My car really wants to be worked on...

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by Billy Mild

So I put the car on jackstands yesterday and there has not been any coolant leaked. I'm not sure if that was just some boilover or something. I can't find anywhere it would be leaking. Would it be a bad idea to pressurize the system for the whole weekend and see if it leaks?

Pressurizing the system for a period of time would work for leak detection especially for hard to find leaks. Some leaks may only show up when engine parts are hot however.

You do have to either run the engine to operating temperatures/coolant operating pressures or apply pressure to the coolant system for it to leak in most cases.

Just letting the car sit without running the engine usually will not show any coolant leaks at all.

[Billy Mild]

Originally Posted by Dynomite

Pressurizing the system for a period of time would work for leak detection especially for hard to find leaks. Some leaks may only show up when engine parts are hot however.

You do have to either run the engine to operating temperatures/coolant operating pressures or apply pressure to the coolant system for it to leak in most cases.

Just letting the car sit without running the engine usually will not show any coolant leaks at all.

I drove the car and put it up on Jackstands. It didn't look to leak anything.

[Billy Mild]

So I found the coolant leak. I haven't driven the car in a few weeks due to my brake issue. I finally got around to buying a new jack(since the other one was stolen). I noticed it has leaked a little bit on the floor. Soaked one piece of cardboard. Here is a picture of where its leaking from: It appears to be the hose at the bottom of the water pump. Is there anyway to tighten this clamp without take the entire front end apart?

[Paul Workman]

Originally Posted by Billy Mild

So I found the coolant leak. I haven't driven the car in a few weeks due to my brake issue. I finally got around to buying a new jack(since the other one was stolen). I noticed it has leaked a little bit on the floor. Soaked one piece of cardboard. Here is a picture of where its leaking from: It appears to be the hose at the bottom of the water pump. Is there anyway to tighten this clamp without take the entire front end apart?

Spring clamps... Without the proper tool - and even then - are not so easy to deal with, "fer sher". But! They are way better than the "worm" clamps in that they're self-adjusting; maintain constant pressure even as the rubber "cold flows" from under the clamp. So, my obligatory statement would be to replace it with the proper spring clam, if you can.


That said, because that (worm) clamp is situated to where you can't access it easily, I would (and have done) suggest cutting it or grinding it off (w/ a Dremel tool, perhaps) and reinstalling a new one where you can access the tightening screw easily. But, as with ANY such non-spring clamps, the (hose) material will migrate or collapse under pressure so that if not re-tightened from time to time, they WILL often leak eventually.

"Hint:" Anytime a new worm type clamp is installed, I find it should be revisited again in a few weeks and re-tightened. After about a week or two the rubber will have taken shape so that re-tightening the clamp will result in less/no reaction by the rubber to the force applied, if NOT over-tightened.

[Billy Mild]

Originally Posted by Paul Workman

Spring clamps... Without the proper tool - and even then - are not so easy to deal with, "fer sher". But! They are way better than the "worm" clamps in that they're self-adjusting; maintain constant pressure even as the rubber "cold flows" from under the clamp. So, my obligatory statement would be to replace it with the proper spring clam, if you can.


That said, because that (worm) clamp is situated to where you can't access it easily, I would (and have done) suggest cutting it or grinding it off (w/ a Dremel tool, perhaps) and reinstalling a new one where you can access the tightening screw easily. But, as with ANY such non-spring clamps, the (hose) material will migrate or collapse under pressure so that if not re-tightened from time to time, they WILL often leak eventually.

"Hint:" Anytime a new worm type clamp is installed, I find it should be revisited again in a few weeks and re-tightened. After about a week or two the rubber will have taken shape so that re-tightening the clamp will result in less/no reaction by the rubber to the force applied, if NOT over-tightened.

I don't think I can even get a Dremel in there. Its a tight fit. Does this mean the entire top end needs to come off again, along with removing the alternator and all that jazz?

[mike100]

You don't have to be able to get a screwdriver in there, but rather a 1/4 dr flex head swivel and some extensions. Maybe the nut size is 7 or 8mm for that type of hose clamp. Looks like you have to go down thru the top some way.

[We Gone]

Originally Posted by Paul Workman

"Hint:" Anytime a new worm type clamp is installed, I find it should be revisited again in a few weeks and re-tightened. After about a week or two the rubber will have taken shape so that re-tightening the clamp will result in less/no reaction by the rubber to the force applied, if NOT over-tightened.[/INDENT][/I]

Exactly, Also be aware that a spring clamp will crack a plastic fitting or radiator neck if over tightened as the part with the worm gear creates a pressure point under it as it is thicker under the clamp, were a spring clamp has even pressure (no high spot).

[Billy Mild]

Originally Posted by We Gone

Exactly, Also be aware that a spring clamp will crack a plastic fitting or radiator neck if over tightened as the part with the worm gear creates a pressure point under it as it is thicker under the clamp, were a spring clamp has even pressure (no high spot).

It sounds like this is not the correct type of clamp this came with from the factory. So what is the best way to change out this clamp? Do I need to tear everything apart, should I just focus on getting this one tightened?

[We Gone]

On aluminum or brass the screw clamp will work fine. Jerry's Gaskets sells the spring clamps but you would have to remove the hose end from the pump to replace it and that hose is a hard one.

[Paul Workman]

Long as we're on the subject of those &%$)#! spring clamps, does anyone have or know of a tool for removing/installing those things that will work from any angle? (I suspect the only reason worm clamps even exist is because those spring clamps are sucha bitch to install/remove w/o some kind of special tool.)

Suggestions??? WVZR-1? Anybody?? (Not meaning to steal the thread!)