Need some ideas.

[rhipsher]

I've got everything back together and ready to go. Plug the key in and all the bells and whistles come on as normal. Turn the key and no start. The lights go a little dim when I try to crank it over which is normal. Three things come to mind. Either a problem with the starter. The new battery I just bought is not fully charged. And 3rd I might have gotten the two plugs that are side by side that plug into that device that bolts onto the under side of the plenum swapped. I fully expected at least one thing to prevent start up. Any ideas?

[-=Jeff=-]

so to understand, it is cranking ( turning over) but not lighting off?

[rhipsher]

Jeff it's not cranking at all.

[SharkPilot]

I don't think swapping the plugs on the ignition module would keep it from cranking.
Have you checked the connections at the battery for cleanliness and tightness? It sounds like you had the plenum off. Did you disturb any of the connections at the starter while it was off? One final thought, how about the clutch switch? I've never had one go bad so I'm not sure, other than not cranking, how it would act.

Hope these ideas help,
SharkPilot

[Jeffvette]

I don't think swapping the plugs on the ignition module would keep it from cranking.



It is impossible to make a mistake hooking the DIS module back up. None of the connectors are the same.

There are two connectors on the starter. Make sure you got both of them.


And are you pushing in the clutch pedal?

[tf95ZR1]

And are you pushing in the clutch pedal?

Now what would make you think of that?=D>

[rhipsher]

I've tried a few common sense things. I tapped into the purple wire to see if there is juice going to the starter relay when I turn the ignition key all the way. And it lights up just fine when its turned all the way. I also noticed a red wire coming from another wire harness down behind the plenum and traced it back behind the battery and its been clipped off and just electrical tapped and stuffed behind the battery which I suspect goes to the clutch safety switch. My car starts without having to push the clutch peddle down. I'm going to take the plenum off tomorrow and tap the starter a few times and see if its stuck. Then test it to see if it no good. If that doesn't pan out then I'm really not sure what else to do. It's so close to starting I can taste it but it won't.

[Jeffvette]

Pictures of said wire?

[Jeffvette]

Now what would make you think of that?=D>


You just never know :mrgreen:

[rhipsher]

Pictures of said wire?I'll take a pic of the wire tomorrow. I'll just pm you the pic. I'm gonna hit the hay right now.:sleepy1:

[Dynomite]

I've got everything back together and ready to go. Plug the key in and all the bells and whistles come on as normal. Turn the key and no start. The lights go a little dim when I try to crank it over which is normal. Three things come to mind. Either a problem with the starter. The new battery I just bought is not fully charged. And 3rd I might have gotten the two plugs that are side by side that plug into that device that bolts onto the under side of the plenum swapped. I fully expected at least one thing to prevent start up. Any ideas?

If the lights go dim when engaging the starter, that would indicate the starter selenoid has engaged and the starter is taking current with (poor battery connection, weak selenoid, poor primary connections on starter, or starter problem). The starter could be jammed somehow taking full current but not rotating. It appears that the starter is taking ALMOST full current if the lights go dim. Or the battery is undercharged with not enough voltage to rotate the starter. I would start with the battery and battery connections.

[tomtom72]

Didn't Marc have a comment about if the starter was stuck that you could use a 3/8" metal rod & get it down thru the plenum and past the coil tray so it was up against the starter? Then you hit it with a hammer to jog the starter/ or the solenoid loose if it was hanging up?

Just a thought, as it sure sounds like something is eating up a lot of current. JMHO:o

[rhipsher]

The reason I suspect the starter is fried is before I removed the IH housings and coil pack I was spaying allot of break clean in that area and of course it all ends up pooling up in the valley. It was probably a good 3/8 to 1/2 deep before I removed the starter and when I saw it I thought Ooooh! I hope that didn't get into the starter. It was a mix of engine oil brake clean and dead bugs. I was going to test the starter before I put the plenum on because I feard that it might have got screwed up with the fluid that was in the valley. I know for a fact that I connected everything. There's only two wires that go to the starter. The big red wire and a small one that connects right in front of the coil pack. How do I test the starter to see if it's bye bye.

[carter200]

Take the starter to Autozone and they'll test for free.......:thumbsup:

[rhipsher]

Now if the starter is dead is it something that I can pick up locally or is it another specialty item I have to order?

