Best Rear Wheel Hub Assembly?

[rhipsher]

Originally Posted by secondchance

I thought of the same since I bought a set of NOS hubs for something like $120 each in 2010.
No such luck anymore - all sold out! Looks like they only have front hubs now.

Yes your right. They sold the rears for $199 a piece and the front's for $120 a piece.
I tell you what Ron! I have a set of rear OEM wheel hub assemblies that are used but in very good shape that I'll give to you free. But they are for a 90 Z. I don't know what year yours is. Or if they are interchangeable.

[GOLDCYLON]

Originally Posted by RHanselman

AutoZone Duralast - $77
Timken = $110
GM Dealer = $425

Any recomondations?

I have a low speed noise and vibration on number #140. I'm going to check her out today...

Cheers,
RH

Timken. Make fine other bearings as well.

[rhipsher]

Ron I'd check your suspension bushings. Rubber bushings have only so many good years in them before they get hard and dry rot. Old hard tires will cause balance problems and vibration also. So will worn out inner/outer tie rods/steering rack/ upper/lower ball joints. Look how bad mine was.



And the rear tires were wearing unevenly. It was horrible all the way around and just getting worse. So I over hauled the entire suspension. It drives like a stiff dream now. Every vibration I ever had was gone. I hope yours is just old tires. Good luck.

[RHanselman]

Wow, I didn't even think to ask Doug or Colton...

I usually go to Corvette Recycling for all my stuff but it's been so long, I dropped them out of my crosscheck.

I do have some rubber that needs replacing. Mainly on the rear springs, all the rest looks in pretty good shape. The dog bones are hard to tell unless you get on it a few times and then inspect them. You can see the rub marks on the rubber from their movement in the bracket. I had a big problem with my '91 and she only had a few thousand miles on her at the time. Of course, it's the age that counts...

Glen, I'll put the tires from the 368 car on this weekend and see if there's a big difference. I bet you are right. The tires are like rocks and there is some uneven wearing going on.

I have some Timken's on the way just in case...

Cheers,
RH

[XfireZ51]

Ron

Have u jacked rear end up and tried rocking wheel holding top and bottom?

[RHanselman]

Originally Posted by XfireZ51

Ron

Have u jacked rear end up and tried rocking wheel holding top and bottom?

Yes and she's solid as a rock.

When I test the U-Joints I get a little lash on the right rear but not much... she probably needs a new joint or two...

[rhipsher]

I jacked mine up also and grabbed the top and bottom of the tires and wiggled them also and they felt tight. But underneath they were toast. My rears felt tight also but look at my dog bones when I removed them.


http://static.photobucket.com/player...no1970/yyy.mp4

Of course I have 100 pics of the entire suspension poly rebuild but I wont bore anybody with all that. Just figured Id throw out a few suggestions.

[Corbusa]

show some picture Bra

[rhipsher]

Originally Posted by Corbusa

show some picture Bra

Well I can give you an idea in a few pictures of whats involved. And I'm positive that once you see them you'll be inspired to dive right in.








But I think Dynomite has the rest of it in the how to section.

[sdycke]

An 'electonic ear' can be extremely helpful diagnosing bearing (and many other) noises. Especially easy now that they are wireless. Not expensive considering the time/frustration they save. And you suddenly become an A-list friend to your gear head buddies! Always go with a name brand bearing manufacturer such as Timken. Bower etc........ The white box, private label, etc whatever you call them are actually intended for vehicles to be used as car bombs. Really! Little known fact. Youre welcome. Cheers!