Normally, BOTH pumps run when the engine is first started, but if the FULL POWER mode is not activated, the secondary pump cuts off after 5 or so minutes. A fuel pressure ~ 45 psi and then dropping to zero at the moment the engine fails suggests the primary fuel pump has failed. Check the fuse(s) first (if you haven't already).
Kinda late to the party, but an easy way to "wring out" the fuel pumps is measure the current @ the fuel pump diagnostic connector.
Each pump normally draws 4-5 amperes for a total of 8-10 Amps with the ignition switch in the OFF position.
Place a fuel pressure pump on the fuel rail (to verify pressure later)
Place your VOM (red) jumper in the Amps position (see pic) and
IMPORTANT! turn the switch to "A" (Amps)
BEFORE making further steps/measurements. (Otherwise, you may damage the meter at worst, or blow the internal fuse at the least!)
Connect the
(properly configured) meter between the fuel pump diagnostic test point (the little wire with a connector attached, jutting out of the wire loom (about an inch) by the windshield wiper motor, and the
POSITIVE terminal of the battery.
If the reading is 8-10 Amps, and you can hear the pumps running, you will know that both pumps are running, verified by the pressure gauge attached to the fuel rail. But, if the reading is 4 or 5 amps, then one of the pumps is not running. (At that point, since the engine ran for several (7?) minutes before quitting, we can assume the secondary pump is running normally and the primary pump has failed.)
IMPORTANT! Soon as you're finished measuring current, remove the meter from the circuit and reconfigure the jumpers to reading VOLTS and switch the meter OFF or to another test scale. FAILURE to do so is the primary reason for a blown fuse inside the meter!
The first pic shows moving the (red) lead to the "A" (ampere) position, and the meter dial selection on the 10 Amps position.
The second pic shows a normal reading of 8.74 amperes for BOTH pumps (8-10 amps is normal, varying depending on which pumps are installed).
The 3rd pic show the little red wire sticking out of the wire loom close to the wiper motor. (pardon the yellow jumper wire connecting the black lead of the meter to the test connector at the wire loom).