Oil Pressure Switch

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Originally Posted by Dynomite

Oil Pressure Sensor Dash Gauge

Thanks Cliff!

[HAWAIIZR-1]

The oil pressure sensor dash gauge was by far the quickest (5 minutes?) and easiest thing to replace in my 12 years of owning ZR-1s. It took less than5 minutes to replace, but the plastic was so brittle on the old one it broke apart and separated from the metal base.

[Rd.adam@hotmail.com]

Will a bad oil pressure switch cause a NO START problem ?

Hi, I have 2 ZR-1's, both 1990. I was in hospital for several months, etc, and anyways both cars sat for 3-4 years.
Got the black car started briefly, it ran barely for a few minutes, seemed to come around better, then quit. Fuel tank was dry. Assumed faulty fuel pump so changed them out. Car has never fired since.
Pulled 8 plugs out, they all have spark, even though it seems a bit on weaker side. Put fuel pressure gauge on rail,it seems fine, about 50-55 lbs while cranking engine. Still won't start, will not even fire.
Also, have bypassed vats system using a GM dealer vats interrogator black box. Still won't fire.
Any suggestions ?

Also on my red car, it always cranks over, bypassed vats system, it will sometimes fire up. Took it for drive of 10 miles, it had maybe 100 hp or less. My mechanic then cut out catalytic converters, now it starts only when battery connects directly to the purple wire. The car now will not seem to rev up, and backfires a bit. Shut it off, then it will refuse to start until several attempts made.
Both cars were sitting 3-4 years. I even tried swapping ecm's, did not make any difference.
Any suggestions ?
Thanks
Rd.adam@hotmail.com
Dean Adam

[ghlkal]

Originally Posted by mgbrv8

I heard some horror stories about removing the Oil pressure switch on our motors.


if you lay on top of the engine from the driver side you can reach your left hand in very easily.

OK ... TTT


Of the three methods I've seen, this is the one I'm trying ...



I cannot get the socket to align with the sensor no matter what I try. I guess my socket is a little too long, or I can't flex the head of the ratchet enough.




Here's my question, let's imagine I get the old sensor off. How in the world would I be able to align and screw in the new sensor?




[BTW,

(1)I think unbolting the mount and lifting the right side of the engine won't work because of my beam plate making the engine/tranny/diff one stiff piece
(2)removing the oil filter housing looks even more scary. I have one oil line off (it was on there with more than 40lb/ft for sure!), but I'm not sure how to remove the lower line without removing the adapter. And then, if I do get the filter housing unbolted, can I twist it enough to reach the adapter, and then what about a gasket, and locktite for the sensors, and how do I seal the adapter, and ..
(3)so, I really want to get Dave's way to work ... help]

[mgbrv8]

With this technique its not hard to hold it with your hand and screw it in and then get the wrench to tighten it


Dave

Originally Posted by ghlkal

OK ... TTT


Of the three methods I've seen, this is the one I'm trying ...



I cannot get the socket to align with the sensor no matter what I try. I guess my socket is a little too long, or I can't flex the head of the ratchet enough.




Here's my question, let's imagine I get the old sensor off. How in the world would I be able to align and screw in the new sensor?




[BTW,

(1)I think unbolting the mount and lifting the right side of the engine won't work because of my beam plate making the engine/tranny/diff one stiff piece
(2)removing the oil filter housing looks even more scary. I have one oil line off (it was on there with more than 40lb/ft for sure!), but I'm not sure how to remove the lower line without removing the adapter. And then, if I do get the filter housing unbolted, can I twist it enough to reach the adapter, and then what about a gasket, and locktite for the sensors, and how do I seal the adapter, and ..
(3)so, I really want to get Dave's way to work ... help]

[ghlkal]

Originally Posted by mgbrv8

With this technique its not hard to hold it with your hand and screw it in and then get the wrench to tighten it

Thanks Dave. I didn't think my hands were _that_ big, but it's really tight. I will take a deep breath and try again tomorrow.

[mgbrv8]

I understand it’s not ideal but it’s the lesser of the evils as they say.

Dave

Originally Posted by ghlkal

Thanks Dave. I didn't think my hands were _that_ big, but it's really tight. I will take a deep breath and try again tomorrow.

[ghlkal]

Thanks again for the tip Dave.


I was actually able to replace the switch, and the easiest part was reaching in with the switch and getting it started. I may have been too cautious about tightening the switch, I stopped once the last thread disappeared. I fired it up for a few minutes and there's no leak. Of course, I need to run it up to temperature and continue to check it, but that's a job for tomorrow.

[mmkkpro]

Man, you guys ROCK. My 1990 just did this. No way to get to it from below, so from the top I go. I unplugged the switch and the connector is full of oil. Ordered one from Jerry a few minutes ago. Figure I will modify my sensor socket and may even try the wire trick. I took my motor mount nuts off, but engine will not budge, afraid to jack it up too hard. Thank you guys for all the ideas, it's a giant help.

[secondchance]

Originally Posted by mmkkpro

Man, you guys ROCK. My 1990 just did this. No way to get to it from below, so from the top I go. I unplugged the switch and the connector is full of oil. Ordered one from Jerry a few minutes ago. Figure I will modify my sensor socket and may even try the wire trick. I took my motor mount nuts off, but engine will not budge, afraid to jack it up too hard. Thank you guys for all the ideas, it's a giant help.

Paitience and make sure the motor is cool. May the force be with you!