I think I?m in deep 💩

[Starman]

Try pulling the CTSY fuse, top left to reset VATS.


Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry

[XfireZ51]

Jeff, does ur reprogramming also allow changing the black on orange to white on black for the LCD display?

[-=Jeff=-]

Originally Posted by XfireZ51

Jeff, does ur reprogramming also allow changing the black on orange to white on black for the LCD display?

not for that you need the reverse polarized kit from Batee, then you need a white backing to swap from the orange


EDIT..

you would need this:
https://batee.com/collections/1990-1...rt-kit-for-lcd


and like this but not orange
https://batee.com/collections/1990-1...42570426843291

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Wow Jeff! You are da man and good to know this. What can?t you do? Awesome.


Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry

[XfireZ51]

Originally Posted by -=Jeff=-

not for that you need the reverse polarized kit from Batee, then you need a white backing to swap from the orange


EDIT..

you would need this:
https://batee.com/collections/1990-1...rt-kit-for-lcd


and like this but not orange
https://batee.com/collections/1990-1...42570426843291

Seems like they?re out of stock on the LCD filter. Let?s chat pizza night.

[rush91]

Originally Posted by JT_n_CT_90_ZR1

UPDATE: JEFF reprogrammed a ECM I ordered online and sent both to him. The one he programmed works fantastic! Everything is communicating ETC. Recommend his services.

On that note, we are running down the list here. Still no crank, I am ordering an ignition switch as we speak and new battery cables just in case. Any other Ideas? And yes it?s a Brand new oversized 1000 CCA battery. vatts? Advice?

Is the car cranking or do you turn the key and nothing? If it's cranking but won't start it could be your fuel pumps......

When you turn the ignition on BUT don't start the car, you should hear the pumps in the tank priming.

[JT_n_CT_90_ZR1]

I was thinking that also. However I did just replace the BCM and for what I?ve been reading I have to get the ECM and BCM to communicate which unfortunately are not. I am getting ERR when jump 1&2. So in a nutshell, I think I have a short with the communication wires. I have a feeling I?m going to have to take the whole dash off to find this short or at the very least why it?s not communicating.
Jeff did a fantastic job reprogramming my BCM and my ECM is brand new with my original EPROM.
As we speak I have the ABS module and that section in the back apart seeing if there is anything wrong with the wiring or modules.
There is something electrically wrong because my old BCM had chips completely burnt up. Several of them.
I have a 1966 427 I have that needs some love too so I am just trying to get the 90 Z in at least drivable condition just in case I need to bring her somewhere for another set of eyes to checkout. Unfortunately I am just a normal guy with a normal paycheck so whatever I can do myself is key.

[RSLyrick]

Hey,

what makes you think that the ECM and CCM password exchange routine fails ?

If the FEDS is failing (Fuel Enable System), so this password exchange between the modules, you should get a DTC 54. Security lamp and SYS will also flash. Is this the case ? DTC 41 may be set as well .

If this safe communication fails, the fuel pumps are normally still getting primed but you will get no fuel injection so no start. Do you hear them running after ignition ?

Refer to 8D-62 for more details (about DTC 54) and 8D-54 (about DTC 41)

Do all the DIC classic bulbs light up after ignition before cranking ? (especially the SES light)

If you want to check the communication wires (UART), no need to dismantle the whole dash at the moment.

- Battery connected : check with a multimeter if you get 5V in the DLC (diagnostic) port at pin M, with ignition ON.

To check the second UART wire, same procedure, it could be probed at the back of the ECM (D15 and D20), same expected voltage value around 5V with key in ignition position.

That should help you check if you have a short to GND or 12V or something else.

For an open wire issue, it would be better to disconnect the battery, the ECM harness and CCM harness as well and do a continuity test with your multimeter between the ECM harness and CCM harness connectors.

You have to do this because two other modules (ABS, C68) are connected on this bus and they have all have (possibly) the capability to pull it to 5V, so you need to isolate the connection to these modules.