Winter storage and fuel stabilizers: Snake oil?

[Paul Workman]

I used to use Sea Foam in my lawnmowers and snow blowers and weed whackers, generator, etc - stuff that sat all winter. Then it got pricy (still is), and Sta-Bil (sp?) became available for less, so I switched.

Is the stuff even necessary - stabilizers, I mean - especially if there is ethanol in the fuel? Some say no, but the one year I didn't treat fuel in my motorcycle, come spring the jets in two of the 6 carbs had to have varnish cleaned out of the jets.

Last spring I took my generator to a small engine repair shop and $125 later (labor) I was told, ("I see you used Sta-Bil in your fuel. You don't want to be using Sta-Bil.") So, I asked him what he recommended, and he said Sea Foam. Suspicious, I asked him if he sold Sea Foam, but instead he suggested WalMart or any auto supply store. (He went on to say the Sta-Bil leaves a chalky residue that plugs up the tiny orifices especially, that small motors tend to have. In fact, I've see a chalky residue in the jets of my pressure washer, but have no proof of what the source is: only the mechanic's word.)

I put a pint of Sea Foam in the Vettes for winter storage, but in spite of that, I make it a point to crank them at least once every 2-3 weeks and let them warm up.

What is your experience with fuel stabilizers? I'm curious, as I'm not entirely convinced yet that the people that sell it didn't have a great grandfather that used to sell snake oil!

[efnfast]

I've used Sta-Bil, with no ill effects I'm aware of. I've used Sea Foam, but not much. Currently I'm using Amsoil's stabilizer, really because I use their products and trust them.

[FU]

I have been using Sta-Bil on boat's , cars , generators, motorcycles for years with no problem at all.


I use Seafoam also in gas tanks , crankcase and throttle body's of used vehicles to clean them up. Followed by an oil & filter change.

[Karl]

I use heat from the parts store and try to drive the car and use the gas in the winter so it does not sit too long.

[xlr8nflorida]

I mix Stabil with Non-Ethanol 93 Fuel.


Been doing that for 12 years in the Z.


I like Sea Foam but don't use it in the ZR-1.


I am running the stock original injectors and am not exactly stock either.


I really only believe in 4 additives as follows:


Stabil
BG44K
Chevron Techron
Sea Foam


The BG44k is way better than the Sea Foam though. Every time I do it on my C5, you can feel it in the seat of the pants acceleration - feels like about 20HP.

[xlr8nflorida]

keep the mice out of vehicle and engine with BOUNCE

DECON IN SHEDS WHERE THERE ARE NO PETS AROUND OR HIDE THE DECON WHERE ONLY MICE CAN FIND


Not doing disagree but in my experience these are old wives tales.


I put one of my Vettes to sleep in a warehouse, The rats/mice ate a full try of Decon and they took my Bounce Sheets and made a bed underneath the ECM Computer in 2 days - True story.


I decided to sell that car rather than store it.

[Marc Haibeck]

I have not seen evidence that Sta-Bil is necessary.

Back in the '60's fuel had a short shelf life. It could start turning into gum in as little a four months. Today I don't see any sign of gum formation in fuel that is two years old.

I think that it is not necessary to do anything with fuel that is to be stored for a year. After two years it's a good idea to drain the fuel and install fresh fuel.

Keep the fuel tank filled to the top to suppress water condensation.

Personally, I remove the fuel from seasonal equipment and store it dry. Just siphon out the fuel. Then run the motor until it runs out of gas.

[Paul Workman]

Originally Posted by xlr8nflorida

keep the mice out of vehicle and engine with BOUNCE

DECON IN SHEDS WHERE THERE ARE NO PETS AROUND OR HIDE THE DECON WHERE ONLY MICE CAN FIND


Not doing disagree but in my experience these are old wives tales.


I put one of my Vettes to sleep in a warehouse, The rats/mice ate a full try of Decon and they took my Bounce Sheets and made a bed underneath the ECM Computer in 2 days - True story.


I decided to sell that car rather than store it.

I agree on the Decon. Empty Decon tray, and turquoise (Decon colored) turds scattered around the console and on top of the engine told me that stuff was not going to do the job. A feed store owner recommended "One Bite" instead. I had a serious infestation (live on a farm property) and the One Bite was a completely different experience.

As for the Bounce sheets..., I don't know. They do make the car smell like it just came out of the dryer tho!

