Re: Clutch slave.
 

Rick,

Why not put a stainless insert in the old slave cylider like they do the C3 brakes? Anyone have a source for the plunger rubber???

Will

Re: Clutch slave.
 

Exactly, but you know as well as I do it would not be out of titanium. Maybe TIN coated but unsure of what brake fluid would do? Some 316 might be hard enough for the weak, 304 for better corrosion or how about some 4130 heat treated. Hell cast iron would work and use a steel or brass Holley jet for flow control.

Re: Clutch slave.
 

If you could find an old Wagner book, they list all their parts by size in the back index.:-D

Re: Clutch slave.
 

In due time my friends in due time. Parker Orings are some of the best http://www.parker.com/portal/site/PA...0048021dacRCRD

Re: Clutch slave.
 

Even machining a new one from SS you'll still have the geometry problem of the pistong hitting the cylinder. This is a known problem from discussions involving Hib. (see archives of the net list)
I suppose a screw-in replacement would make it easier but....
a fix to the geometry would be better.

Re: Clutch slave.
 

I guess I'm not quite sure what you mean by the piston hitting the cylinder. Do you mean the piston rubbing the inside of the cylinder or the rod lining up with the clutch fork? Or do you mean the piston is to sloppy of a fit inside the cylinder on the ones we buy? All of those are easy fixes if thats the case. This time I ended up with a cast iron slave. If this one fails prematurely then you can bet I'll design and make a custom one for my Z and if it holds up for at least three monthes with no problems then I will become a supporting vender and make them for you guys. Could be good for some extra beer money.

Re: Clutch slave.
 

For starters, checkout the "Common Issues" (#21,#25 & #26) area off the main page if you haven't read it all yet? Then there are more problems somewhere about bad newly manufactured replacements, I think from TRW?:-(**|=

Re: Clutch slave.
 

Re: Clutch slave.
 

I remember the talk I had with Bill B via e-mail back in 05. He had mentioned there was also a geometry issue with the position of the M/C for the system. He found that the spacer GM used is not creating level travel of the M/C's piston, thus wearing the seal because it travels thru an arch rather than a dead flat line. He was considering the issue and what angle to remake the spacer to correct the OEM spacer's error.

In his opinion, the original spacer is just a degree or two off. He said that they didn't account for the fire wall being angled at the mounting point.