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#1 |
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Homestead, Fl
Posts: 247
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I guess the big question is what's it worth as it sits?
Between a rock and a hard place. What a shame..Never expected to lose a bearing or piston on the lt5. So, buying it with mileage seemed only a problem for resale, which I didn't intend to do....but now I have to reconsider my options...fix or sell. Here's some details. It has 135k miles, has a running but probably needs (short block) engine, interior in great condition at least a 7.5 or 8/10 (since 9 is virtually perfect in almost every way right) and with a 20 foot paint job done by the PO. All the bugs worked out of it until this latest problem...a great driver, drives straight, brakes hard, corners like it's on rails, one listed accident which I can find no real evidence of, even when I had the carpet out. The guy I bought it from said it drove like a 30k mile car..He was right, it did ride like one, just didn't run like one at the time....I fixed that...for a while anyway. Now, I really hate to part this car out.. It is just too squared away, even with all the mileage on it. But by the time I put a short block in it, it will still need a paint job to look as proud as it should be, and it seems I'd be already close to one with much lower mileage in this buyer's market. I hate this dilemma. But by the same time, I'd love an almost pristine ZR1 as much as I love my own and then some!!! right? Makes me sick to think of all the things I did, money I spent. 93 wheels, new steering wheel PC plenum/IH's and cam covers, water passages, Along with the haibeck chip for modified engines with spt's removed, jvc stereo/navigation, amplifier etc etc. UGH. The last thing I expected was a bearing failure so it was my intention to keepp it...but now.. I'm not so sure. Any advice? |
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#2 |
![]() ![]() Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: South Dakota/California
Posts: 3,816
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Buy a nice ZR-1 with maybe 50K-75K miles in good condition but not worked on much. Then switch all you good stuff to that one. Then part out or sell what is left. You will at least know you are not giving away your improvements.
I had a disaster on a 90' (L98) and kept it for parts for a ZR-1......I then bought a nice ZR1 with some small issues (great price) that needed some of those parts. Made Lemonade out of Lemons as the say ![]() Or......pull the engine and find out exactly what went wrong.....(130K miles is a bit of mileage) and if you have to start with a nice short block like Pete suggests.
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Clickable links ![]() On Iphone Touchable Links -Solutions- LT5 Modifications/Rebuild Tricks Low Mileage ZR-1 Restoration 1990 Corvette (L98) Modifications LT5 Eliminated Systems LT5 Added Systems LT5/ZR-1 Fluids 1995 LT5 SPECIFIC TOP END REBUILD TRICKS Last edited by Dynomite; 11-11-2013 at 12:20 PM. |
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#3 |
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Spring TX
Posts: 1,341
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probably doesn't actually need a short block. Maybe new liners and piston rings, gaskets, labor etc.
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#4 |
![]() ![]() Join Date: May 2007
Location: Peoria, AZ
Posts: 9,117
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Talk to Kurt White he's had an engine exchange program... Well at least he did last year his handle is Limey and he lives in Florida
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GOLDCYLON - 91 ZR-1 #2014 GOLDCYLON - 90 ZR-1 #2794, 4L60e (Formerly Schrade's) GOLDCYLON - 11 CTS-V Arizona State Director ![]() 91 WHITE/BLACK #2014. 380 P&P&PCed,Ported Heads, Jeal Long tubes, Corsa Exhaust/FIKSE FM-5s /LED TLs, LED Headlights, Front Wilwood 6 piston narrowlite calipers and rear Wilwood caliper street shop mod,CNCed Coolant Pipes,TPI Cvr,Filter cover,Stainless Bolts, DRM/DOM PROM /ZFDOC mod build #102,DRLs,BMAD with stainless Debris Screen,Coplan Air Blaster, Pioneer APP Radio 4,Brey-Krause HB,Sub Bar,Fire extinguisher seat mount,DRM Coilovers,LEDs everywhere,Compass mirror (orange),V1 DIC hidden display, Homelink sun visor, Carbon Fiber top x3 and APSIS Carbon Fiber interior, APSIS CF Steering Wheel/NAPA Leather, Banski trailing arms, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension) ZFDoc drive shaft safety loop, raptor shift light (orange),AO engineering louver front plate, Console seat cushion, 96CE seats with black custom Sheepskins, ss billet catch can,Viper remote entry/alarm,Cragar Rear Louvers,LED side louver lights, Dewitts Radiator with SPAL fans and a Woods 160 T-Stat 90 RED/BLACK #2794. 4L60e Automatic Stage V by RPM Transmission, TCI Dedicated TCM, OBX Stainless Headers, Corsa Exhaust, SAN Secondaries and Haibeck PROM, Exotic Muscle Coil overs, LED Interior Lights, LED Tail Lights, LED Headlights, 94 Sport seats with black custom Sheepskins , Cragar rear louvers, GS Front calipers, Banski Trailing arms, APSIS Carbon Fiber steering wheel, Front and Rear Baer Eradispeeds, DRLs, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension), Dewitt's Raditor with Dual SPAL fans and a Haibeck 170 T-Stat 11 RED/GREY CTS-V |
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#5 |
![]() Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Arcadia, OK
Posts: 3,401
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I recommend that you be sure you have a bearing problem before going into the engine or selling the Zee under that assumption.
