Fuel pump hotwire
 

How do I run the pump(s) by jumping the red spade connector???

Re: Fuel pump hotwire
 

With the ignition switch OFF, jumper the battery POS directly to the spade of the connector*

Both pumps should run and continue to run as long as the power is applied and the ignition switch remains OFF.

BTW, configuring the VOM to read amperes, you can measure the current draw.

The current draw is the total for both pumps; approx 8-10 amperes total.

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x...ntcheck004.jpg

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x...ntcheck005.jpg

Re: Fuel pump hotwire
 

Thanks!!! ....Did you ground to the frame of just NEG side of batt???

The whole purpose of this is to clear the lines and check the current...

Re: Fuel pump hotwire
 

Noooooo! Do not connect an ammeter (measuring current) any way but in series with the load.

Connect the VOM (configured to measure amperage) between the positive battery terminal and the fuel pump test (spade) to read current.

Re: Fuel pump hotwire
 

I'm using a VOM don't worry!!!.. Thank-you!!!

Re: Fuel pump hotwire
 

To quote Alfred E. Newman: "WHAT? ME WORRY????"

Oh, I'm not worried, cuz you ain't usin' my VOM! :p But, when you said...

... from what you wrote, I get the impression you may not be familiar with measuring current with a VOM. Not to put too fine a point on my point, but even in Canada if you connect the VOM (configured to measure current - as seen in the photos above) most meters will only handle 10 amperes. So, if you go probing various places with one probe and grounding the other, [-X you'll blow the fuse (at least).

Note: No offense to you if you're fully aware; but in case you are not, let me say it is a good idea to move the probe from the "A" port on the VOM back to the VOLT - OHM port as soon as you're done measuring current to minimize the chances of forgetting and attempting a voltage measurement. (Ask me how I know!) And, I recommend switching the VOM to "A" before connecting the test leads in series with the load to avoid arching the contacts in the VOM.

:cheers:

Re: Fuel pump hotwire
 

I got a 6.17a reading...

Re: Fuel pump hotwire
 

Assuming proper connection/setup, THAT reading appears to be low, i.e., one pump only, or one pump may be faulty, or a bad connection(?).

While monitoring the current, pull the FP1 fuse on the main panel and see what the current is. (Current adds in this case. So, pulling only one fuse and seeing what current remains will tell us what the current draw of each pump is.)

Here is a schematic from a 90 FSM which I hope is similar enough to work on later mo cars too. (Someone may correct me if this isn't accurate beyond the 90 Zs)

Fuse location (1990): one on the main fuse panel, one on the auxiliary panel accessed behind/under the passenger knee panel).

Re: Fuel pump hotwire
 

I got 0.46A with FP1 pulled.

Re: Fuel pump hotwire
 

Well, that's a problem. It should be in the 4-5A range w/ FP1 pulled (ignition switch in OFF position). So, "ringing out" the circuit and ultimately the fuel pump to find the problem is next. It could be a bad relay or even a connector (ask Jim Voter about his experience w/ pump connectors!).

Present company excepted; BUT! For all that say chit like "It can't be "this or that (part)", because I replace it", especially when dealing with foreign-made parts, one has to VERIFY the replacement part is working. NEVER ASSUME! Just b/c it is "new", doesn't mean it works, OR that it won't fail shortly after it is installed. (Statisticians call it "infant mortality"; the period when a device is most likely to fail is when it is first installed!) Example: One of my new pumps failed right out of the box! Just sayin.....:(

Anywayz... sounds like you're on the right path.