Quote:
Originally Posted by Franke
OK it looks like you have the voltage to the fuse on the orange wire... The blue wire should go to the vac pump. Maybe jumper across the terminals to see if the pump runs?
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I thought about that, but the pump ran fine before, and the battery was un-plugged from before wrench 1 turned a bolt.
So test for a good ground, and good power.
Then what I saw comin' IN bothered me.
Isn't 11.77 V reflective of a problem? Cause it sure wouldn't drive the pump...
I went to FSM, and schematic shows 12V from IG Switch, to splice S239 near Cruise Control Module, P side UNDERdash, and from there, to
1) 2' vac pump, through fuse,
2) Power Window Circuit Breaker @ Main Fuse Panel, and
3) A/C Fuse.
My plan was to test for identical 11.77 V @ '2', and '3', and then work back to IG Switch OUTput, and see if it ALSO was out-putting 11.77 V
But the best laid plans of Schrade & men oft go awry. And this job is in regression, with a decay rate seeming exponential in proportion.
The IAC connector gasket fell off. I unbolted the TB to look, and now 1 of the nuts from the TB linkage / cam shield fell off. It's not in the induction port, but now that I thought longer on the IAC gasket, there is the most remote of possibilities that IT found it's way into #2.