Does anyone have first hand knowledge about Eagle connecting rods?

[HAWAIIZR-1]

I can't really find much negative about these other than made in China and machined in US. Are these something to stay away from? I see some of the builders use only Oliver that I guess are one of the best costing about $1200 or so. Manley is used by Lingenfelter, but one of the other builders offered me a 368 package at one time with Eagle "H" beam rods.

Are these you get what you pay for? I would definitely not consider the SCATs as these sound too cheap and I have seen some negative comments on these.

Thanks!

[VetteMed]

I can't really find much negative about these other than made in China......

Does more really need to be said? I'm no engine builder, but I wouldn't trust chinese parts any further than I could throw 'em.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Does more really need to be said? I'm no engine builder, but I wouldn't trust chinese parts any further than I could throw 'em.

Thanks, but as I stated not looking for opinions about chinese parts but first hand knowledge of someone that has used or has experience with Eagle Speciality Products, Inc. I realize that many companies go overseas to save costs, but some really do hold standards to manufacturing and I'm not sure if it applies here.

[Polo-1]

Mostly it's the size from one rod to the other. 1 could be 5.85 the next 5.84 and the next 5.86. The other is a hp limit or rpm limit.

With the Crower, Oliver, Top name brands they have a "good luck trying to break" it class of rod.

I went with the Crower over the Oliver, mostly for weight.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Mostly it's the size from one rod to the other. 1 could be 5.85 the next 5.84 and the next 5.86. The other is a hp limit or rpm limit.

With the Crower, Oliver, Top name brands they have a "good luck trying to break" it class of rod.

I went with the Crower over the Oliver, mostly for weight.

Kevin,

Thanks for sharing. Yes, I guess why guess or take chances when there is the reputation of the top brands. I was just trying to find out about the rods that range from $500-$600 versus the $1,000 to $1200 ones. I'll see what anyone else has to share, bu maybe you get what you pay for on these?

Aloha,

[RICHARD TILL]

i have two dragboats that i run in the 10 second bracket. both are big block chevys. 6.385 length. one engine has nearly 100 passes with scat rods and the other has eagle with only 30 passes. no problems yet at 6500 wot.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

i have two dragboats that i run in the 10 second bracket. both are big block chevys. 6.385 length. one engine has nearly 100 passes with scat rods and the other has eagle with only 30 passes. no problems yet at 6500 wot.

Thanks for sharing your first hand experience; I really appreciate it and I see there are many folks racing with the types of rods. That is way more abuse than I would ever put on the street. :cheers:

[flyin ryan]

Eagle are very average...Hard to beat the price, but very average. I try not to use at all, only if the customer insists & I tell them up front if anything happens, I wash my hands to them, fair warning.

[Polo-1]

If you are on a budget, buy used set of Carrillo, Crower, ........
ebay a set cheap. buy to sets to make one if needed, still would be under $ eagles.

Have them X-rayed and checked. Buy the 2.0 small bearing and stroke the stock crank when turned down in size. Come out with a 372-378 ci.

:thumbsup:

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Eagle are very average...Hard to beat the price, but very average. I try not to use at all, only if the customer insists & I tell them up front if anything happens, I wash my hands to them, fair warning.

Ryan,

Thanks for the info. I guess if someone were building a low budget SBC these sound okay and risk is acceptable; I remember many years ago (high school days) when I used to build SBCs and just throw together all kinds of combinations and used stuff but never blew up a motor at the tracks beating the snot out of them. For something like our LT5, it makes sense to only go with the high end rods and not worth the risk to save a few hundred $. I emailed several of the manufacturers that don't state where their rods come from; I am willing to bet a few of the ones we think are USA made are not. If they are, to me it would be posted on their site and proud to state so.

Mahalo and Aloha,

[HAWAIIZR-1]

If you are on a budget, buy used set of Carrillo, Crower, ........
ebay a set cheap. buy to sets to make one if needed, still would be under $ eagles.

Have them X-rayed and checked. Buy the 2.0 small bearing and stroke the stock crank when turned down in size. Come out with a 372-378 ci.

:thumbsup:

Thanks for the tips. I don't know I want to buy anything used, but definitely having the local shop check everything out and balance, etc. I remember you mention about this stroking and very interesting to consider. :cheers:

[flyin ryan]

Buy the 2.0 small bearing and stroke the stock crank when turned down in size. Come out with a 372-378 ci.

:thumbsup:2.0" small? I'm doing Mitsubishi sized stuff now, 1.779" dia. lives at 960+ HP. Actually A LOT of Nascar teams use this size now. Just picken' on the new Daddy ;).

