Re: 95 ZR1 Oil Leak Question
I closely checked the grommets and can find no signs of oil leaking there. It is bone dry around the grommets. I discovered the cam cover bolts were not very tight and snugged all of them up but still , oil is collecting in those spaces. That would leave the the only other source being the injector housing to head connection. This area is wet and I was hoping the oil was coming from else where. It still strikes me as odd with this being the intake, this area should be in vacuum.
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Re: 95 ZR1 Oil Leak Question
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In answere to your other question on CF regarding Cam Cover Removal engine in car...... Cam cover bolt removal tools Cam Cover Installation Tricks Cam Cover Vent Material Removing cam cover bolts Cam cover bolt washers Cam cover dowty washers Cam cover vent material Cam cover SS vent material Cam cover sealant A136 Cam Cover Filters In regard to removing Cam Covers Engine In Car, you have to make sure you keep solid pressure on the Torx or Allen if you have replaced Torx with Allen. And yes...there IS room to lift up and over.....the hard part is cleaning up the mating surfaces of oil especially the end camshaft rubber grommets and reapplying Loctite 518 Use of thread Lubricants, Loctite and Sealants |
Re: 95 ZR1 Oil Leak Question
I'm just curious if you figured out the source of the oil leak. I noticed mine is smoking on the passenger side of the engine, like from an oil leak. It just started doing this after starting it after it's winter nap. I checked the oil and thought maybe I dripped some on the exhaust manifold but it's still smoking on that side, not bad but not normal either. I drove the car and it seemed to stop, but I started it today and it's doing the same thing. I better check the grommet mentioned also.
Joe |
Re: 95 ZR1 Oil Leak Question
My leaks are coming from the fuel injector plenum to head interface. For some reason it seems all these screws/bolts are prone to loosening. I checked one I could get to and it was finger tight. My cam cover bolts were also loose. The previous owner had some work done. Two the the new header bolts had actually backed out about 1/4". The problem is many of these bolts either cant be properly torqued to begin with or can't be re-torqued after assembly like the injector housing bolts. I purchased a gasket kit from Jerry's and am planning on replacing the intake plenum and housing gaskets.
Funny thing is when I drive it it doesn't really leak because the intake should be in a vacuum, when I park it and let it sit, the oil accumulates in those spaces. That tells me I may have some very loose bolts for the oil just to flow out like that not under pressure. Like I said, I found one that was finger tight. When I get there and find the bolts are really loose, I may just re torque them and just replace the upper intake gaskets. The upper plenum looks easy to remove but the lower FI housing looks like it could be a pain with the injector assembly etc. Let me know how it goes. |
Re: 95 ZR1 Oil Leak Question
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I took them out and put lock washers on them. |
Re: 95 ZR1 Oil Leak Question
I wouldn't suspect using thread locker on aluminum heads would bea good idea either.
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Re: 95 ZR1 Oil Leak Question
Thanks for the information I really appreciate it. Let me know if that corrects the leak. I checked the cam covers bolts and they are tight. I tightend the hose clamp on the grommet because that was a little loose. I noticed oil on the intake manifold but it was forward of that so I don't think that's the issue, but who knows. I'm a beginner when it comes to this engine. I've only had the car about 10 months and I haven't driven it much.
Take Care, Joe |
Re: 95 ZR1 Oil Leak Question
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vacuum: air & fuel, intake pressure: coolant pressure or vacuum; oil, crankcase ventilation, depending on operating condition. Bolt loosening develops over time as a result of gasket compressibility and rebound characteristics. Bolts get loosen from vibration and differential thermal expansion and is exacerbated when gaskets lose rebound. Thread locker helps to prevent bolt loosening. GM recommends both medium (242) & high (262) strength Loctite for use in the LT5. Loctite developed #243, a medium strength (blue) compound that has a higher gel strength and works better on oily threads than 242. I recommend Loctite 243 for use on the Crankcase Ventilation Cover and Injector Housing bolts. Although removing the bolts & properly reinstalling with Loctite 242 or 243 will generally solve the problem, new gaskets will help to insure complete sealing, especially where the Injector Housing/Cylinder Head inteface is concerned. There is portential for gasket deterioration that can result in vacuum leaks, and coolant leaks that can go undetected but inhibit performance. We do stock 10ml Loctite 243 as well as 242, 262 & 565. |
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