New option for fuel pump replacement
So, with my recent saga of the drop-in pump/sender replacement from the partsladi on ebay (made in china, primary pump failed two months/100 miles after installation, partsladi not willing to refund/replace without original box), I figured I'd look for another option. It's well known that the replacement fuel pumps for a '96 Suburban 2500 with 454 is a drop-in replacement.
Bosch recently introduced a line of "turbine" fuel pumps which are supposed to reduce noise, vibration, and fuel line pulsation. Apparently, the conventional roller-vane or gear rotor pumps actually feed fuel in "pulses" rather than a continuous flow pattern, resulting in the need for a "pulsator" in the fuel line, to smooth out the up-down variation in flow. These turbine pumps apparently feed fuel linearly, and therefore there's no pulsation. These pumps also carry a lifetime warranty (I think through Bosch, though I bought it at Advance Auto and that's where I saw the lifetime warranty mentioned). After being stranded once, I like the idea of being able to exchange the pump at any advance auto store, if it happens again. The Turbine pump that is a replacement for the Suburban is part number 69225. -- To access the fuel pumps, the filler door assembly has to be removed. Lift the fuel filler door, then remove four Torx-head screws which secure the door assembly to the body. Lift door assembly off car. -- Unscrew the fuel filler cap. -- Gently remove rubber boot around filler neck. These are hard to find, so try not to tear it if yours is brittle. -- There are 3 hose connections - supply, return, and vapor. All must be disconnected. The rubber will probably be stuck on to the metal fittings, you can gently use a pliers with a rag in the jaws, to twist the rubber off of the metal, after removing the clamp(s). To prevent fuel leakage, use a clean bolt that fits snugly in the supply and return lines. -- There's one wiring connector - unplug it. -- There are 8-10 10mm bolts that secure the pump assembly flange to the mounting location on the tank. -- Once all wiring, plumbing, and bolts are removed, the pump assembly can be lifted up a bit. As you lift it up, you'll need to rotate it 90 degrees to maneuver it out of the filler hole. It takes some trial and error to get the right angle, more so when re-installing. -- Once the assembly is out of the tank, you can use a wire cutter to snip the zip-ties that secure the pumps in place. I went to the store with the "correct" chinese Delco pumps, and had the counter person measure them with a caliper. The Bosch 69225 is marginally wider - I think it was a few mm wider, but I figured there's enough play in the assembly that maybe it'd fit. Apparently, it's just shy of fitting. The pump fits 3/4 of the way into position before getting stuck in the plastic housing cylinder. As a result, it's impossible to fit the strainer sock on the intake of the pumps. Here's a pic of how far the new pump fits into the housing, with no modifications: http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/v...p/IMG_1609.jpg It looks good, but it's about 1/4 to 1/2 inch shy of being fully seated. So, what I did, was whip out the Dremel with a cut-off wheel, and cut a relief slit in the side of the plastic housing cylinders. I was careful to not extend this to the bottom cup of each cylinder, in order to avoid sacrificing too much strength. http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/v...p/IMG_1617.jpg This allowed the cylinder to expand just enough to seat the pump fully. Once seated, the strainer sock could be fitted without a problem, and the factory zip-tie retention method could be duplicated. http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/v...p/IMG_1619.jpg More to come in next post... |
Re: New option for fuel pump replacement
The Bosch pumps include an adapter harness to convert the factory narrow plug to the wider socket of the Bosch pump. This allows the option of returning to an OEM pump without too much headache, other than the presence of the relief slits, which I don't think should present a problem.
http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/v...p/IMG_1621.jpg http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/v...p/IMG_1623.jpg Harness adapter installed: http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/v...p/IMG_1620.jpg Interestingly, the 2 new 69225 pumps had the same part number, but one had a green top, the other black. Probably just different lots or production times, I guess. I replaced all of the cheesy stock black plastic clamps with proper metal clamps (the bosch pumps each come with 4 metal band clamps). http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/v...p/IMG_1625.jpg -- If the original strainer socks are in good condition, they can be reused. Aftermarket replacements are available (and required for Bosch's warranty on the pumps). The only difference is that the aftermarket strainer socks don't utilize the factory method for securing the free end to the pump holder. I don't see this as a big issue, as the strainer's press-fit on to the intake of the pump seems very secure. |
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Good pictures and write-up.
Question, Did you dremel in two slits? And did the Bosch pump make it any more difficult to get the unit back in the tank? Thanks Rick |
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Thanks Andrew |
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Thanks for a great alternative!
My pumps are good so far (knock on wood...) but if I need replacement I will try this route. |
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Thanks for posting this fix!:thumbsup:
It kind of stinks that the P/Laddie seems to be inflexible on the warr issue. I mean where else would we all buy ZR-1 pump assemblies from????:rolleyes: I also bought one of those assemblies from Laddie because of the great price. Looks like I should have gone another route. I figured plug & play was consistent with the KISS school of thought. I guess it's too much to think that the parts would have good Q/Control.:( |
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Thanks for the reply Andrew
Looks like the best fix yet. |
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woops, One more question Andrew, please.... How do you know when the bosch pump is filly seated in the housing?
Thanks again Rick |
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Thanks for sharing the info. I bought one of these too to keep for the day I need it. By then the warranty will be over and wasted $. I don't know if they will refund and I have the original box.
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Just took it for a test drive, ran up to 7K in 4th gear a few times, everything seems to be working well! It's probably just my imagination that makes it feel faster than before, but I'm not complaining!
