Alternator upgrade
In preparation of Spal fan upgrade I am planning, I decided to upgrade my alternator to 200amp. Powermaster is an option but figured I would try Nippon Denso version customized to work with CS144 cars.
Mike (5abivt) had done this conversion a couple of years ago. His choice was DC Power unit. However, his difficulty in adopting Nippon Denso connector to CS144 was noted and led to my decision to go with Quality Power Alternator since Quality Power Alternator offers conversion harness taking the guess work out and keeping it looking professional. Additional 8 ga. cable was added between the alternator post to battery to allow for additional current and, while at it, added additional 18 ga. between the battery and HVAC controller resulting in some extra oomph to HVAC fan. Note Phil's custom spacer that allows slick adoptation to passenger side mounting bracket. https://oi658.photobucket.com/albums...psrro2oucv.jpg All buttoned up. Shame that most of the alternator is hidden behind vent tube, harness and bracket. https://oi658.photobucket.com/albums...pspkbjrlmf.jpg Of course, while at it, a perfect opportunity to replace fuel pressure regulator with Phil's upgraded version. https://oi658.photobucket.com/albums...ps8jwwfap8.jpg The work was done at WAZOO garage with invaluable help from Jim and moral support from Nelson and Charlie. Thanks guys!!! |
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Do you have more details on part numbers and cost? I would like to upgrade my alternator and was leaning towards this route but could not find and info when I searched
Thanks |
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https://www.qualitypowerauto.com/ite...-7.2-Mount.htm Invoice says 8112-ND-200A, rear post 6S 2.3" pulley and W3030D harness. Again, passenger side post needs a spacer and thread needs to be bored out for our LT5. Cost was $485 including the harness. Talk to Kevin. He was very helpful. |
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Yun, nice mod and I did not think so soon. Thanks for sharing and costing me even more money.....LOL.
Maybe we can convince Phil to sell his custom spacer? Maybe Kevin will consider a group buy too? Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry |
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Kevin is the contact @ Quality Power Alternator? I would think the later tech Alternator would work better/last longer
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These alternators evidently have high RPM capability. Kevin was recommending 1.6" pulley (if I remember correct) and I went conservative with the largest pulley offered - 2.3". This combo requires 80 inch belt. |
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How is it working out for you so far ( yeah I know it was just recently done) but I am planning that mod along with the HVAC fan wiring. if I can get a boost out of the fan I will take it I also did the Regulator update, not needed, but rather get it done before I NEED it done |
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HVAC fan speed has definitely increased. |
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I’ll try to get on the right time zone and give him a call. Not into washers and will check with Phil. If nothing else some specs to have Carter make a run. Thanks again! Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry |
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When Marc did the alternator upgrade on my car to 200 amp he also did the double wire to the AC blower. Before the mod air flow out my vent was at 10 mph and after it was 14 mph. I like it very much. Just spent 3 hours in Dhaka, Bangladesh traffic with no AC and can't wait to get home next week!
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The additional wiring is a great idea. I'll have to remember that. |
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I called and Yes we can get a group price.. minimum for the group price will be 5..
I will post a thread with details later.. |
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Thanks Jeff!!! Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry |
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Should be able to round up 5 easily.
Tell Kevin I said "hi!".:cheers: |
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what is the benefit of this one vs the CS-144 from Power Master?
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Above are based on what I have read. Not been able to confirm so far. |
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How is this holding up? been thinking about this again.. I noticed it mainly at idle. I have a couple ideas to try.. before dropping money on one of these.. Group buy never panned out.. nobody was interested. I think if I buy one, the stock power is fine, I just want better idle current
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With Spal fans running at full speed, maximum coolant temp I saw was 211. Once it hit 211, temp started to come down and around 200-201 would go up to 208 and repeat. With fans running, voltage readout was 14.3 to 14.5 volts. Oil temp was steady at 197 but occasionally would go up to 201 to 202. Dewitt dual core, 200 amp alternator and Spal fans definitely reeled in coolant temp concern in worst case scenario. It would be interesting to compare voltage reading of stock 94 Z with OEM fans running vs. my setup, although not apple to apple. |
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Since I revived this thread.. I ended up finishing my rebuild of an Alternator I started 5 years ago.. car was dead, I needed an alt and bought a reman @ the local parts stoe
I bought several parts to upgrade my old one, but every time I tested it, it did not work. Last weekend I went through all the Rectifiers and checked them, I used a stock Rectifier and stock regulator, new brushes, new rotor I bought 5 years ago, along with a 140-150A Stator. Basically all new except Rectifier, Regulator and case. Assembled it and it worked I just purchased a 200a Capable Rectifier and the correct brush holder. I spoke with a a guy at Quick Start (alternatorparts.com) he said the 124A stock units were more like 105-110A and the CS144 is 60% max at idle. So with the parts I have and the new Rectifier, I should have an improved idle current. Once I get it together I will install it and add a 8ga power wire from the alt to the Junction block and see how it does |
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I'm seriously thinking about this, getting pretty sick of my alternator randomly dropping voltage at stop lights and my stereo shutting off. I've already tried rebuilding it but obviously didn't catch all the problems. I like the idea of a 200amp unit, I have some more electronics mods planned and that would give me some extra breathing room.
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Welp I'm going to get me one of these. Can anyone tell be the thickness of the spacer needed? Also why go down to a 2.3in pulley from the stock 2.6? Are you just trying to get a little more oomph at idle over and above the already increased output of the 200amp alternator to run the spal fans?
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Quality power recommended smaller diameter pulley. According to QP, their alternator can handle higher RPM. I went with the largest diameter pulley offered by QP. Of course, higher RPM means more amp at idle. |
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Spacer is 1/4” thick.
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Thanks, got one on the way. Hopefully I can squeeze it in by pulling just the throttle body, I've already hit my quota for plenum pulls this year lol |
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I don't think I can fit a 21.3" pulley under my hood lol When I talked to Kevin he said the belt difference would be just over a quarter inch, I may be able to use what I have as I erred on the tight side with the belt. |
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Throw in 2 Spal fans and fear of overheating becomes a distant memory. |
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Second chance do you have a post/ write up of the Spal fan install?
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https://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?t=30609 |
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Did you run the additional 8 gauge wire to the alternator? If so where does the wire terminate? Thanks for the thread! I already got the altenator you recommended
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Is there any advantage to adding the 8 gauge and 18 gauge for the fan motor without installing a higher amp unit? I have a brand new stock one form Jerrys already installed.... exercise in futility?
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Thicker wire alone, may not have much effect. |
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Actually the thicker the wire the LESS resistance but the thicker the wire the more current can get pushed through without burning it up.. Heat is generated by the resistance
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[QUOTE=-=Jeff=-;309294]Actually the thicker the wire the LESS resistance but the thicker the wire the more current can get pushed through without burning it up.. Heat is generated by the resistance[/QUOTE
Without alternator with higher output, what effect would larger ga wire have on fan motor? |
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More power/current flow to the fans. So the fans would benefit of the larger wiring as there will be less power drop at the fan
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