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mgg · 12-26-2012

Carter, this post is NOT to criticize the brackets, it is just trying to find out if additional frame other than the material exposed by your bracket needs to be removed. I was thrilled when I bolted up your bracket and was able to use the bi metal hole saw that fit perfectly in the hole in your bracket for the shock. It provided the perfect guide to cut out the frame area exposed in the hole. I assumed after doing that , the schock would then just mount up when assembled with the bushings etc. Unfortunatley it appears about a 1/4 " of additional frame area towards the front hole has to be removed in order for the schock and bushing to move forward so that your bracket holes and the frame holes line up. This is due to the width of the bushing hitting the frame and preventing it from moving forward. Your brackets are fine and well made and need to be made the way they are for this to work. I guess I assumed that when the exposed frame in the hole of your bracket was removed the schock would just bolt up like it was when I drilled out the frame. No where in the installation does it say anything about removing additional frame material which I find a bit odd. Do not interpret this as criticism, just wanting to know if anyone else had this issue . I have followed the instructions on the forum reversing the control arm bolts, shaving the bushing etc. I even compared it to my race car that I installed these same coilovers on without your bracket just to compare. Hopefully I will get this figured out but if you know anyone who has done this and did not have to cut out additional frame material I would like to hear from them. Again, NO PROBLEMS WITH YOUR BRACKETS. They match up with the holes in the frame, they will help strengthen the area, they allow the use of the hole saw to cut out the frame area exposed in the hole. One the schock is installed in the bracket I cannot get the hole in the bracket to line up with the frame holes. This has to be caused by the bushing and I will need to remove more frame material. Approx 1/4". That should do it.

12-26-2012	#115
mgg Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Hamilton, Va. Posts: 113	Re: GB: DRM Coilovers Carter, this post is NOT to criticize the brackets, it is just trying to find out if additional frame other than the material exposed by your bracket needs to be removed. I was thrilled when I bolted up your bracket and was able to use the bi metal hole saw that fit perfectly in the hole in your bracket for the shock. It provided the perfect guide to cut out the frame area exposed in the hole. I assumed after doing that , the schock would then just mount up when assembled with the bushings etc. Unfortunatley it appears about a 1/4 " of additional frame area towards the front hole has to be removed in order for the schock and bushing to move forward so that your bracket holes and the frame holes line up. This is due to the width of the bushing hitting the frame and preventing it from moving forward. Your brackets are fine and well made and need to be made the way they are for this to work. I guess I assumed that when the exposed frame in the hole of your bracket was removed the schock would just bolt up like it was when I drilled out the frame. No where in the installation does it say anything about removing additional frame material which I find a bit odd. Do not interpret this as criticism, just wanting to know if anyone else had this issue . I have followed the instructions on the forum reversing the control arm bolts, shaving the bushing etc. I even compared it to my race car that I installed these same coilovers on without your bracket just to compare. Hopefully I will get this figured out but if you know anyone who has done this and did not have to cut out additional frame material I would like to hear from them. Again, NO PROBLEMS WITH YOUR BRACKETS. They match up with the holes in the frame, they will help strengthen the area, they allow the use of the hole saw to cut out the frame area exposed in the hole. One the schock is installed in the bracket I cannot get the hole in the bracket to line up with the frame holes. This has to be caused by the bushing and I will need to remove more frame material. Approx 1/4". That should do it.