[dbriana]

Now if the starter is dead is it something that I can pick up locally or is it another specialty item I have to order?

Autozone shows one for $190 including a $70 core charge but may have to order depending on location.

[rhipsher]

I just talked to Corey and he said its a very good possibility that fluid made it into the starter. He said it could be stuck and if you've checked the purple wire going to it and its got power every time you turn the key fully then the starter is just not turning. He said parts lady is going to have the best price on them.

[rhipsher]

WooHoo! I was right. It was the starter. I took the plenum off and unbolted the coil pack and took a 1/2 drive extension and a 3lbs sledge hammer and gave it 3 good whacks in about three different spots. Hopped in and it turned right over.:dancing I guess the combination of it sitting for 6 months and possibly getting some fluid in it caused it to stick. But auto zone has a starter for $120+$70 core charge just like you said. If I order it before 2:00pm it will be here tomorrow.I don't think I'll need it unless this starter gets stuck again and leaves me stranded:thumbsup:

[rhipsher]

WooHoo! I was right. It was the starter. I took the plenum off and unbolted the coil pack and took a 1/2 drive extension and a 3lbs sledge hammer and gave it 3 good whacks in about three different spots. Hopped in and it turned right over.:dancing I guess the combination of it sitting for 6 months and possibly getting some fluid in it caused it to stick. But auto zone has a starter for $120+$70 core charge just like you said. If I order it before 2:00pm it will be here tomorrow.I don't think I'll need it unless this starter gets stuck again and leaves me stranded:thumbsup: Hell! It's only $120 for a tow right.:mrgreen:

[-=Jeff=-]

you must have been so happy you posted it twice

:sign10:

Glad you fixed it

[Kb7tif]

WooHoo! I was right. It was the starter. I took the plenum off and unbolted the coil pack and took a 1/2 drive extension and a 3lbs sledge hammer and gave it 3 good whacks in about three different spots. Hopped in and it turned right over.:dancing I guess the combination of it sitting for 6 months and possibly getting some fluid in it caused it to stick. But auto zone has a starter for $120+$70 core charge just like you said. If I order it before 2:00pm it will be here tomorrow.I don't think I'll need it unless this starter gets stuck again and leaves me stranded:thumbsup: Hell! It's only $120 for a tow right.:mrgreen:

How is the power difference??

[Paul Workman]

Much below 10VDC and these starters get grumpy about working. But, if you have about 11 or more on the purple wire, and the starter is not rolling over, then the starter would ordinarily be the next choice.

Having said that, I find it juuuuust a leeetle too coincidental that the starter won't turn. Always possible a connection is...well...NOT connecting. In any case, 11 ish VDC to the starter and no rolling over, the starter is where to begin looking: the starter itself, or a connection thereon.

Good luck.

P.

[rhipsher]

How is the power difference?? It moves with authority. But it wasn't immediate at first. At first it was idling all over the place. 3K then 2k and the car just felt like it did before. Really no difference. I could tell the ECM was making corrections. But the more I drive it the faster it seems to get especially in the top end. But the same thing happened when I switched from the stock exhaust to the Borla. I didn't notice an immediate difference there either. In fact it felt slower. But after about 26 miles or so the car just came alive and felt faster. The only upgrade that I've done to the car and felt an instant difference was the Fidanza flywheel. You will notice that instantly no matter what. But everything else seems to get better gradually at about the 26 mile mark for my car. And I always end up be very happy with the results. The acceleration is definitely more intense than it was before.

[rhipsher]

How is the power difference?? It moves with authority. But it wasn't immediate at first. At first it was idling all over the place. 3K then 2k and the car just felt like it did before. Really no difference. I could tell the ECM was making corrections. But the more I drive it the faster it seems to get especially in the top end. But the same thing happened when I switched from the stock exhaust to the Borla. I didn't notice an immediate difference there either. In fact it felt slower. But after about 26 miles or so the car just came alive and felt faster. The only upgrade that I've done to the car and felt an instant difference was the Fidanza flywheel. You will notice that instantly no matter what. At the 26 mile mark the car just jumps to life. And thats the same thing that happened here. And I always end up be very happy with the results. The acceleration is definitely more intense than it was before.

[rhipsher]

I don't know why my threads keep posting twice. Oh well.