Originally Posted by Marc Haibeck

I have not seen evidence that Sta-Bil is necessary.

Back in the '60's fuel had a short shelf life. It could start turning into gum in as little a four months. Today I don't see any sign of gum formation in fuel that is two years old.

I think that it is not necessary to do anything with fuel that is to be stored for a year. After two years it's a good idea to drain the fuel and install fresh fuel.

Keep the fuel tank filled to the top to suppress water condensation.

Personally, I remove the fuel from seasonal equipment and store it dry. Just siphon out the fuel. Then run the motor until it runs out of gas.

Thanks for the post, Marc. I've tried additives and also storing seasonal stuff dry. The jury is still out.

I have 8 "seasonal use" motors, ranging from two-stroke yard machines to the 2 Vettes. I can say I've had to overhaul the carb on a generator (x2) a pressure washer, and one (big) motorcycle in the past 10 years, after winter storage; all had fuel(?) gumming issues.

The small engine mechanic in town made the first mention against the Sta-bil product I'd heard. And I did find the white chalky residue in one of the Briggs & Straton motors that he referred to, but hesitate to say it was Sta-bil that caused it.

With and without Sta-bil I've had problems, none (yet) with Sea Foam, but I can't assume the fuel was never at fault in the equation. But, I seem to have had more storage issues than I care to.

I'm not totally sold on the run dry approach. Maybe I'll give that another try. (But, it tickles my curiosity why if modern fuel, as you say, does not have stability issues, why run seasonal motors dry? My thought being evaporating the fuel completely out would cause any non-fuel gunk to precipitate - which is what that chalky stuff looks like, as it settles in the low side of tubes and the float bowl...)

The only thing that seems to work 100% is to run the motors once or (better) twice a month and let them warm up. And, on the other hand there are those that quote various sources saying starting a cold motor is very bad Ju-ju. I don't know why starting a cold LT5 (with AMO 10W-40 full synthetic oil) every couple weeks, just because it is winter is really all that much different than in summer months. (But, I will run a heater under the car for an hour or so...just because it might be better if the oil were a bit warmer.)

It seems like a good topic to do a scientific test on and a followup article. Any takers??

[Dynomite]

1. Install the Battery Disconnect Switch and Disconnect the Battery.
2. Fill the gas tank.
3. Make sure antifreeze is good for at least -15 deg F (3-1/2 balls floating).
4. Park the ZR-1s on floor mats to prevent condensation on a bare unheated concrete floor.
5. Use about 5 sheets of bounce poked into the Plenum Runners.
6. Use a Car Cover to keep the car clean which adds to the heating effect.
7. Do NOT start the car during the winter storage.
8. Move to California for 4 months and Drive the CA ZR-1s.

I Disconnect Battery Cables (Negative Cable on ZR1) when vehicles are sitting over a couple weeks. This includes ATVs, Tractors, Trucks, Cars and they ALWAYS fire right up as if a NEW battery when the battery cables are reconnected. CHARGE BATTERY BEFORE DISCONNECTING CABLES.

The Battery Disconnect Switch and Having an Operational Secondary Full Power Switch



Keep the fuel tank filled to the top to suppress water condensation.

I use NO SNAKE OIL treatments in gas/diesel tanks but DO FILL FUEL TANKS before any over winter storage. I have noticed on carbureted ATVs that the jets WILL GET GUMMED UP over a long period of sitting where the gas in the carburetor bowel is allowed to completely evaporate.

In cold climates make sure your coolant antifreeze (GREEN for LT5) is at proper concentration for coldest temperatures.



I do use BOUNCE if for no other reason the interior is FRESH in spring. Assisting BOUNCE make sure the ZR1 interior has NO access for mice and keep ZR1 covered so interior is DARK as mice look for lighted access points.



A moisture barrier will not stop a concrete floor from sweating. It will stop the mitigation of ground water through a slab if done correctly. Sweating is caused by a combination of concrete temperature and weather conditions. If the concrete is cold enough and the temperature and humidity high enough the slab will sweat, regardless of a barrier. I use GETRUNG Flooring on Ebay.



See Winter Storage

[Schrade]

Only over-the-counter I've know of that WASN'T snake oil of some sort, is Trans-X. That stuff seems to permeate the molecular structure of latex and some synthetic elastomers...

CE's are gonna' have to explain to me chemical principles of their product, before I buy it...