C-beam Remove and Reinstall - ZR-1 Net Registry Forums

QB93Z · 08-10-2009

During my recent job to replace the crankshaft rear seal, I learned a quick and easy way to remove the C-beam. This procedure may be covered elsewhere on the NetRegistry site, but we took some pictures and a description may help others doing transmission removal.

Thank you to Phil (Jagdpanzer) for showing me this method.

In order to remove the transmission, you have to disconnect the C-beam from the transmission and from the differential. Then the C-beam is still in the way of pulling the transmission out of the bell housing.

Last time I did a transmission removal, (on Darrin's 1990), we pushed the C-beam as far aft (to the rear) as we could and were able to get the transmission out and in OK.

On my 1993, yesterday, we got the transmission out with the C-beam pushed aft, but could not get the clearance we needed to install the transmission into the new clutch and pilot bearing.

So Phil showed us how to get the C-beam completely out.

NOTE: This description does not include all the steps for transmission removal such as removing the exhaust system, the drive shaft and other interference items. NOTE

Step 1: Prior to the job, remove the MAP sensor from the back of the plenum to allow the motor to be tilted down at the back.

Step 2: Raise the car.

Step 3: Disconnect the emergency brake cable where is passes under the C-beam near the differential. This is easily accomplished by unbolting the e-brake cable guide from the passenger side frame rail. This gives enough slack to separate the e-brake cable in the center. This picture is after the C-beam was removed, but it shows the e-brake cable disconnect and the cable guide in Phil's right hand:

Step 4: Support the rear of the engine with a jack and remove the C-beam bolts.

Step 5: Push the C-beam forward by sliding it on the transmission until the aft end is clear of the differential housing. (Note this picture is really the reinstall picture showing the dust boot on the rear of the transmission. This is the replacement part I got in a hurry to replace the rear seal. the dust boot interfered with the forward drive shaft U-joint and had to be cut off.):

Step 6: Using the jack supporting the engine, lower the back of the engine so that it tilts down. This lowers the aft end of the C-beam below the differential.

Step 7: Remove the C-beam from the car by pulling it aft.

Step 8: Clean the contact areas of the C-beam, transmission and differential to ensure that the drive train rigidity will not be compromised on reinstallation:

Reinstall is the reverse. Tilt the engine down, slide the C-beam on the transmission and push it forward as far as it will go, tilt the engine up and slide the C-beam onto the differential.

After completing the work under the car, reinstall the MAP Sensor and check the intake air accordian. It may have slipped on the throttle body extension when the engine was tilted down.

Anyone paying attention may have noticed that the pictures I used are all reinstall pictures. Thank you to Darin for helping lift the transmission twice to stage these pictures.

Jim

ittlfly · 08-10-2009

Great stuff. Thanks, there is nothing like pictures.

Paul Workman · 08-10-2009

Yep! Zackly how we did it yesterday. Works like a charm!

P.

Kb7tif · 08-10-2009

Ah brings back memories. Nice work.

tccrab · 08-11-2009

Great posting, love the pics.
From my own experience I can tell you that getting that C-Beam off is the single most difficult part of a tranny pull.
What were the engineers thinking that designed that?

I propose this be made into a "Sticky" post and maybe we should start up a "How To" permanent post.

GoldieCyclops, what say you?

TomC
"Cras"

08-11-2009

Thanks for taking the time to share as this is my next step and I can really use this info.

flyin ryan · 08-11-2009

You are right about the Trans. rear seal with dust boot, is a no-go & must be cut off as you found out.

rkreigh · 08-11-2009

getting the upper bolts can be a pain. bill mentioned using a clamp or vice grips to hold the open end wrench

the beam plates capture the upper nuts and hold them and make removal and reinstall much easier, and stiffen up the mounting points to increase the distribution of the clamping to make the spine of the car stiffer and reduce flexing.

helps plant the power, got em if you need em!

pantera1683 · 09-06-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by rkreigh

getting the upper bolts can be a pain. bill mentioned using a clamp or vice grips to hold the open end wrench

the beam plates capture the upper nuts and hold them and make removal and reinstall much easier, and stiffen up the mounting points to increase the distribution of the clamping to make the spine of the car stiffer and reduce flexing.

helps plant the power, got em if you need em!

I used an open end wrench on the nuts and an impact wrench on the bolts, worked like a charm, all four bolts off in about 2 minutes.

