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Old 01-11-2014   #27
Jagdpanzer
 
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 2,646
Default Re: Front shock change

I changed out my front shocks recently and all I had to do was carefully reinstalled the actuator by rotating it back and forth as it went down on shock the to make sure the actuator and valve gear teeth properly engaged. When fully inserted the splines on the outside of the actuator cap will lock into the metal cup on top of the shock and the retainer clip will insert easily then. As mentioned above when you turn the ignition key on the actuator cycles in both directions in order for the control system to since the location of the valve hard stops by the resulting increase in current draw when the stops are reached. Then you’re ready to go. If for some reason the control system cannot find either of the valve hard stops (in case of broken gear) or senses the calibration time is taking too long it will trip the “Check Ride Control light”. In my case the valve rotation force at first was a little excessive on the new shocks which prevented "Check Ride Control" light from clearing. I corrected this by removing the actuator and rotating the valve back and forth by my hand until it loosened up.
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Phil Wasinger
1994 Torch Red ZR-1
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