Water *sigh* pump *argh* repair
 

Well, It looks like my 91 #1388 is doing it again and I'll need to replace the water pump at some point soon.

The seeping is undeniable- small but undeniable. I can only imagine what will happen when I pressure up the system when I finish the oil hose in the next day or so. I'm imagining gushes of green coolant combined with a pit in my stomach.

So, how hard is it to replace the water pump? I looked at the shop manual and it look somewhat doable. I looked at the car and if the air inlet is removed along with the front coolant hoses it looks like there is enough room for a hand for some some wrenching. That damn lower radiator hose looks menacing though.....

I've never messed with a serpentine belt (I'm a recovering C3 XFire guy) so the tensionor has made me timid asthe FSM says "flip this and that".

Any guesses on how many hours it would take a somewhat handy guy with a shop manual and healthy dose of anxiety?

I just swapped out the radiator last week and now have moved on to the oil cooler line, following a remount of the INFL REST senors on the frame and a recent complete Bose/EDM and amp swap.

I'm calculating my last months "drive to repair expense ratio" at about $137 per mile.

As Rosanne Rosanna Dana would say (quoting Mr Richard Fader from Ft Lee, New Jersey), "If it isn't one thing, it's another"

Re: Water *sigh* pump *argh* repair
 

If it makes you feel better here is a brief list of repairs on my 05 SL600 just purchased last year with 51K miles

*ABC hose failure: $180 hose (my labor)
*Rim Cracked: $240
*2 new rear tires $800
*Radiator Failure $300 ( My labor)
*Left and right coil pack failure (1500) My labor
*Replace 24 Spark plugs
*Trunk latch rebuild (my labor)
*ABC junction rebuild ($35 and my labor)
*Windscreen rebuild(50 my labor)
That's on 1500 miles of driving

:salute:

Re: Water *sigh* pump *argh* repair
 

The serp belt goes easily enough, you just need to find a tool that fits it with enough length (but not too much).

I think used cars just react to either having not been driven in ages, or from a different style of driving that comes with the new owner.

Re: Water *sigh* pump *argh* repair
 

I did a water pump replacement this past fall. Time wise it's containable to a weekend (mostly Saturday, maybe some spill over to Sunday).

Hardest part is the hoses, and it's pretty tight in there.

Also be sure to keep track of which water pump bolt came from where, there is an assortment of lengths and sizes on the pump.


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Re: Water *sigh* pump *argh* repair
 

Serp belt is easy. Just insert a 1/2 inch breaker bar into the square notch on the back side of the tensioner and pull towards the passenger fender. This releases the tension and allows you to remove the belt. Doing this with the air horn out of the way makes the process easier. A trick I learned it place your new water pump on your bench and as you pull the water pump bolts to place the bolts after cleaning them into the correct position holes on the new pump. Once the old pump is out replace them and then pull them one at a time as you start installing the new pump. There are many bolts of different sizes and lengths so this is a pretty good memory technique

Make sure you loosen the bolts on the Water pump pulley while the tensioner is still in normal operating position first. You will need to remove the radiator shroud to free up room in the front of the motor to do the repair. If you car still has the corban style radiator clamps I suggest getting a corban ring style puller. I also suggest now that you are there you change all the hoses and the serp belt just so you know its all good.

http://www.alltradetools.com/catalog...amp-pliers.jpg

Re: Water *sigh* pump *argh* repair
 

Genius. Thank you.

Hoses will not give me any big issues as I just put on a set of Jerry's silicone last weekend and aligned the spring clamps; they should slide off without too much persuasion.

The airhorn removal (as suggested in the FSM) looks like it makes sense and will make it easier.

I'll have to do more reading o the tensioner- looks like it needs to come off?

Ok, confidence is growing.... thanks for the hints.

I'll have a better feel for the magnitude of the leaking once the oil cooler hose is attached and I start her up.

Re: Water *sigh* pump *argh* repair
 

The tensioner does have to come off, it's attached with one 18mm or 19mm (I think?) hex bolt, I used a ratcheting box wrench which gave me enough clearance to get in there.


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Re: Water *sigh* pump *argh* repair
 

The tensioner does need to come off however once the tension is released that is very easy to do (Single bolt). Take a picture of its orientation to the motor before removal. This will give you the visual clue to how the back side aligns in the back notch when you reinstall it.

Did you get the stainless clamps for the silicone hoses? I recommend those highly over the OEM corban style for the silicone hoses. Jerry sells those as well

Re: Water *sigh* pump *argh* repair
 

Bill I feel your frustration. keep in mind you have a 26 year old car and now your sorting it all out maintenance wise.

My water pump failed on my 91 in June or July In Phoenix. I was not a happy camper. At least when you done maintenance wise all these areas will be sorted out and you can enjoy the car.

We have all been there. And... we feel your pain. :cheers:

Re: Water *sigh* pump *argh* repair
 

I agree. I bought my ZR-1 in January, 2015, had to work on it for a few months but it's been dead reliable for almost two years, requiring nothing. It's a great car, well built.