O2 Sensor wiring accessability
 

Changed the left O2 sensor on my 91 - easy!
On the right I just cannot see how to access the three pin plug sandwiched in between the block and the front frame. I can barely see it let alone get my fingers in there and the loom doesn't pull out. Any suggestions please

Re: O2 Sensor wiring accessability
 

Pull off the k-frame brace for starters on the passenger side motor mount (don't worry, it doesn't hold up the engine, there's a tab welded to the frame you can't see that does that). I then proceeded to use long skinny flat bladed screwdrivers like chopsticks to manipulate the lock tab and popped it out. It just sucks- not much way around it.

Re: O2 Sensor wiring accessability
 

Yep...They're a bitch to get to - is why when I bought my SW headers, I located new bungs on the sides of the header collectors such that they're easy to access w/o jacking the car up. I set the bungs so that the O2 sensors angle very slightly upward to avoid being wiped off in case of bottoming out - which I have a little experience with:o - and the sensors remained unscathed.

Re: O2 Sensor wiring accessability
 

Thats pretty much how you do it and anything else that works.Its been awhile but I think I took a long rod and a blob of sticky DUM-DUM,also known as seam sealer to get the connector started and then use a long screw driver to push the 2 connectors together but you do need to pull that frame section out.Oh,and to add to the difficulty,I did this in a one car garage with no room on the sides to climb under the car.:mad:

Re: O2 Sensor wiring accessability
 

Thanks mike100 and other contributors - job done. How difficult would it have been for the designers to add 3" to the loom and make it easy?

Re: O2 Sensor wiring accessability
 

How about removing the nut that attaches to the engine mount? OK?

Pic attached:

Re: O2 Sensor wiring accessability
 

Pull it out. The brace is a supplement to rigidity. Taking out the brace does not alter engine position.