-01-2010	#10
flyin ryan Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Edmonton, Alberta or Phoenix, Arizona Posts: 2,736	Re: Header Bolt Battle The liquid wrench is always good. Can try some penetrating oil first if you haven't yet, even though 'Uphill' it will find it's way up into the threads a certain amount at least, can't hurt to try if you don't have bottles handy.