DM flywheels can make a noise at idle that sounds very much like a rod knock. There are however, ways to tell the difference. 1. Flywheel knock goes away with higher rpm, a rod knock does not. Increase rpm to 1500 rpm & hold steady. A rod knock will get quieter or even go away under load, either accelerating or decelerating. Neutral, park brake on, increase from idle to 1500 rpm & hold steady. If it's a rod knock, it will still be present when you hold rpm steady, the flywheel sound will not. Another option, should it turn out to be a loose rod bearing. Odds are very much in your favor that the crank will be undamaged. If the bearing has NOT spun, you can probably just replace the rod bearing(s) without removing the engine. I say bearing(s) because you can do all 8 of them from under the car. A set of 8 rod bearings is $40 and a pan gasket w/seal is $75. You owe it to yourself to be sure. If you're not feeling capable, trailer it up to Aaron Scott/South Georgia Corvette in Thomasville, GA. he will be able to tell you for certain. Bearings will show some wear, but normally are no where near knocking from wear @ 135,000.
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Jerry Downey JERRYS LT5 GASKETS & PARTS http://www.jerrysgaskets.com 1994 ZR-1, Black/Black, Lingenfelter Aerobody, 416cu in, 3.91 gears, coil-over susp, Brembo brakes, etc. 2016 Black-Red, 3LT-Z51 Auto 8-speed. |
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#6 |
![]() Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Crystal Lake, IL
Posts: 7,180
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LGAFF 90 #966-150K miles-sold 92 #234-sold 1987 Callaway TT #17 1991 ZR-1 #1359 |
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#7 |
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Homestead, Fl
Posts: 247
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At this point there's no harm and minimal amount of work to get the pan back down since I haven't put the cross members back in yet. Can the rod bearings be changed without pulling the girdle? It's been a while since I had it down, but I dont recall there being a lot of room. I'm not afraid to do any of the work, I got nothing (not much) to loose, but right now I have a running engine..(badly running), but I just don't want to get it all taken apart, find out the bearing is spun then what...lots more money to spend..and on a car that money might have been better spent recouping at salvage price and putting into one with less miles and in better overall condition.
Consider this, there is one on ebay right now for 17900. Chances are it can be had for 17, Even if I parted mine out I could prob get 5 leaving me with only about 12k for a pretty nice looking car with far lower mileage (40k) and it's only 5 hours from me. Though he says it was bumped in the front, fixed and the windshield wipers hit the hood. anyway, I know I'm rambling. |
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#8 |
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Homestead, Fl
Posts: 247
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Jerry, I didn't even think of that, forgetting that the engine in the car is at least worth something toward an exchange or outright sale to someone .. I know I have seen heads alone go for (asking for) about half as much as I can get for the rolling chassis on e bay.
Thanks for all the support guys. sam |
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#9 |
![]() Join Date: May 2011
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 2,466
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I sent you my cell phone number give me a call and we can talk about getting you my short block.
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#10 |
![]() Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Lake Bluff, IL
Posts: 2,143
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Hi Sam--
I have to agree with Jerry--it certainly makes sense to think about hauling it up to Aaron at SGC. At the very least why not give him a call and talk about it. I am sure he will try to help. Before you make a big decision good idea to have an expert at least do a diagnosis. Good luck!! - Bob
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2016 Long Beach Red Z06 #10281 "POPS Z" 1995 Polo Green #409 "WARP TEN"--Haibeck 350/510 package, 4.10s, Hurst, Stock Exhaust with QTP Cutouts --Sold but still running strong 1993 Quasar Blue #161 "HIL KING" --Sold but still running strong, now with more than 120,000 miles 1967 Marlboro Maroon/Saddle Corvette Coupe 300 hp/4-spd --Sold a long time ago ZR-1 Net Registry Founding Member #95 NCM Lifetime Member Favorite Quote--Attributed to Mickey Thompson: "Too Much Horsepower is Almost Enough" Last edited by WARP TEN; 11-12-2013 at 12:40 PM. |
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