Powder Coating
Getting ready to start a plenum pull. Was wondering how to get ahold of Jeffvette to inquire about cost for a complete powder coat job in stock color. Plenum, camcovers, injector housingings, etc,etc, all of the silver painted engine parts. My engine is in very good condition, but the glossy silver powder coat Jeff does just looks awsome, and if I'm gonna "go in" I just might have him do the powder coating while it's apart.
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Get the plenum and intake housing ported while it is off the car ;)
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Thank you.
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No sweat. Also as Frank posted above its a smart mod while the plenums off the car.
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Jeff does great work
Marc H is close to you in Chicago(Addison) Also in Indy, you are in the performance center of the universe |
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Lgaff offers a lower cost porting alternative and he is in Chicagoland area.
Just an FYI. |
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But LGAFF and Marc H both use paint not Powder coat..
Marc H. paint work is very nice as is Jeff's PC work |
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Precision powder coating did mine. And it will be done in two weeks. And look incredible. Some of the members have seen what mine looks like. If you want I can send you pics. Unless you've already made your mind up.
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Haven't made any decisions yet. Shoot over the pics.
I work for Tony Stewart Racing and have a large variety of sources for just about any automotive/performance related service. My main objective is to make it look stock, but have a nice shine. (I know the original didn't have a big shine!) Color matching is also a priority. |
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Lingenfelter sells a matched color spray paint. Use a high temp clear coat and it will shine. ATSZR1 did this to his motor and it looks great.
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I've used the Lingenfelter spray bomb on a couple of ZR-1's that a friend owned and wanted detailed. Even though it was spray bomb, it worked very well. Certainly not as durable as a powder coating, but the two cars I did with it came out very nicely. McClellan couldn't tell they had been touched when he judge them at the gathering.:)
I just talked to the guy who does all of our powder coating here at Tony's shop and he said he had a bunch of silvers to choose from. He'll do my parts for next to nothing, but a low cost job is worthless if anything gets screwed up. My big concern is damaging the cam covers! |
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yep need to protect those machined surfaces but your powder coater at work should be able to handle that.
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http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/n...70/finish2.jpg http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/n...70/finish3.jpg http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/n.../finished1.jpg http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/n...0/100_0116.jpg http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/n...0/100_0115.jpg |
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Looks great. As long as it's prepped correctly, it will never come off in our lifetime. The best surface for adhesion is a sandblasted surface.
My powder coater also uses an iron phosphate wash after sandblasting. This will prevent the coating from ever peeling IF you ever get a chip in it. I have done around 12 frame off restorations using powder coating of the chassis on each one. I also do other pieces like brake pedal assemblies, latches, etc. Most pieces are black except the wheels. I have also done Dymags with good success. Good luck on your project! |
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John at http://precisionpowder.net/ was great. We sat down and found the color that look as close to stock as possible. And went through and marked what needed to be masked. He called me often and kept me informed on the progress.
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Those are the results I'm looking for. Very nice job.;)
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What did you use on the lettering? On the ones I've done, I painted in the black without regard to getting out of the boundary, then immediately take a soft cotton cloth with a very mild reducer and rub over the surface. Then afte a full cure, a mild polishing compound over the full surface.
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The letters were also powder coated on with and air brush then baked. It wasn't cheap but I'm so glad I had it done. Greasy hand prints just wipe right off like non stick coating. A year later it still looks the same. John charged me $598 for it. The color was anodized silver. Tiger Drylac brand.
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I like the L00k rhipster !
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To me it was a no brainer. I wanted it to look good and last a long long time and not flake off after 5 or 6 years. I fell over backward when I saw the bill. But after I saw how good it look I forgot about the price.
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Can the driver side cam cover be removed without discharging the AC?
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http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/n...Picture049.jpg Here's what it looks like when everything is off and ready to go to the powder coaters. http://s301.photobucket.com/albums/n...t=100_0014.flv |
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I am trying out a guy locally, he is doing my Dymags, he offered to do a plenum for $100-$150
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As a "newbie" to the ZR-1, I have a few questions about powder coating the plenum etc.
I don't have the luxury of using some of these amazing shops that have been shown on the forum, so I'm hoping to get my stuff powder coated this winter by a local shop. I have been doing some research of local shops to see who does the best work and was looking for suggestions on what all I should look for in their powder coating practice? I know the obvious stuff like making sure all faces, ports, etc are taped or plugged, but is there anything else you would suggest? Mainly things in their process that would wreck my parts... I looked at shipping costs for my parts to Pacific Northwest ZR-1 and the cheapest rate is $200.00 and it takes about 5 years to get there, so this isn't an option. One last thing, did you remove the old emblem off the valve covers before coating and just replaced them with new ones afterwards?? |
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http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/n...emblems001.jpg http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/n...emblems002.jpg http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/n.../052510010.jpg http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/n.../052510023.jpg http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/n.../052510008.jpg |
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