ZR-1 Net Registry Forums  

Go Back   ZR-1 Net Registry Forums > C4 ZR-1 > C4 ZR-1 Technical Postings

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 11-25-2020   #1
Wigert
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Sweden
Posts: 73
Default Bushing replacement support

Hey everyone!

Ones again I am asking for your support. I have started replacing the rear bushings, on the control arms and spindle rods.

After snugging everything down on one side, it seems to be too tight... Now the nuckle hangs free and I cannot by hand push it down to install the shock or sway bar...

My first question is applying lube. I did not put lube between the control arm and the bushing. Only between the bushing and the sleeve. I followed a guide on corvettecentral that stated the it was appropriate. It seems reasonable that the movement should be around the sleeve. But I have seen other videos where they lubed everything... What's your take on this?

The second question is bushing it self. Should I have sanded it down to be flush with the sleeve? Now I think several of the bushings extend slightly outside the sleeve. If I then tighten the bolts and clamp down on the bushing outside, it will of course require mush effort if the bushing is supposed rotate around the sleeve...

Suggestions on how to proceed?

Regards
ChrisIMG_20201125_203945.jpgIMG_20201125_204006.jpg

Sent from my EVR-L29 using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app
Wigert is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-25-2020   #2
32valvZ
 
32valvZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Sunshine State
Posts: 1,071
Default Re: Bushing replacement support

Actually, I believe the tightening procedure is to tighten everything with the suspension loaded, so the car sitting on the tires on the ground. I lubed everything when I assembled mine. I did not sand any of the bushings.

I would loosen it all back up, get the shock and sway bar mounted up and sit the car down on the ground, then torque it to specs.

I assume youre using poly bushings....
__________________
[B]1990 #2815[/B]
[COLOR="Red"][B]Red/Red[/B][/COLOR]
Ported Plenum & IH (by Pete)
Haibeck Chip
Rebuilt FPR (by Phil)
FIC Injectors
Watson LT Headers
3" Stainless Works exhaust
Lingenfelter Open Air Lid
Bill B Built Transmission
Shifter & C Beam Plates


[FONT=Impact][COLOR=red]1992 [COLOR=black]#[/COLOR] 091[/COLOR][/FONT]
[FONT=Impact][COLOR=#ff0000]Red/[COLOR=silver]Gray[/COLOR][/COLOR][/FONT]
[B]SOLD[/B]
32valvZ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-26-2020   #3
Wigert
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Sweden
Posts: 73
Default Re: Bushing replacement support

Quote:
Originally Posted by 32valvZ View Post
Actually, I believe the tightening procedure is to tighten everything with the suspension loaded, so the car sitting on the tires on the ground. I lubed everything when I assembled mine. I did not sand any of the bushings.

I would loosen it all back up, get the shock and sway bar mounted up and sit the car down on the ground, then torque it to specs.

I assume youre using poly bushings....
Thanks for the input! When I did some reading it seemed that the tightening of urethane bushings would not require the nuckle to be at ride height as the original rubber since the poly allows rotation while the rubber did not. But it seems that this may not work practically.

I went with prothane poly urethane bushings.

Okay so you lubed between the control arm and the bushing as well?



Sent from my EVR-L29 using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app
Wigert is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-26-2020   #4
32valvZ
 
32valvZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Sunshine State
Posts: 1,071
Default Re: Bushing replacement support

Ya I know that the rubber bushings have a different function and the bind theyre in after torquing is meant to act as a pre load.

Thing is, with suspension, you should assemble everything and snug the bolts, letting everything be able to move still. Once its all together, then you can torque it all to spec. At least thats the way I learned how to do it. Thats also how I did mine on my 90. I used poly as well.

I really used allot of the grease and in fact bought an extra tub of it for assembly. I put it on every part of the bushing and any surface that would potentially bind.

Its been a couple of years now and I still have no squeaks and the car rides well.
__________________
[B]1990 #2815[/B]
[COLOR="Red"][B]Red/Red[/B][/COLOR]
Ported Plenum & IH (by Pete)
Haibeck Chip
Rebuilt FPR (by Phil)
FIC Injectors
Watson LT Headers
3" Stainless Works exhaust
Lingenfelter Open Air Lid
Bill B Built Transmission
Shifter & C Beam Plates


[FONT=Impact][COLOR=red]1992 [COLOR=black]#[/COLOR] 091[/COLOR][/FONT]
[FONT=Impact][COLOR=#ff0000]Red/[COLOR=silver]Gray[/COLOR][/COLOR][/FONT]
[B]SOLD[/B]
32valvZ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2020   #5
Wigert
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Sweden
Posts: 73
Default Re: Bushing replacement support

Quote:
Originally Posted by 32valvZ View Post
Ya I know that the rubber bushings have a different function and the bind theyre in after torquing is meant to act as a pre load.

Thing is, with suspension, you should assemble everything and snug the bolts, letting everything be able to move still. Once its all together, then you can torque it all to spec. At least thats the way I learned how to do it. Thats also how I did mine on my 90. I used poly as well.

I really used allot of the grease and in fact bought an extra tub of it for assembly. I put it on every part of the bushing and any surface that would potentially bind.

Its been a couple of years now and I still have no squeaks and the car rides well.
Okay so I am a bit embarrassed to admit this but I initially put the lower control arm in the position of the shock mount point on the nuckle. It created an awkward angle and restricted the movement. An easy switch to the correct hole corrected everything and now the movement is smooth.

Did you change the u-joints on the half shafts? I have significant rust and not sure if I dare to use significant force to remove the bolts while risking breaking them or stripping the threads. Any thought?

Thanks for the support so far!

Sent from my EVR-L29 using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app
Wigert is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-02-2020   #6
32valvZ
 
32valvZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Sunshine State
Posts: 1,071
Default Re: Bushing replacement support

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wigert View Post
Okay so I am a bit embarrassed to admit this but I initially put the lower control arm in the position of the shock mount point on the nuckle. It created an awkward angle and restricted the movement. An easy switch to the correct hole corrected everything and now the movement is smooth.

Did you change the u-joints on the half shafts? I have significant rust and not sure if I dare to use significant force to remove the bolts while risking breaking them or stripping the threads. Any thought?

Thanks for the support so far!

Sent from my EVR-L29 using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app
I did not do my U-Joints.... You can try using penetrating oil/spray and soak the rusty bolts for a day or so and see if that helps loosen up the rust.
__________________
[B]1990 #2815[/B]
[COLOR="Red"][B]Red/Red[/B][/COLOR]
Ported Plenum & IH (by Pete)
Haibeck Chip
Rebuilt FPR (by Phil)
FIC Injectors
Watson LT Headers
3" Stainless Works exhaust
Lingenfelter Open Air Lid
Bill B Built Transmission
Shifter & C Beam Plates


[FONT=Impact][COLOR=red]1992 [COLOR=black]#[/COLOR] 091[/COLOR][/FONT]
[FONT=Impact][COLOR=#ff0000]Red/[COLOR=silver]Gray[/COLOR][/COLOR][/FONT]
[B]SOLD[/B]
32valvZ is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:08 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright ZR-1 Net Registry 2020