Anyone got a schematic of oil flow?

[Schrade]

Title asks it all here guys - does anyone have this? Cliff? Is it in FSM anywhere here?

EDIT (from FSM; thanks there Bill):

[geezer]

Chuck : FSM --6A2-13&14. If you don't have it I can email it to you.

Bill

[Schrade]

Originally Posted by geezer

Chuck : FSM --6A2-13&14. If you don't have it I can email it to you.

Bill

Thanks there Sir; I can dig it up here from FSM then...

Working on oil change - and thinking on oil that remains after drain.

I put the Shop-Vac on the filter port, like when doing coolant change; THAT seems to pull coolant to where it will allow a little more to drain. Not so with LT5 here - didn't produce ANY more at all.

So I put in some Advance House brand Synthetic, ran it :15, and drained THAT. Now the real stuff.

Probably ought to do the 'drill n tap' to the oil cooler, to get the rest, but that will be a back burner project.

And THANKS AGAIN for the Owner's Manual there Bill! I'll return that favor sometime SOMEhow here!!!

...and can't forget Steve [WeGone] for the CD and Bearly Flying too for the TB screws. Can't forget those kind of favors! Thanks guys.

[Dynomite]

LT5 Engine and Differential Lubrication Discussion

1. Oil Filter Adapter Functions are discussed in some detail with photos of components of the Oil Filter Adapter.

See Engine Lubrication System Functional Discussion

See Also Tech Info - LT5 Pressure Drop In Oil Lines Calculations





2. Changing Engine Oil.

Originally Posted by Schrade

Working on oil change - and thinking on oil that remains after drain.

Just spin on a new Oil Filter (after you have changed oil) and fire it up

I do not concern myself with Oil Not Drained.....as I will get most of that next oil change and more of the older oil after the next next oil change
See Changing Engine Oil

I doubt the engine will suffer at all from running a bit of old old old oil that takes several oil changes to remove.

3. Changing Differential Fluid.
Now on the Differential....... I did add the differential drain plug for the simple reason that NEW Removable Plug is at the bottom of the Differential and much easier to get any contaminants that settle removed by gravity vice sucking wherein you might not be sure where you are sucking from exactly.

See Item #4 LT5 Added Systems

[Schrade]

Got it Cliff; thanks there.

But I need another shot of the 4 products on the Z's back end there - mind obligin' there?


ed.:
And how do you guys pre-load the filter? Fill it and drain? Then screw on??? Don't even bother?

[Tyler Townsley]

Existing diagrams do not include all sensors ie idiot light sensor is not shown in any of the diagrams I have seen.

Tyler

[Schrade]

Originally Posted by Tyler Townsley

Existing diagrams do not include all sensors ie idiot light sensor is not shown in any of the diagrams I have seen.

Tyler

Thanks there...

Cliff - Black out the taillight louvres, to match up color with 'CORVETTE'.

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by Schrade

Working on oil change - and thinking on oil that remains after drain.

Just spin on a new Oil Filter (after you have changed oil) and fire it up

I do not concern myself with Oil Not Drained.....as I will get most of that next oil change and more of the older oil after the next next oil change
See Changing Engine Oil

I doubt the engine will suffer at all from running a bit of old old old oil that takes several oil changes to remove.

Now on the Differential....... I did add the differential drain plug for the simple reason that NEW Removable Plug is at the bottom of the Differential and much easier to get any contaminants that settle removed by gravity vice sucking wherein you might not be sure where you are sucking from exactly.

See Item #4 LT5 Added Systems

[Paul Workman]

A lot about nothing? Synthetic oil in a "weekend", street-driven car is going to be good for 7.5 to 10k or even as high as 15k miles between changes*, according to some, and keep in mind the LT5 w/ cooler holds about 12 quarts!

Two points:

1. First, the ≈ 12 qt. LT5 oil capacity was established in the late 80s before wide spread availability of synthetic oil for automotive use. So, with the use of modern synthetic (like AMSOIL AMO 10W-40) the combination of large capacity and synthetic characteristics extends the practical change interval significantly.
   
2. Second, with that in mind, assuming one can drain about 10.5 qt. over night, then that leaves only ≈ 12.5% of the old oil in there to mix with the new, and if you're like me and change at about the 6k point (or every other season, which ever is first) there is NO insignificant advantage or need to be concerned about that remaining 1.5 or so quarts.

As for pre-loading the filter, think about it: The filters recommended for the LT5 have a valve in them specifically to keep the filter pre-loaded to reduce zero oil pressure time while cranking/starting. Seems logical to me the focus might better be put on pre-loading the new filter and less on worrying about draining the last quart or two of oil (which is likely waaaay under utilize in the first place) that makes up only a small percentage of the total oil fill.

JMO...


* http://www.edmunds.com/car-care/stop...-your-oil.html

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by Paul Workman

As for pre-loading the filter, think about it: The filters recommended for the LT5 have a valve in them specifically to keep the filter pre-loaded to reduce zero oil pressure time while cranking/starting. Seems logical to me the focus might better be put on pre-loading the new filter and less on worrying about draining the last quart or two of oil (which is likely waaaay under utilize in the first place) that makes up only a small percentage of the total oil fill.

JMO...

Marc Discussion of Anti Drain Back on several Oil Filters

Marc suggests the M1-207 oil filter retains 4 oz of oil at 8 hours which adds up to 1.4 sec (1.4 seconds on new EMPTY Oil Filter) to oil pressure start up time

Where I am coming from, it takes longer than 1.4 seconds to build oil pressure replacing all that oil that has leaked back from all the oil locations in the LT5 engine sitting higher than the oil level in the oil pan....no matter if your oil filter retains oil or not

And I like the fact that when I remove the M1-207 oil filter after letting the engine sit overnight there is absolutely NO oil spill and I further notice the oil sitting in the top of the Oil Filter Adapter has also leaked back. Now using a anti-leak back oil filter would probably keep that oil from draining back causing a lot of mess when changing oil filters............A very small price to pay for an additional 1.4 sec of chain rattle which does not harm the engine.

I might further add......most engine Oil Filters sit right side up which may sit full of oil (unlike the LT5) . When you change oil filters, however, the NEW Oil Filter is empty on start up (I know of no one prefilling oil filters causing a mess especially for oil filters sitting at an angle)

Further.....changing the normal oil filter that sits right side up is always a mess when you unscrew the Oil Filter with oil dripping down the sides of the oil filter unless you have let the engine sit for a long while. That is a benefit changing Oil Filter on the LT5 which Oil Filter is nearly empty and absolutely NO OIL SPILLAGE if you let the engine sit overnight before changing Oil Filter.