[flyin ryan]

One of the reason's Eagle's are so popular is that if you were to do a set of stock rods, by the time you check out the Small end, De-Beam, X-ray &/or mag., resize with ARP bolts etc., well people think 'I can have a brand new set of Eagle's'! Doesn't make sense to most people, unless you are in the know.

[Polo-1]

2.0" small? I'm doing Mitsubishi sized stuff now, 1.779" dia. lives at 960+ HP. Actually A LOT of Nascar teams use this size now. Just picken' on the new Daddy ;).

That's BIG Daddy to you:wink:
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y292/kpie/ATT00013.jpg

I would love to cut it down smaller, but how much is too much on the stock crank??

[Pete]

Congrats Kevin aka "Big Daddy":)

Your first?

Pete

[Polo-1]

Thanks Pete :hello:

Yes are first and only.
Nicolas Anthony
10-2-09 @ 9:21am
It's been a long road to get him (IVF baby).

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Thanks Pete :hello:

Yes are first and only.
Nicolas Anthony
10-2-09 @ 9:21am
It's been a long road to get him (IVF baby).

Big Congrats, Big Daddy! You have to be the world's happiest man now.

[HIZNHRZ]

Yes are first and only.
Nicolas Anthony
10-2-09 @ 9:21am
It's been a long road to get him (IVF baby).


“To witness the birth of a child is our best opportunity to experience the meaning of the word miracle.” Don't remember who said it but it sure is true.

Polo-1, a hearty congradulations to you and the Misses.

HAWAIIZR-1, sorry for temporarily borrowing your thread.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

“To witness the birth of a child is our best opportunity to experience the meaning of the word miracle.” Don't remember who said it but it sure is true.

Polo-1, a hearty congradulations to you and the Misses.

HAWAIIZR-1, sorry for temporarily borrowing your thread.

No problem, it is for a great occassion and needs to be recognized as another member is added to the family. :handshak:

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Here is some information from Manley. Waiting of a few of the others that are name brand, but might have forging done overseas.

----- Forwarded Message ----
From: sales <sales@manleyperformance.com>
To: hawaiizr1@yahoo.com
Sent: Monday, October 5, 2009 9:29:10 AM
Subject: RE: Origin of parts

Yes....ALL Manley Sportsmaster and Pro Series I-Beam rods; including our Turbo Tuff design....are forged in the USA and machined here at our Lakewood, NJ facility.

Our H-Beam rods do come from an overseas forging house...but they are made to our strict specifications.....plus we FINISH them here at our Lakewood, NJ facility on the same line that we do our Sportsmaster and Pro Series....which is why the Manley H-Beams are the best quality on the market.....if you want an economical alternative to our Pro Series.

Hope this info helps in your decision-making process.

Thanks for contacting Manley Performance.


-----Original Message-----
From: HawaiiZR1 [mailto:hawaiizr1@yahoo.com (hawaiizr1@yahoo.com)]
Sent: Saturday, October 03, 2009 1:34 PM
To: sales
Subject: Origin of parts


Are all Manley connecting rods 100% manufactured and machined in the US? I am trying to stay away from the items made in China or overseas.

Thank you,

Craig

[tf95ZR1]

Boy do you look happy (and tired!) Kevin!
Hearty congrats to you and the Mrs.
Nothing like a new, healthy baby.
If you don't know already- has your life changed!
:occasion1 :occasion1

[tomtom72]

:thumbsup: Kevin! God bless you and your family! :occasion1


Craig, I don't know enough about rods to be of any real value, but this is my take on the response from Manley. It would appear to say that the foreign made "raw" forgings are subjected to inspection, and any not up to Manley's standards for a "blank" are rejected. Is that what you read into their response?

:o of course I'm making the guess that when they say that they "finish" the product they mean that they size both ends and machine the beam to it's final configuration and then make the target weight. I would figure if they are going to do all that work on the "raw" forging it has to pass their scrutiny before they spend all that time? Is this what you are thinking?

:cheers:
Tom

[HAWAIIZR-1]

:thumbsup: Kevin! God bless you and your family! :occasion1


Craig, I don't know enough about rods to be of any real value, but this is my take on the response from Manley. It would appear to say that the foreign made "raw" forgings are subjected to inspection, and any not up to Manley's standards for a "blank" are rejected. Is that what you read into their response?

:o of course I'm making the guess that when they say that they "finish" the product they mean that they size both ends and machine the beam to it's final configuration and then make the target weight. I would figure if they are going to do all that work on the "raw" forging it has to pass their scrutiny before they spend all that time? Is this what you are thinking?

