[scottfab]

Unfortunately it's not always the column wiring nor is it always the clutch switch, nor battery, nor dirty key contacts.

I wish I could find it but can't right now.
There is a well trod path for the most efficient way to find the cause.
It's four steps. I will try to regurgitate it now.
This could very well be off.

1. Check for security light flashing first. The key contacts on the resistive button can be come slightly contaminated. If it's flashing wipe the key off and wait 4min then try again.

2. Check battery voltage. Even a slightly low battery voltage can and does cause a "no start"

3. Temporarily bypass the clutch switch ( warning: safety issue to permanently bypass this switch. I don't recommend it)

4. This part is from email dating to 2001 but I have similar dating to 97.
It is very instructive for getting out of being stranded with a "no start".
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I've been fighting this problem for quite a while. I finally determined that the problem is the sum of a series of voltage drops in the entire starting circuit ( clutch switch, starter enable relay, solenoid connection etc.) The wire to the starter solenoid is a large purple # 12 wire that can be accessed in the computer harness in the engine compartment. This wire can be found by moving the black plastic coil sheath back away from the computer side of the harness. Locate the large purple wire in the harness, then take a voltmeter and pierce the purple wire and measure the voltage relative to the engine block ( or any good ground ) while attempting to start the engine. In my case I was only measuring 7.5 volts to the solenoid ( purple wire ). I don't know the precise voltage required to engage the solenoid, but it is certainly considerably more than 7.5 Volts. I decided that I could validate my findings by using a needle tipped probe that would pierce the purple wire insulation, and with the ignition on, car in neutral, and parking brake set, touch the other end of the probe to the positive battery terminal. Eureka!! I can now start the car anytime, anywhere if the normal starting circuits fail. I suspect that the major losses in the starting circuit are the clutch switch and the starter enable relay located under the dash. I'll be replacing each of these soon, but it is consoling to know that I can start the car now if needed without having to rely on help pushing the car. Hope this helps those of you who have been the victim of the PHANTOM no-start condition.
James Britt
1991 # 2014
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