08-10-2009	#1
QB93Z Join Date: May 2007 Location: Westminster, Maryland Posts: 3,689	C-beam Remove and Reinstall During my recent job to replace the crankshaft rear seal, I learned a quick and easy way to remove the C-beam. This procedure may be covered elsewhere on the NetRegistry site, but we took some pictures and a description may help others doing transmission removal. Thank you to Phil (Jagdpanzer) for showing me this method. In order to remove the transmission, you have to disconnect the C-beam from the transmission and from the differential. Then the C-beam is still in the way of pulling the transmission out of the bell housing. Last time I did a transmission removal, (on Darrin's 1990), we pushed the C-beam as far aft (to the rear) as we could and were able to get the transmission out and in OK. On my 1993, yesterday, we got the transmission out with the C-beam pushed aft, but could not get the clearance we needed to install the transmission into the new clutch and pilot bearing. So Phil showed us how to get the C-beam completely out. NOTE: This description does not include all the steps for transmission removal such as removing the exhaust system, the drive shaft and other interference items. NOTE Step 1: Prior to the job, remove the MAP sensor from the back of the plenum to allow the motor to be tilted down at the back. Step 2: Raise the car. Step 3: Disconnect the emergency brake cable where is passes under the C-beam near the differential. This is easily accomplished by unbolting the e-brake cable guide from the passenger side frame rail. This gives enough slack to separate the e-brake cable in the center. This picture is after the C-beam was removed, but it shows the e-brake cable disconnect and the cable guide in Phil's right hand: Step 4: Support the rear of the engine with a jack and remove the C-beam bolts. Step 5: Push the C-beam forward by sliding it on the transmission until the aft end is clear of the differential housing. (Note this picture is really the reinstall picture showing the dust boot on the rear of the transmission. This is the replacement part I got in a hurry to replace the rear seal. the dust boot interfered with the forward drive shaft U-joint and had to be cut off.): Step 6: Using the jack supporting the engine, lower the back of the engine so that it tilts down. This lowers the aft end of the C-beam below the differential. Step 7: Remove the C-beam from the car by pulling it aft. Step 8: Clean the contact areas of the C-beam, transmission and differential to ensure that the drive train rigidity will not be compromised on reinstallation: Reinstall is the reverse. Tilt the engine down, slide the C-beam on the transmission and push it forward as far as it will go, tilt the engine up and slide the C-beam onto the differential. After completing the work under the car, reinstall the MAP Sensor and check the intake air accordian. It may have slipped on the throttle body extension when the engine was tilted down. Anyone paying attention may have noticed that the pictures I used are all reinstall pictures. Thank you to Darin for helping lift the transmission twice to stage these pictures. Jim __________________ If it isn't fun, you aren't doing it right! 1990 Black ZR-1 - sold 1993 Quasar Blue ZR-1 1994 Competition Yellow ZR-1 1995 Dark Purple ZR-1 Maryland State Coordinator WAZOO Member Last edited by QB93Z; 08-10-2009 at 01:00 PM.

08-10-2009	#2
ittlfly Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Redding Calif Posts: 223	Re: C-beam Remove and Reinstall Great stuff. Thanks, there is nothing like pictures. __________________ 1994 ZR-1 # 0102...SOLD

08-10-2009	#3
Paul Workman Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Squires (near Ava MO in the Mark Twain N'tl Forest) - Missouri Posts: 6,493	Re: C-beam Remove and Reinstall Yep! Zackly how we did it yesterday. Works like a charm! P. __________________ Good carz, good food, good friendz = the best of timez! 90 #1202 "FBI" top end ported & relieved Cam timing by "Pete the Greek" Sans secondaries Chip & dyno tuning by Haibeck Automotive SW headers, X-pipe, MF muffs Former Secretary, ZR-1 Net Registry

08-10-2009	#4
Kb7tif Join Date: May 2009 Location: S Nevada Posts: 352	Re: C-beam Remove and Reinstall Ah brings back memories. Nice work. __________________ 1995 Convertible Supercharged Auto 1974 454 550hp (avatar car) On the blocks- -Scharger install ! 1992-Zr-1 Sold. Watson Headers Ported Plenum, Housings Random tech cats Fidanza Flywheel Chipped, Relocated Mat Woods 165 stat Borlas, Straights 1996 Lt4 Sold 1994 Lt1 Sold 2004 Z06 Sold AKA** Illenema

08-11-2009	#5
tccrab Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Folsom CA Posts: 1,656	Re: C-beam Remove and Reinstall Great posting, love the pics. From my own experience I can tell you that getting that C-Beam off is the single most difficult part of a tranny pull. What were the engineers thinking that designed that? I propose this be made into a "Sticky" post and maybe we should start up a "How To" permanent post. GoldieCyclops, what say you? TomC "Cras" __________________ TomC '90ZR1 #792 Honorary Pirate [B]If it ain't FUN, you're doing something terribly WRONG. [/B]

08-11-2009	#6
HAWAIIZR-1 Guest Posts: n/a	Re: C-beam Remove and Reinstall Thanks for taking the time to share as this is my next step and I can really use this info.

08-11-2009	#7
flyin ryan Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Edmonton, Alberta or Phoenix, Arizona Posts: 2,741	Re: C-beam Remove and Reinstall You are right about the Trans. rear seal with dust boot, is a no-go & must be cut off as you found out. __________________ There are no limit's mans ingenuity, just as mans ingenuity will never conquer the forces & behavior of this planet...Smokey Y.

08-11-2009	#8
rkreigh Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Alex VA Posts: 1,089	Re: C-beam Remove and Reinstall getting the upper bolts can be a pain. bill mentioned using a clamp or vice grips to hold the open end wrench the beam plates capture the upper nuts and hold them and make removal and reinstall much easier, and stiffen up the mounting points to increase the distribution of the clamping to make the spine of the car stiffer and reduce flexing. helps plant the power, got em if you need em! __________________ 95 390 LPE ZR1 (505 rwhp) LSV = Lingenfelter Super Vette Twin Turbo 2003 Z06 (800 RWHP)