Upper Door seals...any hints to make it easier? - ZR-1 Net Registry Forums

billschroeder5842 · 11-20-2016

I'll be tackling my next project over Thanksgiving. I'll be working on the upper door seals as mine are cracked and looking shambly.

Any hints on how to make it easier and better? I watched a few videos on YouTube and it looks pretty straight forward (drilling rivets... really?) once the door panel is removed.

Any help is appreciated?

secondchance · 11-21-2016

Factory used rivets to attach upper door edge outer seal. These rivets have to be drilled out to remove. Tip is to wrap masking tape about 1/8" from the drill bit tip to avoid drilling through the rivet and drilling a hole through the door skin. Line up the metal tabs and make sure they are in the slots before tapping the seal on to the door edge. You will have to rivet new seal to the door to keep them in place.

GOLDCYLON · 11-21-2016

Go slow and take your time. I bought a rivet hand press and reinstalled the new sweeps the factory way. Look at the angle of the new sweeps and try to match the bends by bending the sweeps backwards away from the window because if you don't they will bond to the window when powering down. Might be able good time to replace the felt anti rattle guides as these when they wear out tend to put gouges "lines" cut into the window if not in good order. I would have these on hand just in case. I think the parts house sell these new. I believe it's 2 per window if I remember correctly

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Corvette-OEM...BXoTan&vxp=mtr

billschroeder5842 · 11-27-2016

Well that was a PITA.

Thanks for the advise especially "take it slow" as I don't think there is a way to do this job fast.

The project was pretty straight forward and I complicated things by doing a bunch of "might as well" items like re-taping wires, lubing and cleaning what was not all that dirty.

The worst part was removing the old sweeps after the rivets were drilled and then putting the new ones back.

I did have an anomaly of sorts. After I put everything together, I "tested" everything and found that my passenger window would only drop about 2 inches and with a metallic "Click" stop and would not drop any further. Wierd.

I figured I did something to bind the guide so I began to take the door apart. I discover that I must have over tightened the screw that held the handle trim in plate in place as it extended and was catching on the track. A quick trip to my grinder and with the removing 1/8 inch all back to normal. I'm glad it was easy fix.

RussMcB · 11-27-2016

Quote:

Originally Posted by billschroeder5842

I did have an anomaly of sorts. After I put everything together, I "tested" everything and found that my passenger window would only drop about 2 inches and with a metallic "Click" stop and would not drop any further. Wierd.

I figured I did something to bind the guide so I began to take the door apart. I discover that I must have over tightened the screw that held the handle trim in plate in place as it extended and was catching on the track. A quick trip to my grinder and with the removing 1/8 inch all back to normal. I'm glad it was easy fix.

Ha! That reminded me, same thing here. Can't use a long screw there! :-)

BigJohn · 11-27-2016

Send it to a body shop!

billschroeder5842 · 11-27-2016

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigJohn

Send it to a body shop!

Sacre Bleu!

DRM500RUBYZR-1 · 11-27-2016

You did well doing it yourself!
Great Job!!!

You saved $400- 500 in labor cost by tackling that job yourself.
When those seals crack and break they look HORRIBLE!
You were right to step -up and just get it done!
You also were smart to spend the extra time to handle all of the "while you are here" tasks while the door was opened up!

Marty

billschroeder5842 · 11-27-2016

Quote:

Originally Posted by DRM500RUBYZR-1

You also were smart to spend the extra time to handle all of the "while you are here" tasks while the door was opened up!

Thanks for reaffirming my crazy. I take comfort in being around people who understand "well, as long as you doing this, you might as well do that..."

OCD and ZR1 are really the same disorder.

Fully Vetted · 11-29-2016

Replacing the window stop that keeps the window from going up to far will make that job seem like a walk in the park. Pray you never have to do that. Especially if your trying do it without the special tool that GM sold to get the flat nut off the backside of the window. Anyway...I digress. Congrats on a job well done.

11-20-2016	#1
billschroeder5842 Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: Southlake, TX Posts: 584	Upper Door seals...any hints to make it easier? I'll be tackling my next project over Thanksgiving. I'll be working on the upper door seals as mine are cracked and looking shambly. Any hints on how to make it easier and better? I watched a few videos on YouTube and it looks pretty straight forward (drilling rivets... really?) once the door panel is removed. Any help is appreciated? __________________ Bill Schroeder Texas Proud! 1991 Corvette ZR1 #1388 2015 Challenger Scat Pack Shaker

11-21-2016	#2
secondchance Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: McLean, VA Posts: 3,707	Re: Upper Door seals...any hints to make it easier? Factory used rivets to attach upper door edge outer seal. These rivets have to be drilled out to remove. Tip is to wrap masking tape about 1/8" from the drill bit tip to avoid drilling through the rivet and drilling a hole through the door skin. Line up the metal tabs and make sure they are in the slots before tapping the seal on to the door edge. You will have to rivet new seal to the door to keep them in place.

