Re: Plenum pull advice
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I did a lot today and stated on the starter and found a couple weak bearing and found my contact problem.
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Re: Plenum pull advice
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I have a question about the these injectors what are the part number of the seals??
Dave |
Re: Plenum pull advice
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http://jerrysgaskets.com/store2/root...roducts_id=384 http://jerrysgaskets.com/store2/root...roducts_id=385 BUNA (for 100% gasoline) http://jerrysgaskets.com/store2/root...products_id=34 http://jerrysgaskets.com/store2/root...products_id=21 |
Re: Plenum pull advice
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Thanks Jerry
Well it looks like Im going to need a new charcoal canister Dave |
Re: Plenum pull advice
Regarding the starter, I seem to recall some discussion on the board suggesting starter electrical contacts issues begin showing up on some cars at about the 30k miles. At 40k, the copper ring on the solenoid "slider" in my '90 was quite pitted and carbon-looking tracing covering the surface was nearly complete. AND! The contact posts were badly erroded.
I bought a kit off ebay and discovered that (new) thrust pin (that pushes the starter gear to mesh with the ring gear) was about 5mm short . So, I used the new contact posts, but R&R'd the copper ring on the original slider with some emory cloth. Works fine now for another 25k miles so far. As for the bearings being "weak", that hasn't come up, long as I've watched this site, FWIW, some 5 years now. Enjoy your toy! P. |
Re: Plenum pull advice
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There's lots of good tips already on this post (and a few not so good) I'm not going to suggest a lot of modifications or ripping stuff out but I will suggest you check the operation of the secondary actuators by putting a vacuum on them. Watch that the pull all the way out and do so at relatively the same time. AND cut yourself a set of rubber plenum gaskets. They can be used over and over and over for a decade or more without ripping apart and having to repeatedly buy new ones. I used an inner tube in 99 and have never had to replace them. Or you can buy some flat rubber stock. There are sites that sell it. I do find it easier to drain fluid by just opening the drain plug. Who needs radiator fluid in the mouth. I've also used a suction device straight in the fill tank but still the drain is easier. The bolts holding the plenum can mix and match. No need to track exactly which hole they went in. Not so for the water pump. I see you have a pic of a new water pump. There is I think three different size bolts use and 18 total. (weird). The one that goes through the AC into the water pump is the most unusual and one of the ones that goes into the head is reallll short. Don't put a long one there ! Sure brings back memories seeing the inside of the starter again. I just sanded and polished the ring and contacts. Good to go. Be very careful reconnecting the rear electrical connections to the plenum. Don't smash/bend a pin on the wide one. |
Re: Plenum pull advice
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I am pepping for tomorrow inspecting new and old parts to make sure everything is in order, and making some gaskets out of some sheets of 1/16 Polysiloxane silicon I have around. I have one more bearing to come in and the starter can go back together. I also have made some plates to go on on the pcv vent plumbing to help hold the assembly together.
Dave :cheers: |
Re: Plenum pull advice
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I would appreciate that immensely :handshak: You take excellent pictures :thumbsup: Especially the parts lay out. Without labeling or mentioning anything, a Parts Lay Out Photo is priceless by itself :thumbsup: mgbrv8 Photos of LT5 Starter Parts (March 2013) From mgbrv8 Plenum Pull to Rebuild a Starter http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/l...a6cc140db5.jpg http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/l...R1/Starter.jpg Thanks, Cliff |
Re: Plenum pull advice
Of course its okay Dynomite. I know I need to label all the pics but I am kinda wrapped up in the logistics of the job right now, I will once it all done. My club has a lot of fun events and trips this month and I want it to be ready and reliable in time.
Dave:cheers: |
Re: Plenum pull advice
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