SW headers on the Way!
Just ordered a shiny new set of headers for the beast. Anyone that has some good tips and tricks to offer me for the install would be much appreciated. They have a couple different sets to choose from and I went with the ZR1CORVCAT setup. It looked like a real long tube, where their factory connection setup looks shorter. I am hoping the pipes that would be intended to reach their resonator will line up into my B&B X-pipe...if not I guess I will be making one trip across town with headers only.
I saw another thread mentioning removing the air pump system or something. I'm not sure if I can get away with that in Houston or not. Thats also why I went with cats, because I do get hooked up to the sniffer. |
Re: SW headers on the Way!
Great choice. I wish they had all these options when I bought mine years ago. I'm still trying to figure out how to put cats on mine as I have the off road version. ZR1CORV3/8
Hit up Paul W if you want the oil dipstick bracket. You should have no problem bolting up this system. :cheers: |
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Hopefully you won't have to keep the system - but I'd sure decide now before SW ships yours out without tubes. |
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huh...figures something would be missing. I guess I will find out tomorrow when I call them. They must have closed up shop already today. I guess if they shipped me the system without air tubes I will go without it and see what happens. I don't remember my emission tester guys ever looking for the AIR system...maybe, maybe not.
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you can send them to mark haibeck to have the tubes installed .i think he charges 300 to do that
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Don't forget the EGR connection on the passenger side header, if you have to pass a visual exam you need that also.
:cheers: Tom |
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Yeah they said they are going to have the EGR tube and they added the air system for me for a little more $$$, wallet hurting.
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just wondering why you didnt have corey make a set for you ?????
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It would be a good time to replace you O2 sensors with Bosch from Autozone. The leads are a little longer than stock and will work without needing a wire extension kit (which I found to be waaay to long).
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I think I might use him to install 4:10s, possibly. I'll have to consider my skill level and do some research, but it might be a job I am capable of. The only other ideas I have for Corey are porting my top end. My problem is I can afford about one fun thing for the car each year. Last year I got the cutback, so this exhaust system is sort of a double whammy. I could have gone cheaper I guess, but I think the SW headers, 3" B&B w/ Xpipe is going to be great in the long run. It will sound good now and make all the power I could need later on. |
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Your dipstick bracket will mail today. And, I have an extra, if anyone needs one.
P. |
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Paul, will I need your type dipstick bracket for OBX's??? I'm starting out with OBX's just to save a little money during a large project. Maybe some Jeal copies later. |
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Also, I've found the EGR hose to be a PITA. The kit comes with a high temp silicone hose and mine usually gets hard and brittle after a few months so I had Marc remove my EGR through a chip. I reinstall the stock chip and do a few high rpm runs with a couple quarts of denatured alcohol in the tank before I go through the sniffer. So far so good, sniffs like a Prius...lol! |
Re: SW headers on the Way!
I installed my headers at home by myself and they weren't that difficult. It took me the better part of a weekend, taking my time and going rather slowly. Removing the stock manifolds and heat shields is a true exercise in patience and dexterity. One tool that made the job a lot easier was a stubby 10mm multi-angle ratcheting box end wrench. I picked it up from Harbor Freight in a set. I'm pretty sure the size is 10mm but I could be wrong.
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I have your email addy, but not sure if I have your mailing address. PM me with that too, and I'll send it off. P. |
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They are here! I didn't even know they shipped. Removing the old stuff now.
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So I have removed the cutback and am working on trying to get the manifolds and cats off. The cat bolts are basically welded on and I broke of one bolt head so far so they aren't budging very easily. The heat shields need to come off so I can get access to the header bolts. I need some ideas on how to get them out. I have the bolts out of the heat shields on the drivers side, but cannot wiggle it out.
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Pete |
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get yourself some gloves and manhandle them out of the way .those heatshields are very sharp believe me i know after doing 3 sets of header installs
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yeah I have some gloves...it just binds up on the front side of the engine between the steering shaft and the manifold. I guess I will try to get to the manifold bolts, but I don't think that can be done with the heat shield on there.
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Take motor mount bolts out lift motor will give you more room.
Pete |
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i don't have any ability to lift the motor or it would certainly be an option...I wrestled out the heat shield and got all the header bolts out...it is now hanging by the O2 sensor...haha...i propped it up with a jack stand. How does the O2 sensor come out?
Also, should I use exhaust gaskets or the squeeze stuff from SW that they recommend when I install? |
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Who has the gaskets?
Also, how much of the heat shielding goes back up? So far I have had to remove it all. |
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yeah but mine won't be
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IMHO they need to be
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I'm not sure where in Houston to take them...or what it would cost. My budget is getting a little thin. StainlessWorks claims theirs don't need to be due to the type of steel they use.
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stuck again...how am I supposed to remove the EGR tub from the manifold? Stainless Works instructions mention to take care of the V clamp...but I don't know what that is.
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well after I repaired the damaged knock sensor plug and figured out how to get to all the bolts and remove the v clamp from the egg tube the old manifold are OFF!!! Whoo Hooo. Enough for this weekend. I will now order some gaskets rather than get a huge mess going with the rtv and see about a new V clamp...however mine is straight...I will just need a tool to squeeze it back on.
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Did you decide to keep the AIR crap?
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you are going to love the way it will make power in the upper ranges compared to the stk manifolds.no more cork.lol
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Keeping the AIR is certainly a bad decision at this point. The AIR tubes SW puts on them look great at first until you try to get the air system back on the car. The pipe that connects to the bottom of the car on the passenger side of the oil pan that routes up and over the exhaust manifold to the header air tubes basically will not go on. I have leaned on it trying to bend the dang thing and succeeded. It is on for now but only barely into the rubber fittings, enough for the clamp. I can't get the rubber T square at the top so it is being stretched and this pipe rests on the headers. I have a feeling it will make a terrible rattle once the engine is started.
Is there a flex tube of sorts I could go buy that could be cut down and shaped to fit better. It would have to be made from aluminum. Other than that, is there some kind of material I could wrap it with to prevent the noise I think I am about to get? I have also been able to get every bolt one except for one, and it is because the flange hole does not line up wit the hole in the head. I have no idea why since 14 other bolts went in easily. The guide pins look like they screw in, is this true? Could I remove them and insert bolts? |
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its really not mandatory to have all the bolts in when you put headers on . there was a bolt on each side of my stainless works i could not get in for the same reason. and mine havent leaked in 3 years. too bad the stainless works guys didnt care more about the product they put out . i talked with corey last week and he is gearing up to have headers done and on hand in the near future for those that want a good quality header
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