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| 1990 ZR-1 | · 04-24-2011

Gentlemen, the beast is back!!

I finally finished everything up over this weekend, and what a difference! I believe my secondary injectors were pretty gummed up and were not operating properly. Now I definitely feel a difference between Normal and Full Power modes. I took her for a test drive the roads were slightly damp, and at 50 mph in 3rd gear the rear tires broke loose!! The power is definitely back, and the engine sounds strong and healty. It revs up very quickly, feels very responssive and light on it's feet. Now I just need to detail her and get her ready for the May 14th car show in Medford.

Special thanks to Tom for all his help and for being patient with me.

Also thanks to everyone else who contributed to this thread.

Here's what I've done this weekend.

1. Replaced Primary and Secondary injectors with FIC Lucas Disc type injectors (very impressed with their packaging btw, primary and second injectors were in their own protective boxes clearly marked "Primary" and "Secondary", and each box contained a hand written flow chart. All injector O rings were included.

2. Removed the coil packs and the starter, and cleaned out the valley from debris and oil. The coils, the starter, and the stock wires are in great condition and look brand new once cleaned, therefore I chose not replace them at this time.

3. Blew through the drain hole with compressor (no debris there). I did not want to drill a secondary drain hole since I don't want any water or oil to leak on to the bell housing. IMO the stock drain hole is big enough in case a little bit of water gets in there, and I like how there is a drain tube connected to it that drains everything out from under the transmission housing.

4. Tightened the IH bolts to 20 lbs. They were very loose.

5. Zip tied all secondary vacuum connections for better seal. The vacuum was holding up well prior to this, but now it holds even longer.

5. Assembled the plenum and fuel lines with Jerry's Gasket and O ring set (great fit and fast shipping)

6. Replaced the spark plugs with AC Delco Part # 41-602 from AutoZone. Set the gap to .035

7. Replaced the drive belt with Dayco Belt Part # 5060805 from AutoZone

8. Replaced the Fuel Filter with Part # FF3504 from AutoZone

9. Changed the oil and oil filter with Amsoil AMO 10w40 Synthetic (2.5 gallons), and Bosch filter part # 3401

10. Ordered new Tires to be able to put the power down onto the pavement!! Nitto NT05 Summer Maximum Performance. Stock front and rear measurements. Will be delivered this Tuesday.

Quick note:
After everything was assembled and when I started the car, it still idled roughly. I was basically having the same symptoms as before. It was #6 injector again. It wasn?t "ticking" at which point I could only assume that there was no power getting to it. I traced my steps back to when I was measuring the injector resistance and thought that maybe I bent the ECM connector A8 (#6 cyl) with the pin I used, and now there was no contact. Sure enough that?s exactly what the issue was. So technically all my original primary injectors were fine including #6. It would have been a weird coincidence if #6 injector died right after I measured the resistance. So a word of caution, do not stick a large pin into the ECM connector when measuring the injector resistance. Otherwise you?re taking a chance of loosening the connections.

04-24-2011	#50
\| 1990 ZR-1 \| Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Medford, NJ Posts: 75	Re: Plenum Pull...Parts List Varification... Gentlemen, the beast is back!! I finally finished everything up over this weekend, and what a difference! I believe my secondary injectors were pretty gummed up and were not operating properly. Now I definitely feel a difference between Normal and Full Power modes. I took her for a test drive the roads were slightly damp, and at 50 mph in 3rd gear the rear tires broke loose!! The power is definitely back, and the engine sounds strong and healty. It revs up very quickly, feels very responssive and light on it's feet. Now I just need to detail her and get her ready for the May 14th car show in Medford. Special thanks to Tom for all his help and for being patient with me. Also thanks to everyone else who contributed to this thread. Here's what I've done this weekend. 1. Replaced Primary and Secondary injectors with FIC Lucas Disc type injectors (very impressed with their packaging btw, primary and second injectors were in their own protective boxes clearly marked "Primary" and "Secondary", and each box contained a hand written flow chart. All injector O rings were included. 2. Removed the coil packs and the starter, and cleaned out the valley from debris and oil. The coils, the starter, and the stock wires are in great condition and look brand new once cleaned, therefore I chose not replace them at this time. 3. Blew through the drain hole with compressor (no debris there). I did not want to drill a secondary drain hole since I don't want any water or oil to leak on to the bell housing. IMO the stock drain hole is big enough in case a little bit of water gets in there, and I like how there is a drain tube connected to it that drains everything out from under the transmission housing. 4. Tightened the IH bolts to 20 lbs. They were very loose. 5. Zip tied all secondary vacuum connections for better seal. The vacuum was holding up well prior to this, but now it holds even longer. 5. Assembled the plenum and fuel lines with Jerry's Gasket and O ring set (great fit and fast shipping) 6. Replaced the spark plugs with AC Delco Part # 41-602 from AutoZone. Set the gap to .035 7. Replaced the drive belt with Dayco Belt Part # 5060805 from AutoZone 8. Replaced the Fuel Filter with Part # FF3504 from AutoZone 9. Changed the oil and oil filter with Amsoil AMO 10w40 Synthetic (2.5 gallons), and Bosch filter part # 3401 10. Ordered new Tires to be able to put the power down onto the pavement!! Nitto NT05 Summer Maximum Performance. Stock front and rear measurements. Will be delivered this Tuesday. Quick note: After everything was assembled and when I started the car, it still idled roughly. I was basically having the same symptoms as before. It was #6 injector again. It wasn?t "ticking" at which point I could only assume that there was no power getting to it. I traced my steps back to when I was measuring the injector resistance and thought that maybe I bent the ECM connector A8 (#6 cyl) with the pin I used, and now there was no contact. Sure enough that?s exactly what the issue was. So technically all my original primary injectors were fine including #6. It would have been a weird coincidence if #6 injector died right after I measured the resistance. So a word of caution, do not stick a large pin into the ECM connector when measuring the injector resistance. Otherwise you?re taking a chance of loosening the connections.