My car really wants to be worked on... - Page 3 - ZR-1 Net Registry Forums

GOLDCYLON · 11-19-2014

I used to use the spring ring clamp removal tool that looks like this. I picked mine up at Oreillys. After buying the tool i went to samcos and stainess clamps and have not used the tool since lol

Billy Mild · 11-22-2014

I thought I found a good way to get to that clamp, wrong. I unbolted the swaybar, and it did give me a little more room, but that was a huge mistake. Still couldn't get a socket on it. I then looked from above thinking, will I really need to pull the plenum AGAIN.

I starred at the top of the engine. I then ventured to remove the belt tensioner. This does give me access to the clamp without issue. I will tighten this clamp down tight and hopefully the issue will go away. The car has been leaking coolant for a few weeks now. Just a drop or two. I need to clean all the coolant off the car. Whats the best way to do that?

11-19-2014	#21
GOLDCYLON Join Date: May 2007 Location: Peoria, AZ Posts: 9,153	Re: My car really wants to be worked on... I used to use the spring ring clamp removal tool that looks like this. I picked mine up at Oreillys. After buying the tool i went to samcos and stainess clamps and have not used the tool since lol __________________ GOLDCYLON - 91 ZR-1 #2014 GOLDCYLON - 90 ZR-1 #2794, 4L60e (Formerly Schrade's) GOLDCYLON - 11 CTS-V Arizona State Director 91 WHITE/BLACK #2014. 380 P&P&PCed,Ported Heads, Jeal Long tubes, Corsa Exhaust/FIKSE FM-5s /LED TLs, LED Headlights, Front Wilwood 6 piston narrowlite calipers and rear Wilwood caliper street shop mod,CNCed Coolant Pipes,TPI Cvr,Filter cover,Stainless Bolts, DRM/DOM PROM /ZFDOC mod build #102,DRLs,BMAD with stainless Debris Screen,Coplan Air Blaster, Pioneer APP Radio 4,Brey-Krause HB,Sub Bar,Fire extinguisher seat mount,DRM Coilovers,LEDs everywhere,Compass mirror (orange),V1 DIC hidden display, Homelink sun visor, Carbon Fiber top x3 and APSIS Carbon Fiber interior, APSIS CF Steering Wheel/NAPA Leather, Banski trailing arms, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension) ZFDoc drive shaft safety loop, raptor shift light (orange),AO engineering louver front plate, Console seat cushion, 96CE seats with black custom Sheepskins, ss billet catch can,Viper remote entry/alarm,Cragar Rear Louvers,LED side louver lights, Dewitts Radiator with SPAL fans and a Woods 160 T-Stat 90 RED/BLACK #2794. 4L60e Automatic Stage V by RPM Transmission, TCI Dedicated TCM, OBX Stainless Headers, Corsa Exhaust, SAN Secondaries and Haibeck PROM, Exotic Muscle Coil overs, LED Interior Lights, LED Tail Lights, LED Headlights, 94 Sport seats with black custom Sheepskins , Cragar rear louvers, GS Front calipers, Banski Trailing arms, APSIS Carbon Fiber steering wheel, Front and Rear Baer Eradispeeds, DRLs, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension), Dewitt's Raditor with Dual SPAL fans and a Haibeck 170 T-Stat 11 RED/GREY CTS-V

11-22-2014	#22
Billy Mild Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: Kansas City, MO Posts: 838	Re: My car really wants to be worked on... I thought I found a good way to get to that clamp, wrong. I unbolted the swaybar, and it did give me a little more room, but that was a huge mistake. Still couldn't get a socket on it. I then looked from above thinking, will I really need to pull the plenum AGAIN. I starred at the top of the engine. I then ventured to remove the belt tensioner. This does give me access to the clamp without issue. I will tighten this clamp down tight and hopefully the issue will go away. The car has been leaking coolant for a few weeks now. Just a drop or two. I need to clean all the coolant off the car. Whats the best way to do that? __________________ Looking for a ZR-1 1985 Yamaha RZ350-NOT STOCK 1971 Yamaha AT1-Middle of a restoration