Quote:
Originally Posted by xlr8nflorida
keep the mice out of vehicle and engine with BOUNCE 
DECON IN SHEDS WHERE THERE ARE NO PETS AROUND OR HIDE THE DECON WHERE ONLY MICE CAN FIND
Not doing disagree but in my experience these are old wives tales.
I put one of my Vettes to sleep in a warehouse, The rats/mice ate a full try of Decon and they took my Bounce Sheets and made a bed underneath the ECM Computer in 2 days - True story.
I decided to sell that car rather than store it. |
I agree on the Decon. Empty Decon tray, and turquoise (Decon colored) turds scattered around the console and on top of the engine told me that stuff was not going to do the job. A feed store owner recommended "One Bite" instead. I had a serious infestation (live on a farm property) and the One Bite was a completely different experience.
As for the Bounce sheets..., I don't know. They do make the car smell like it just came out of the dryer tho!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Marc Haibeck
I have not seen evidence that Sta-Bil is necessary.
Back in the '60's fuel had a short shelf life. It could start turning into gum in as little a four months. Today I don't see any sign of gum formation in fuel that is two years old.
I think that it is not necessary to do anything with fuel that is to be stored for a year. After two years it's a good idea to drain the fuel and install fresh fuel.
Keep the fuel tank filled to the top to suppress water condensation.
Personally, I remove the fuel from seasonal equipment and store it dry. Just siphon out the fuel. Then run the motor until it runs out of gas.
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Thanks for the post, Marc. I've tried additives and also storing seasonal stuff dry. The jury is still out.
I have 8 "seasonal use" motors, ranging from two-stroke yard machines to the 2 Vettes. I can say I've had to overhaul the carb on a generator (x2) a pressure washer, and one (big) motorcycle in the past 10 years, after winter storage; all had fuel(?) gumming issues.
The small engine mechanic in town made the first mention against the Sta-bil product I'd heard. And I did find the white chalky residue in one of the Briggs & Straton motors that he referred to, but hesitate to say it was Sta-bil that caused it.
With and without Sta-bil I've had problems, none (yet) with Sea Foam, but I can't assume the fuel was never at fault in the equation. But, I seem to have had more storage issues than I care to.
I'm not totally sold on the run dry approach. Maybe I'll give that another try. (But, it tickles my curiosity why if modern fuel, as you say, does not have stability issues, why run seasonal motors dry? My thought being evaporating the fuel completely out would cause any non-fuel gunk to precipitate - which is what that chalky stuff looks like, as it settles in the low side of tubes and the float bowl...)
The only thing that seems to work 100% is to run the motors once or (better) twice a month and let them warm up. And, on the other hand there are those that quote various sources saying starting a cold motor is very bad Ju-ju. I don't know why starting a cold LT5 (with AMO 10W-40 full synthetic oil) every couple weeks, just because it is winter is really all that much different than in summer months. (But, I will run a heater under the car for an hour or so...just because it might be better if the oil were a bit warmer.)
It seems like a good topic to do a scientific test on and a followup article. Any takers??