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Paul Workman · 09-25-2015

Just mulling this a little bit...

There are several ways that come to mind, depending on the MY. The 90s would be a little more complicated, but the later models would be quite easy.

The 90s switch (RED BUTTON) would work if the button itself were actually a sequential "ON-OFF" mechanical type; essentially performing the duties of the existing key-activated switch (to sustain the completed circuit). Or, the sequencing could be toggled electronically (solid state).

The later (91+ MY) could be done with a momentary "ON" button - in parallel with the existing dash key-switch "ON" switch mode.

I'll take Steve's word for it when he says the manual doesn't recommend switching to FULL POWER (switching from NORMAL to FULL POWER) above 4000 rpm: outside the discussion anyway, but there must be a reason.

Added resistance by adding a switch would be negligible - a non-issue. And, there wouldn't be any additional concern of inductive voltage spikes unless inductive reactant components are somehow included in the latching circuit for some reason.

But! Besides all that... until the operating conditions were met, the secondaries wouldn't be signaled on by the ECM, anyway; button or no. And, once up to temperature, the engine is still under the control of the throttle body...button or no.

So, to me (at the risk of being obtuse), such a button seems so unnecessary to the point of being silly, especially if the car is modded (as many are) to run w/ the secondaries on full time already. (The secondaries are on essentially full time, so what is the RED BUTTON to do?)

...Just sayin.

09-25-2015	#5
Paul Workman Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Squires (near Ava MO in the Mark Twain N'tl Forest) - Missouri Posts: 6,466	Re: Silly power key question Just mulling this a little bit... There are several ways that come to mind, depending on the MY. The 90s would be a little more complicated, but the later models would be quite easy. The 90s switch (RED BUTTON) would work if the button itself were actually a sequential "ON-OFF" mechanical type; essentially performing the duties of the existing key-activated switch (to sustain the completed circuit). Or, the sequencing could be toggled electronically (solid state). The later (91+ MY) could be done with a momentary "ON" button - in parallel with the existing dash key-switch "ON" switch mode. I'll take Steve's word for it when he says the manual doesn't recommend switching to FULL POWER (switching from NORMAL to FULL POWER) above 4000 rpm: outside the discussion anyway, but there must be a reason. Added resistance by adding a switch would be negligible - a non-issue. And, there wouldn't be any additional concern of inductive voltage spikes unless inductive reactant components are somehow included in the latching circuit for some reason. *But! Besides all that...* until the operating conditions were met, the secondaries wouldn't be signaled on by the ECM, anyway; button or no. And, once up to temperature, the engine is still under the control of the throttle body...button or no. So, to me (at the risk of being obtuse), such a button seems so unnecessary to the point of being silly, especially if the car is modded (as many are) to run w/ the secondaries on full time already. (The secondaries are on essentially full time, so what is the RED BUTTON to do?) ...Just sayin.