ZR-1 Net Registry Forums - The Dreaded No Start

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- - The Dreaded No Start (http://zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?t=20465)

Re: The Dreaded No Start

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bearly Flying (Post 175646)

I have recently began having problems with my 91 not starting, altho in my case it seems to be when the engine is cold , it won't start, once the engine is warm, it will start.
Battery tested out OK, I had another battery approx 1 year old I switched into the car, No difference.
When I turn the key, I can hear what I believe is the starter solenoid click with the clutch depressed. If I let the clutch out part way, there is nothing, no clicks from the solenoid. So I believe the clutch switch is working properly.
The security light does not come on while trying to start the car. So the VAT system shouldn't be at fault.
After repeated attempts at hitting the starter, it will engage enough to slightly rock the engine, a couple more cycles of the key and it will generally start normally.
I suspect it may be the contacts in the starter itself are arc'ed, but I thought I would check with the Experts to get your thoughts before diving into that Plenum for my first time.

In that regard ;)

1. Starter Contacts.
I had a NO START condition on this 90' and after I towed it for a start....got home and it fired right up. I would have liked to hot wire the starter (purple wire) when that happens to see if it is the starter or starter ground circuit. Or check that purple wire for 12 volts when I turn the switch to start. I lean toward ground circuit or sticky starter solenoid. Another indication would be if when you turn the ignition key to start do the lights dim for example indicating a current draw to the starter solenoid/starter.

If the solenoid does not move (no clicking indicating the Starter Solenoid moved) as in my case then a sticky Solenoid or Solenoid Ground Connection. If the Solenoid clicked/moved...then bad Solenoid contacts or bad connection Battery cable (Positive) to starter/battery or bad ground (Negative) engine to battery.

Installed a relay in the start circuit of the 90' identical to what I have on the 91'. This is one of those intermittent issues and does sound like poor electrical connections in either the Starter Negative Connections or Starter Positive Connections.
Starter Relay, Wiring Harness, Battery, and Plugs Tricks

The Starter Solenoid is shown in the left photo with slight burnt contacts in right photo.
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/l...1f498e4d50.jpg http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/l...9e22f85e0a.jpg

The Solenoid contacts in left photo were wire brushed clean in right photo.
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/l...57c17fc6a2.jpg http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/l...a552901435.jpg

Complete Starter Disassembly.
Photo provided by mgbrv8 Complete starter rebuild by mgbrv8 (Dave)
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/l...ec8a45ee43.jpg

Re: The Dreaded No Start

The Starter clicks every time I turn the key, and the lights on the radio, center panel will go out momentarily and the Radio aerial will cycle. So it appears to be drawing power to the starter

Re: The Dreaded No Start

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bearly Flying (Post 175666)

The Starter clicks every time I turn the key, and the lights on the radio, center panel will go out momentarily and the Radio aerial will cycle. So it appears to be drawing power to the starter

You need to make sure the battery is not "soft" or that the ground from the battery to the car is not rusted. If these are ok then look to the starter.
One thing to do is measure the voltage right at the battery posts (not the connector but right on the battery) when the key is turned.

Re: The Dreaded No Start

Scott; When I connected to the battery posts it was showing 12.5 volts.
Turn the key to the ON position, voltage dropped to 12.1
Turn the key to the START position, voltage drops to 11.8
Solenoid clicked but didn't engage.

Re: The Dreaded No Start

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bearly Flying (Post 175682)

Battery seem ok, you're right.
Still a toss up then between clutch switch and starter.
Try depressing the clutch several times when cold and before engaging the starter. Hold the peddle all the way down and still. If that helps then bypass the clutch switch (temporarily) by jumpering around it. I say that because you don't want to have to pull the starter until your sure that's it.

Re: The Dreaded No Start

Like others, I chased this problem for some time. I reluctantly installed the relay modification to provide 12V directly to the starter, but it did not solve the problem long term (still intermittent no starts when hot). I just had Marc replace the starter which I believe is the only real solution to the "dreaded no start" (provided the clutch switch and starter enabler relay are functioning).

Re: The Dreaded No Start

ZR1North; That's kinda my problem except Mine will start when it's hot, won't start when it has been sitting..

Scott; I will try pumping the clutch.

Thanks for your help on this.

Re: The Dreaded No Start

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bearly Flying (Post 175718)

ZR1North; That's kinda my problem except Mine will start when it's hot, won't start when it has been sitting..

Scott; I will try pumping the clutch.

Thanks for your help on this.

That is a bit odd for the dreaded no-start issue, BF. The starter problem will manifest itself even after the car has been shut down for a while since it is subject to heat soak, but I assume your reference to "sitting" is to do with a very long shut down or overnight situation. If so, I agree that you probably have other or additional issues than just the starter. Others have identified the likely culprits. Good luck!

Re: The Dreaded No Start

Scott; Tried pumping the clutch as you suggested. No luck.

Re: The Dreaded No Start

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bearly Flying (Post 175781)

Scott; Tried pumping the clutch as you suggested. No luck.

Time to test by a jumper around the clutch swithc but it's looking like starter :(