Clutch slave.
I'm having the worst time trying to find a slave cylinder. They are obsolete with most parts houses. Napa, Advanced, Auto zone. They show obsolete on there computers. I'm almost tempted to put the original first one back in. I just don't know how to bleed it. There's no way to get ahold of the bleed screw. It looks like its been cut off.
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easier to work what and bleed screw will not break off like the 89-90 models 91-96 is more readily avail.. L98/LT1/LT4/LT5 slaves are all the same |
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yeah Rick...on the later model the bleed screw is on the bottom...if I rememebr correctly from doing mine. Either that or I put it on upside down.
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I had to do my clutch R&R by myself on my '91. OH yea, FUN, FUN. (BTW, thanks for all the pics you posted), but ...even with the later style bleeder screw on top, it was also a pain to get it bleed because of the tight fit and wrench room. I am still not sure I got 100% of the air out. For the first time I can remember, I committed the sin of letting the reservoir run dry. I also read a lot of comments about just having to let the last bit of air work it's way up & out so I just kept working the clutch. I swore that if I had to do it again, I would try and install one of those spring loaded self bleeder in there if possible. Another note, you may not have read about yet concerning the badly designed/machined replacements. IIRC, the internal orifice was too small to release the piston and a burr chewed the new o-ring? Let me know If you need any help neighbor, I am on the NW side of town near 610. Lee |
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I let the reservoir bleed dry at first when I changed mine as well...what a pita. If I was at home I would look under there and see whether or not the bleed screw is on the top or bottom all I know is it was a pita. I still need to figure out why my shifter is rattling.
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I am about to get serious about investigating some serious chug-a-lug symptom mine developed when I nail it. I just figured it would be a secondary vacuum thing, but when it still does it with the key off I am starting to pucker up just thinking about an electrical problem. Anyway, I read you are a CNC machinist, it seems we share some interests although I don't remember any G-Codes anymore and was just a job shop manual machinist for a short while, you can appreciate how it can get in your DNA for life. I would like to yak:blahblah: with you sometime so if would PM me your phone number and a message of when it would be the best time to catch you with some free time. Lee |
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Greetings USAFPILOT, I have read plenty of your posts over the years, thanks. I am sure you helped me out with something without knowing it? :worship:call me Lee. :hello: It seemed about two pumps is all you get? My '91 was on top, with a melted rubber cap from the heat. |
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Bother if you've had to replace the pilot bushing then you've already earned my respect. I know exactly whats involved in doing that. I should of put a Fadanza flywheel in when I had it all apart replacing the clutch. Oh well? Unless you bought one of these super low mile ones there will always be something to fix. Mine just turned 80,000 miles. One day I will buy a super low mile primadonna to put away. But I'm gonna enjoy this one. And when the engine needs to be rebuilt, I'll just drop it off at Corey's and say its 368 time dude. Call me when its done.
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There is no need to use the bleeder valve. After installing the new slave, fill the master and start pumping the clutch pedal. It works better if you sidestep it. Sometime during the third beer, you will get all the air out of the system. Make sure you keep the master full.
Will |
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I ordered the slave cylinder from two different Orielly's auto parts stores thinking I've doubled the chances of nothing going wrong. Boy I was the one that was wrong. The guy at the first store say's its here come pick it up. I get there and open the box and it's the master cylinder. So I call the second store. They say it was never ordered and I was standing right there when the guy ordered it. Is everybody on drugs or what.
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www.rockauto.com I am using a cast cylinder.. works fine and is around $60 |
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Sometimes, there are such a joke for those that remember a real parts man. |
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Well, if you have a lathe & mill, you can always make one if you have to? :cool: |
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oh by the way.. if you have not ordered from Rock Auto.. I Found this: Your RockAuto discount code 1328116953149 will expire on February 15, 2009. |
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Rick,
Why not put a stainless insert in the old slave cylider like they do the C3 brakes? Anyone have a source for the plunger rubber??? Will |
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If you could find an old Wagner book, they list all their parts by size in the back index.:-D |
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In due time my friends in due time. Parker Orings are some of the best http://www.parker.com/portal/site/PA...0048021dacRCRD
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Even machining a new one from SS you'll still have the geometry problem of the pistong hitting the cylinder. This is a known problem from discussions involving Hib. (see archives of the net list)
I suppose a screw-in replacement would make it easier but.... a fix to the geometry would be better. |
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For starters, checkout the "Common Issues" (#21,#25 & #26) area off the main page if you haven't read it all yet? Then there are more problems somewhere about bad newly manufactured replacements, I think from TRW?:-(**|= |
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Then checkout "GM Clutch Hydraulic System Actuator" Under ZR-1 Trouble shooting section. It has some pics and another link for even more great news for a slave cylinder.:mad: |
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I remember the talk I had with Bill B via e-mail back in 05. He had mentioned there was also a geometry issue with the position of the M/C for the system. He found that the spacer GM used is not creating level travel of the M/C's piston, thus wearing the seal because it travels thru an arch rather than a dead flat line. He was considering the issue and what angle to remake the spacer to correct the OEM spacer's error.
In his opinion, the original spacer is just a degree or two off. He said that they didn't account for the fire wall being angled at the mounting point. |
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