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:thumbsup:
Thanks for all the detail on this. Rick |
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:cheers: |
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Similar to placebo effect? |
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A few questions here.
Did you need a new gasket for the sender assembly? What is the part # or application for the new sock? Is there anything else you need to buy before diving into a pump replacement? TY :) |
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The sock is the same as stock, the nipple on the pump is the same standard size. Any parts store will be able to set you up with an appropriate sock. Nothing else to buy - as long as you have a way to cut the relief slots in the pump holder, and a few zip ties on hand to secure them once finished. |
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I called a resource and a whole new AC Delco sending unit with 2 Delphi pumps is only $275. I am thinking of just getting the new unit...
Thoughts??? |
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http://zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?t=9763&page=2
That should explain a little... some folks get pretty heated and defensive when I bring up the issue, but when you are buying so-called ACDelco parts, it's best to check on the return policy beforehand... there's lots of "white box" parts out there, some may be legitimate ACDelco parts, but I have my doubts about some. The vendor in question in my case was Partsladi on ebay, who is no longer in business...:dancing |
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Probably not, but....:dontknow:
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Bottom line for me here is when I crack open the tank and take the old unit out and its covered in rust I want to replace it with a new unit. I just dont know what I am going to find. Car is a 1990 with 32K on it. been sitting around a longgggggg time. |
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Did the same fuel pump install today. Very easy to cut the relief in the holster. Used the same Bosch 69225 pumps. Runs great.
NOTE: AIRTEX fuel pumps suck. Lasted about a month. Lesson learned...... |
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Good stuff, Brett!
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Thanks for your write-up on this option. Really appreciate it.:cheers:
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The modification to the fuel pump holsters was a simple relief cut and will not compromise the ability to hold the pumps. The holsters will outlast the pumps. No problem.
NOTE: The relief cut is not the entire length of the holster. I only cut it near the bottom where the pump would not fully seat. |
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I did this "mod" at 17 yrs and about 33k miles. My OE pumps were just a bit tired showing on the low side of the FSM PSI spec spread. I now have 55k miles so figure about 22k miles and 5 yrs worth of use, and the only issue I have had was one of the factory plastic clamps cracked. The holders for the pumps are in great condition as I just looked at them the other day when I pulled it out to check the screw clamps I used to replace the OE plastic clamps.
I know this sounds a bit stupid, but I could actually feel the difference from my original BG pumps and the new ones when I get into the secondaries. My OEM pumps tested right at 46 PSI with the KOEO test, now the Bosch pumps still test at 55 - 54 PSI. I should mention this as a fwiw. When I bought the Bosch pumps they were over or right around $100.00 each. I looked them up like a year ago and the price is almost 1/2 now...unless I made a mistake with the part numbers because you can't look them up by application. I just wonder why they are less now than back when I bought them? :cheers: Tom |
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Tom, is it possible you looked up the price of a Bosch standard roller-vane type pump rather than the turbine pump? I remember paying around 90-100 each as well, about 3 years ago with my red car, and again 2 years ago with my current Z. |
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I'm all in favor of improvements toward reliability. I've done it myself on a lot of the systems. As I said in an earlier post, time is the ultimate test as per reliability. While we're at it though, I think the BS about "pulsing" fuel by the old pumps is an old ploy by sales folks to get you to by something. In this case something that does not fit. I've taken two failed pumps apart. The failures have to do with "sucking air". The contacts fry very easily if a pump is run in open air at any time. Also there is absolutely no mechanism of "pulsing" the fuel in the our system. The primary pump is on all the time. The fuel system is a closed loop that returns unused fuel back to the tank. Now on my Explorer it's different. The pump is the same type as the vett but the electronics do in fact "pulse" the fuel and there is a device inline that absorbs the pressure pulses. Our ZR-1s have a regulator that drops the pressure to the rail if too high. Whole different concept than the systems (like the explorer) that regulate by turning on and off (pulsing). Even the name of the device is different on the pulsing systems. They're not called "fuel regulators". (can't think of the name right now) Again the need to use a "turbine" fuel pump aside, I honestly hope your mod holds up. I'd declare it a success if in two years there is no cracking. But then you'd have to take it out and look either by a pump failure or just to "look see". |
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Nobody is holding gun to your head. Those of us who have done this mod are happy with it. If you're uncomfortable with it, it's as easy as just not doing it.
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[QUOTE=tomtom72;145157]I did this "mod" at 17 yrs and about 33k miles. My OE pumps were just a bit tired showing on the low side of the FSM PSI spec spread. I now have 55k miles so figure about 22k miles and 5 yrs worth of use, and the only issue I have had was one of the factory plastic clamps cracked. The holders for the pumps are in great condition as I just looked at them the other day when I pulled it out to check the screw clamps I used to replace the OE plastic clamps.
/QUOTE] You cut a slit on the side of each pump holder? And that was at something called "17 yrs" ? And you are now at year what? Oh wait I see, 5yrs !!! Ok maybe this mod has more clock time then I thought. That's different then. I wish that would have been stated. |
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That's an excellent and astute observation though. Why didn't I think of that. I don't have to do the mod. Gee thanks. |
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I've been driving my ZR-1 daily for ~2 years, 11K miles, with this mod, with no problems. I pulled the assembly out about 3k miles ago and everything looked as it did the day I installed it. :blahblah: |
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