Quote:
Originally Posted by pablopicasso46
Security light does not flash, so I know it's not a VATS issue
|
Good, as long as you're not going by the
past results. If so (once the
battery is back to full charge) try it again. We simply must make sure nothing has changed there else we'd end up chasing our tail.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pablopicasso46
I'm not sure if they tried jumping the purple wire to the +, but I will find out later today,and if not have them try that..I assume the key doesn;t need to be on for that, I think, as I said , they did measure the voltage in the purple wire while tryingto start it and it was 11.5v..which, as I understand it , is what powers just the solonoid and should be enough for that?
|
Yes, 11.5V is
enough there on the
PURPLE wire.
This is not the line that supplies the big current to the starter motor.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pablopicasso46
I did just go down to the shop and try to start it and interestingly, I discovered that the new battery was completely dead .no int lights or anything,so maybe there is a drain on it somwhere?
|
The easy places to look for current being sapped off is the glove compartment and the center console. I personally have had the center console do this. Regardless
you need to find out what is
draining the battery. Disconnecting it each time you park it at night
is not an option and I strongly suggest this is a
bad idea for several
reasons which
I won't go into on this thread.
That would be inconsiderate. Do a search on this forum for "float charger" to find out more. To find what is drawing current at night
try this video. It's a bit long winded but accurate. What you need
is accurate info.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KF1gijj03_0
Quote:
Originally Posted by pablopicasso46
I jumped to my truck..which has always worked before,but this time nada.. When i turned the key the voltage on the dash gauge did drop by about 4 v and
|
Really really
not a good idea to jump start the car ever unless it is
an emergency and even then doing it properly will minimize burning
up the 80s vintage electronics !! You want to let the battery recover
up to a reasonable level first by running your truck 15 or so minutes
while connected to the battery of the Z. Better yet put it on a
charger for 30 min at least. FYI these are not deep cycle batteries.
Taking them down to being dead shortens their life considerably.
Also attempting to start the car with less than a fully charged battery
in no way arcs the contacts on relays or solenoids more than usual.
In fact it'd be less because the internal resistance of the battery is
higher.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pablopicasso46
I lasitened closely but I didn't hear any click so does that mean it;s most likely the solonoid(and not the starter itself?) As yousaid Dynomite, I find it odd that the starter would go out just whe the batery was changed(?)
|
Don't think with a
dead battery any useful info can be acquired.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pablopicasso46
Thanks again
Will figure it out eventualy , I'm sure
|
Yes,
we WILL get this. We're all here behind you.
At this point and from all I've seen on this tread you're
likely to need to pull the plenum (or someone will).
To prep for this I suggest reading up on how to do this.
Even if your mechanic does the work you can still be up
to speed. Here is a link
http://www.zr1netregistry.com/Inform...m-Removal.aspx