ZR-1 Net Registry Forums - View Single Post

ram_g · 08-19-2020

Vanvan, I am by no means an expert as I am just learning about my own ZR-1 that I recently acquired. However there are a couple of things I'd like to point out.
- I am not sure why you are assuming that the secondary air intake flaps are in the open position just because the vacuum system was deleted. Did someone confirm to you that they wired open the secondaries or fully deleted the hardware? Seems to me that you need to check this somehow - probably by pulling the plenum (get Marc Haibeck's explanatory DVD before you do this). If your secondary air intakes are not opening via vacuum as they were designed, or wired in the open position, then it doesn't matter what the secondary pump does.
- There is a way to check if both pumps are working by checking the amps (NOT volts) when you ground the fuel pump test wire (single wire and connector near the ECU). If both pumps are working you should observe 8-10 amps, if memory serves. If you have half of this, only one pump is working.
- I agree with the observation that the chip looks a bit odd.

08-19-2020	#5
ram_g Join Date: Jun 2020 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 183	Re: Secondary fuel pump and chip problem Vanvan, I am by no means an expert as I am just learning about my own ZR-1 that I recently acquired. However there are a couple of things I'd like to point out. - I am not sure why you are assuming that the secondary air intake flaps are in the open position just because the vacuum system was deleted. Did someone confirm to you that they wired open the secondaries or fully deleted the hardware? Seems to me that you need to check this somehow - probably by pulling the plenum (get Marc Haibeck's explanatory DVD before you do this). If your secondary air intakes are not opening via vacuum as they were designed, or wired in the open position, then it doesn't matter what the secondary pump does. - There is a way to check if both pumps are working by checking the amps (NOT volts) when you ground the fuel pump test wire (single wire and connector near the ECU). If both pumps are working you should observe 8-10 amps, if memory serves. If you have half of this, only one pump is working. - I agree with the observation that the chip looks a bit odd.