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tomtom72 · 12-04-2010

I would just add some general info type stuff.

At the Grocery Store or the local beverage wholesaler you can buy Steam Distilled water in either 3 gallon or 1 gallon containers. I use a combo, it's easier to transport.

I use tap water. I live in an area that gets NYC water which is collected rain water & snow melt so it is not hard water. I use it as my flushing agent.

I drain the existing coolant, use tap water to do four flushes, running the motor up to normal temps each time. Oh, with the heat on full blast too. I then use six gallons of steam distilled water in two flushes to remove the tap water...well as best as I can get the tap water out anyway.

Then I use two gallons of steam distilled water to mix down my new 1825-M coolant to a 50/50 mix. This gives me a leftover volume to use as replacement stock during the driving season if needs be, or I have enough leftovers to make up for a gallon of new coolant mix for another flush & refill session.

I use the T-stat housing to do my drain work during my flush procedures, you may not want to do this. It just goes faster than the radiator petcock. Also, I replace my T-stat when I service the system every two years so using the stat housing make sense for me.

On using the T-stat housing as a drain point, a word of caution. The OEM bolts are a bit short that hold the halves of the housing together. Soooo, if you use the housing as a drain be aware that if you don't separate the housing from the frame mount & loosen the lower rad hose before hand you could cross thread the housing hold together bolts when you try to close the housing so you can continue flushing. If the threads get damaged don't worry as the beginning threads are the ones that get hit. ( ask me how I know

)

This happens because if the housing is still attached to the frame and the hoses, the halves of the housing do not line up so well when you try to put the bolts back. The reason I say don't worry is that the bolt holes for the housing 1/2's are not blind holes. In fact they are threaded all the way out the backs of the holes....you can run a bottom tap thru them and go buy longer bolts at the parts stors in the Dorman display.

ask me how I know this also!

Tom

12-04-2010	#6
tomtom72 Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Jacksonville, FL USA Posts: 4,609	Re: Cooling System R&R I would just add some general info type stuff. At the Grocery Store or the local beverage wholesaler you can buy Steam Distilled water in either 3 gallon or 1 gallon containers. I use a combo, it's easier to transport. I use tap water. I live in an area that gets NYC water which is collected rain water & snow melt so it is not hard water. I use it as my flushing agent. I drain the existing coolant, use tap water to do four flushes, running the motor up to normal temps each time. Oh, with the heat on full blast too. I then use six gallons of steam distilled water in two flushes to remove the tap water...well as best as I can get the tap water out anyway. Then I use two gallons of steam distilled water to mix down my new 1825-M coolant to a 50/50 mix. This gives me a leftover volume to use as replacement stock during the driving season if needs be, or I have enough leftovers to make up for a gallon of new coolant mix for another flush & refill session. I use the T-stat housing to do my drain work during my flush procedures, you may not want to do this. It just goes faster than the radiator petcock. Also, I replace my T-stat when I service the system every two years so using the stat housing make sense for me. On using the T-stat housing as a drain point, a word of caution. The OEM bolts are a bit short that hold the halves of the housing together. Soooo, if you use the housing as a drain be aware that if you don't separate the housing from the frame mount & loosen the lower rad hose before hand you could cross thread the housing hold together bolts when you try to close the housing so you can continue flushing. If the threads get damaged don't worry as the beginning threads are the ones that get hit. ( ask me how I know ) This happens because if the housing is still attached to the frame and the hoses, the halves of the housing do not line up so well when you try to put the bolts back. The reason I say don't worry is that the bolt holes for the housing 1/2's are not blind holes. In fact they are threaded all the way out the backs of the holes....you can run a bottom tap thru them and go buy longer bolts at the parts stors in the Dorman display. ask me how I know this also! Tom __________________ 1990 ZR-1, Black/grey, #2233, stock. ZR-1 Net Reg Founding Member #316 & NCM member Last edited by tomtom72; 12-04-2010 at 02:05 PM.