11-21-2016	#3
GOLDCYLON Join Date: May 2007 Location: Peoria, AZ Posts: 9,153	Re: Upper Door seals...any hints to make it easier? Go slow and take your time. I bought a rivet hand press and reinstalled the new sweeps the factory way. Look at the angle of the new sweeps and try to match the bends by bending the sweeps backwards away from the window because if you don't they will bond to the window when powering down. Might be able good time to replace the felt anti rattle guides as these when they wear out tend to put gouges "lines" cut into the window if not in good order. I would have these on hand just in case. I think the parts house sell these new. I believe it's 2 per window if I remember correctly http://www.ebay.com/itm/Corvette-OEM...BXoTan&vxp=mtr __________________ GOLDCYLON - 91 ZR-1 #2014 GOLDCYLON - 90 ZR-1 #2794, 4L60e (Formerly Schrade's) GOLDCYLON - 11 CTS-V Arizona State Director 91 WHITE/BLACK #2014. 380 P&P&PCed,Ported Heads, Jeal Long tubes, Corsa Exhaust/FIKSE FM-5s /LED TLs, LED Headlights, Front Wilwood 6 piston narrowlite calipers and rear Wilwood caliper street shop mod,CNCed Coolant Pipes,TPI Cvr,Filter cover,Stainless Bolts, DRM/DOM PROM /ZFDOC mod build #102,DRLs,BMAD with stainless Debris Screen,Coplan Air Blaster, Pioneer APP Radio 4,Brey-Krause HB,Sub Bar,Fire extinguisher seat mount,DRM Coilovers,LEDs everywhere,Compass mirror (orange),V1 DIC hidden display, Homelink sun visor, Carbon Fiber top x3 and APSIS Carbon Fiber interior, APSIS CF Steering Wheel/NAPA Leather, Banski trailing arms, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension) ZFDoc drive shaft safety loop, raptor shift light (orange),AO engineering louver front plate, Console seat cushion, 96CE seats with black custom Sheepskins, ss billet catch can,Viper remote entry/alarm,Cragar Rear Louvers,LED side louver lights, Dewitts Radiator with SPAL fans and a Woods 160 T-Stat 90 RED/BLACK #2794. 4L60e Automatic Stage V by RPM Transmission, TCI Dedicated TCM, OBX Stainless Headers, Corsa Exhaust, SAN Secondaries and Haibeck PROM, Exotic Muscle Coil overs, LED Interior Lights, LED Tail Lights, LED Headlights, 94 Sport seats with black custom Sheepskins , Cragar rear louvers, GS Front calipers, Banski Trailing arms, APSIS Carbon Fiber steering wheel, Front and Rear Baer Eradispeeds, DRLs, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension), Dewitt's Raditor with Dual SPAL fans and a Haibeck 170 T-Stat 11 RED/GREY CTS-V Last edited by GOLDCYLON; 11-21-2016 at 08:32 PM.

11-27-2016	#6
BigJohn Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Ledyard,CT Posts: 8,016	Re: Upper Door seals...any hints to make it easier? Send it to a body shop!

11-27-2016	#8
DRM500RUBYZR-1 Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Mullica Hill, New Jersey Posts: 2,566	Re: Upper Door seals...any hints to make it easier? You did well doing it yourself! Great Job!!! You saved $400- 500 in labor cost by tackling that job yourself. When those seals crack and break they look HORRIBLE! You were right to step -up and just get it done! You also were smart to spend the extra time to handle all of the "while you are here" tasks while the door was opened up! Marty

11-29-2016	#10
Fully Vetted Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: Rockwall, Tx Posts: 1,510	Re: Upper Door seals...any hints to make it easier? Replacing the window stop that keeps the window from going up to far will make that job seem like a walk in the park. Pray you never have to do that. Especially if your trying do it without the special tool that GM sold to get the flat nut off the backside of the window. Anyway...I digress. Congrats on a job well done. __________________ _________________ 1994 AB/Grey #141 430 RWHP/392 RWTQ FBI Lyposuction / Secondaries relieved of duty / SW Long Tube Headers / Corsa Exhaust / FIC SS Injectors / MSD Coils / Lightweight Pulleys / Corey tuned B & M Shifter / Aluminum Flywheel / Samco Hoses / Shelby Series One's / C4 No Flex Frame Stiffener BBC - Bling By Carter: Custom ZR-1 Center Caps / Custom Plenum Plate / Air Box Knobs / TB Cover / Oil Filter Cover