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Paul Workman · 08-07-2014

BTDT in the past.

No need to drain the entire tank. Besides, the ZR-1 fuel pumps pickup will not scavenge the bare bottom of the tank anyway. So, I too was able to get the water out, as you say, with the help of some "Heat" (aka, alcohol based fuel antifreeze) - as a second step. But, first try siphoning the fuel/water from the bottom after first tipping the car to one side (by jack one side, or driving the car up on blocks on one side in order to tip the car/tank so that the water will concentrate to the side and be easier to collect near the edge of the tank).

You'll have to allow 5 minutes or so for the solution to settle. Then, remove the fuel pump assembly in order to steer the siphon hose to the low-side edge of the tank. I find it helps to have a large clear jar to catch the siphoned liquid so that it can be easily examined to determine when most of the water is removed (one of those glass gallon "sun tea" jars works well, I find).

Once the bulk of the water is removed, a can of that HEAT will absorb the remainder of the water. Then, you can concentrate on how the water got in there: e.g., is the gas cap sealing?

Oh, and don't forget to run the pumps (energizing the pumps at the test connector, ignition switch OFF) to purge the fuel rail! Short of removing the twin fuel rails, I don't know how you'd purge the driver-side rail, short of removing the rails. But, with at least one side purged, I would think the motor would start and and run well enough to quickly self-purge the driver side rail.

Paul.

08-07-2014	#3
Paul Workman Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Squires (near Ava MO in the Mark Twain N'tl Forest) - Missouri Posts: 6,466	Re: Fuel tank geometry [water in fuel]... BTDT in the past. No need to drain the entire tank. Besides, the ZR-1 fuel pumps pickup will not scavenge the bare bottom of the tank anyway. So, I too was able to get the water out, as you say, with the help of some "Heat" (aka, alcohol based fuel antifreeze) - as a second step. But, first try siphoning the fuel/water from the bottom after first tipping the car to one side (by jack one side, or driving the car up on blocks on one side in order to tip the car/tank so that the water will concentrate to the side and be easier to collect near the edge of the tank). You'll have to allow 5 minutes or so for the solution to settle. Then, remove the fuel pump assembly in order to steer the siphon hose to the low-side edge of the tank. I find it helps to have a large clear jar to catch the siphoned liquid so that it can be easily examined to determine when most of the water is removed (one of those glass gallon "sun tea" jars works well, I find). Once the bulk of the water is removed, a can of that HEAT will absorb the remainder of the water. Then, you can concentrate on how the water got in there: e.g., is the gas cap sealing? Oh, and don't forget to run the pumps (energizing the pumps at the test connector, ignition switch OFF) to purge the fuel rail! Short of removing the twin fuel rails, I don't know how you'd purge the driver-side rail, short of removing the rails. But, with at least one side purged, I would think the motor would start and and run well enough to quickly self-purge the driver side rail. Paul.