ZR-1 Net Registry Forums - View Single Post - Changing clutch

Paul Workman · 05-27-2012

OH!

Forgot to mention it before, but before you disconnect the drive shaft from the differential, mark the shaft and the yoke on the diff or you might reinstal it 180º from where it was, and likely cause vibration or "buzzing" at high(er) speed...Ain't dat right Lee?

(And, for future, if you ever replace the U joints, same marking goes for the transmission end of the driveshaft too!)

Remove the MAP and fuel pressure regulator from the back of the plenum, or you might pinch them between the plenum and the firewall when tilting the motor to pull the trans. Good time to clean up the grounds too, since they're right there and easy to get to once the bell housing is off.

No time like the present to change to an aluminum FW too, but I digress...
And, another thing not mentioned yet: A bottle jack is needed along with the floor jack. You use it to support the engine when pulling the trans and reinstalling it too, and when aligning the C-beam after wards (before the bolts are tightened at either end) the tail of the trans (via the C-beam reference) needs to be approx 1" from the side of the beam to the tunnel, and approx 1-3/4" from the "roof", ± 1/4".

Hmmm.... Do I sense someone about to write up a checklist for the Registry newsletter??? HMMMMM????

P.

05-27-2012	#19
Paul Workman Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Squires (near Ava MO in the Mark Twain N'tl Forest) - Missouri Posts: 6,466	Re: Changing clutch – can I do this myself? OH! Forgot to mention it before, but before you disconnect the drive shaft from the differential, mark the shaft and the yoke on the diff or you might reinstal it 180º from where it was, and likely cause vibration or "buzzing" at high(er) speed...Ain't dat right Lee? (And, for future, if you ever replace the U joints, same marking goes for the transmission end of the driveshaft too!) Remove the MAP and fuel pressure regulator from the back of the plenum, or you might pinch them between the plenum and the firewall when tilting the motor to pull the trans. Good time to clean up the grounds too, since they're right there and easy to get to once the bell housing is off. No time like the present to change to an aluminum FW too, but I digress... *And, another thing not mentioned yet:* A bottle jack is needed along with the floor jack. You use it to support the engine when pulling the trans and reinstalling it too, and when aligning the C-beam after wards (before the bolts are tightened at either end) the tail of the trans (via the C-beam reference) needs to be approx 1" from the side of the beam to the tunnel, and approx 1-3/4" from the "roof", ± 1/4". Hmmm.... Do I sense someone about to write up a checklist for the Registry newsletter??? HMMMMM???? P.