Re: spark knock problem
 

Dom, I use the T/Q spec in the FSM. If memory serves me, and usually that's not the case as I look it up before I do the change. I think it's around 19 Nms or maybe 22 Nms.

This is my first aluminum motored car so I will admit to a larger percentage of error on my part. Putting plugs in an iron head vs an aluminum head the 'feel' of the threads to me is different when bringing the T/Q to spec. I know that is preposterous, but to me the 'feel' is different in your hand from the wrench.
:o

Anyway, all's well now and I'm back in 'love' with my girl! She ran very well on Sunday. :sign10:

:cheers:
Tom

Re: spark knock problem
 

I'll tell you this much Cliff, the car ran so bad past say 4k that I was thinking that I had really big problems. It was just terrible to hear! Strange as this seems the plugs that I took out showed no signs of anything wrong. The electrodes and center insulator were intact, no pits or anything amiss. They were a uniform medium brown color shaded on one side. I will post pictures if it would be of use?

To look at the old plugs you would say maybe the fuel was a wee bit fat, maybe as my plugs usually on an annual change schedule look about what new plugs look like.

I also say this much too. I'm fairly sure I will never get the hang of using antiseize. I used to check the plugs at random intervals and I would find them a bit loose. It was annoying. That's why I switched to what was on the OEM plugs, just a light coat of oil. I got better results with the oil for getting them not to be loose. I suspect that I will buy one of those new T/Q digital wrenches for future use. I have this fear of pulling the threads as the feel to me is so different than tightening the plugs in an iron head. I know, I'm just nucking futs!

:cheers:
Tom