Clutch Slave Cyclinder
 

My Z has been down for severl months waiting for my new garage to get in working shape. I blew the clutch slave doing a power shift. I was able to get in 2nd and limp home since I was only a couple of miles away. To move it around at home I pumped it about 50 times and was not grinding gears.

Subsequently I bought a new slave, my grandson and I installed it, bleed it and as we finished getting the bubbles out it locked up. I could not depress the clutch pedal to the floor. Thought maybe we did something wrong, pulled it put it back, same issue, replaced it with the old slave which I took apart and cleaned (full of gunk), same issue. I get about two thirds of the pedal depression and then it is not going any further.

What simiple step are we missing? Is the clutch master cyclinder blown and impacting the slave? I have a new clutch master sysclinder and was going to replace it as well but do not want to start it until I have the slave working correctly unless it is or could be the problem.:icon_scra:icon_scra:icon_scra

Doug
ZR1FUN

Re: Clutch Slave Cyclinder
 

Not sure what is going on but a call to Bill Boudreau is in order. The slaves had a high failure rate out of the box. You May have done nothing wrong.

WWW.ZFdoc.com

Heres a link to his article on the have subject http://www.zfdoc.com/CHS_Actuator_Seal_Fault.htm

Re: Clutch Slave Cyclinder
 

This may be off the wall.....but what are the symptoms of a bent clutch pedal arm?

Other than that, the only thing left is the master.

Re: Clutch Slave Cyclinder
 

I have 2 spare clutch pedal assemblies if needed. Another thought could be the throwout bearing arm may be bent.

Re: Clutch Slave Cyclinder
 

If it will depress to the floor with the bleeder on the slave open, or the line loosened, or before the air is bleed out like you mentioned, then I would think the problem is probably at the slave end.

Re: Clutch Slave Cyclinder
 

Did you ever fix the problem? I seem to behaving the same issues and it is looking like a pressure plate or clutch fork problem. What have you done?


Thanks in advance Matt

Re: Clutch Slave Cyclinder
 

The symptoms of a bent clutch fork are as follows. Clutch engages only a few inches off the floor board. Next will be broken throwout bearings. One right after the other. Here's a good clutch fork next to a bent and twisted clutch fork.
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/n...0/bent1001.jpg
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/n...0/bent1002.jpg

Re: Clutch Slave Cyclinder
 

What's the deal with bleeding the clutch slave on a 1990 ZR-1. The FSM says use an easy-out (I think) to remove existing bleed screw and replace with new one. Bleed and then break off bleed screw to provide clearance! Did they do an upgrade in later years that is a little better? I may need to replace clutch master so I may want to replace slave also.

Re: Clutch Slave Cyclinder
 

I'm working on engineering a better clutch master/slave combo. The master is a piddly 11/16" piston. You have to bury the pedal into the carpet every time to shift. Third is always hard to push into. I'm planning on selling a conversion to a 3/4" or 13/16" master to push more volume out to the slave, giving more stroke to the slave. In regards to this issue, it seems the push rod is not seated into the fork. . I am also working on a slave rebuilding kit. Many power brake seals are very close to what is needed. I will post when it is ready.

Re: Clutch Slave Cyclinder
 

Bleeding the slave is the simplest thing. Air bubbles only go UP. Fluid only goes DOWN. Usually just filling the master and letting it sit, the slave will bleed. You can also pump, SLOWLY, the fluid down to the slave, but Chevy put the bleeder on the BOTTOM. That will let fluid push thru, but the final air bubbles will work their way back up to the reservoir just pumping with the bleeder shut, or driving it to work out the last air bubbles.