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#1 |
![]() Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Crystal Lake, IL
Posts: 7,180
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LGAFF 90 #966-150K miles-sold 92 #234-sold 1987 Callaway TT #17 1991 ZR-1 #1359 |
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#2 |
![]() Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Crystal Lake, IL
Posts: 7,180
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You need....
took about an hour.... 10MM socket 13MM Socket 13MM line wrench 7MM Socket Phillips Screwdriver(small) Extensions Torx head set up to 30 Torx
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LGAFF 90 #966-150K miles-sold 92 #234-sold 1987 Callaway TT #17 1991 ZR-1 #1359 |
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#3 |
![]() Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Crystal Lake, IL
Posts: 7,180
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*Loosen the 10mm nuts on the ECM....place to the side..
Master is under the ECM *Remove the ECM bracket: unbolt the 10MM bolt to the cross brace, unplug the MAP sensor ![]() *Remove the battery (Torx heads and 10MM socket to lower fender/battery cover) 13mm for hold down behind battery(don't forget the 10mm bolt on the top of the panel....its covered by a piece of weatherstripping) ![]() This will allow access to the master
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LGAFF 90 #966-150K miles-sold 92 #234-sold 1987 Callaway TT #17 1991 ZR-1 #1359 Last edited by LGAFF; 08-19-2014 at 07:20 AM. |
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#4 |
![]() Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Crystal Lake, IL
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The Master is held on with two 13mm bolts that feed through the fire wall....
First remove the hydraulic line from the master The outside bolt is easy to access with the battery removed The second you will need to feed a few extensions with a swivel through to get to the bolt.. ![]() ![]()
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LGAFF 90 #966-150K miles-sold 92 #234-sold 1987 Callaway TT #17 1991 ZR-1 #1359 |
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#5 |
![]() Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Crystal Lake, IL
Posts: 7,180
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inside the car, remove the lower panel
Two 7mm bolts on the front ![]() Two screws on the side....and some underneath ![]()
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LGAFF 90 #966-150K miles-sold 92 #234-sold 1987 Callaway TT #17 1991 ZR-1 #1359 |
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#6 |
![]() Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Crystal Lake, IL
Posts: 7,180
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Once inside slide under the panel with a light....to the upper left you will see the master, the only thing holding it on is a clip
![]() The clip is difficult to remove and put on....however its easy if you use a flat blade screw driver to gently open it while pulling it back ![]() Master is out...reverse the process....add fluid pump clutch bleed. Not bad!
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LGAFF 90 #966-150K miles-sold 92 #234-sold 1987 Callaway TT #17 1991 ZR-1 #1359 |
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#7 |
![]() Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Squires (near Ava MO in the Mark Twain N'tl Forest) - Missouri
Posts: 6,466
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Excellent writeup, Lee!
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#8 |
![]() Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Alex VA
Posts: 1,080
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anybody have some of those *&^%$#@!!! clips laying around. when I replaced the master on the LSV mine was taken by the goat legged bastard
all I heard was a little "ting" when I didn't quite get it on there right the other thing "stange" to me is that the stock part had a "spacer" and the replacement master has that cast into the base of the part my replacement has a noticeably different feel to it (not really as good as the stock one) I'm tempted to rebuild the stocker and put it back on. |
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#9 | |
![]() Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Alexandria, Virginia
Posts: 1,453
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![]() Quote:
Send you stock one to Jim Janik, he will rebuild it good as new!! Rich
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#10 |
![]() Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Crystal Lake, IL
Posts: 7,180
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LGAFF 90 #966-150K miles-sold 92 #234-sold 1987 Callaway TT #17 1991 ZR-1 #1359 |
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