:cheers:
Tom

Hi there Tom,

I think that Manley has a reputation to uphold. Folks like you and me that have been around for awhile will remember them from the childhood days and I have to agree with you about standards. I saw a comparison on several import sites of Manley and Eagle H-Beams and it was quite clear that the quality and standard on the Manley's were better; as least from the cosmetic aspects and the thickness, finish....even the logo on the rod is shoddy on the Eagles.

What I am finding in this research so far is only Oliver is 100% made in the USA from start to finish. I am still waiting for a response from Carrillo but based on their website I'm thinking some overseas too. Callies Compstar is honest on their site stating China, Europe and India with statement of the quality control, etc.

I still have time so trying to find a balance between reality, quality, costs, etc. I see Marc H only uses Oliver in his builds so that says something too.

Take care and thanks for your thoughts. So when are you coming to Hawaii for vacation?

Aloha!

[Polo-1]

Boy do you look happy (and tired!) Kevin!
Hearty congrats to you and the Mrs.
Nothing like a new, healthy baby.
If you don't know already- has your life changed!
:occasion1 :occasion1

:thumbsup: Kevin! God bless you and your family! :occasion1


:cheers:
Tom

Thanks Guys:thumbsup:


Craig
The Manley Rods are good stuff. Ford uses them in the 4.6 puffed cammer motors, we have seen the dyno #'s on those motors.
I think when I was looking they were heavy like the Olivers.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Thanks Guys:thumbsup:


Craig
The Manley Rods are good stuff. Ford uses them in the 4.6 puffed cammer motors, we have seen the dyno #'s on those motors.
I think when I was looking they were heavy like the Olivers.

Kevin,

Thanks for your input. With money no object I would definitely go with the Olivers. I hear other top end brands are Dyers and Carrillo. One of the racer/builders/dealers that sells most brands I was speaking to told me the Manley's aren't bad for the price and definitely a notch above Eagles from their experience out of the box and what has to be done to them before install. He also stated that the Callies Compstars H-beam is a little better than the Manley H-beam and cost a little more so it seems everything is relative to price and you get what you pay for. Tough choices. The nice thing is Manley does have the high end US only stuff too.

[tpepmeie]

I am still waiting for a response from Carrillo but based on their website I'm thinking some overseas too.

Craig, I believe Carrillo is 100% US content. High quality and light too. I agonized over the rods for my 427, but eventually went with the small-journal tapered beam Carrillos.

http://www.photohost.org/gallery/data/500/2374IMG_1197-med.JPG
http://www.photohost.org/gallery/data/500/2374IMG_1199-med.JPG

If I could not have gotten these, my next choice was the Dyers rods. Same design, 300M steel, made in America too.

Todd

[Pete]

WOW.Todd those are pretty light.

The Ti rods wiegh 498 with the ARP's on.

Pete

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Craig, I believe Carrillo is 100% US content. High quality and light too. I agonized over the rods for my 427, but eventually went with the small-journal tapered beam Carrillos.

http://www.photohost.org/gallery/data/500/2374IMG_1197-med.JPG
http://www.photohost.org/gallery/data/500/2374IMG_1199-med.JPG

If I could not have gotten these, my next choice was the Dyers rods. Same design, 300M steel, made in America too.

Todd

Todd,

You are correct, I received email today from them and genuinely 100%. Should have known as these are in the top 3 or so I would imagine. I heard they are very expensive and you do get what you pay for. These are very nice and light too. That is going to be an awesome motor. :cheers:

[HAWAIIZR-1]

WOW.Todd those are pretty light.

The Ti rods wiegh 498 with the ARP's on.

Pete

Wow, Ti $$$$$$$. I can't afford either of these.

[Polo-1]

New Carrillo's are pricey, but used sets are always going through ebay cheap. Buy 2 sets if needed, x-rayed and good to go. You should be able to do it all for under $700. for a set $2500 rods.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

New Carrillo's are pricey, but used sets are always going through ebay cheap. Buy 2 sets if needed, x-rayed and good to go. You should be able to do it all for under $700. for a set $2500 rods.

Sounds great, but I don't know about used. Like you said if checked out by a good shop, not a bad idea and option to consider. Thanks!

[tpepmeie]

New Carrillo's are pricey, but used sets are always going through ebay cheap. Buy 2 sets if needed, x-rayed and good to go. You should be able to do it all for under $700. for a set $2500 rods.

Be real careful with the used cup stuff on ebay. Most all of those are a) piston guided...too narrow, and b) small diameter pins w/ no bushing. I wouldn't know how to make the narrow rods work on an LT5, maybe Flyin Ryan would know.

Todd

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Be real careful with the used cup stuff on ebay. Most all of those are a) piston guided...too narrow, and b) small diameter pins w/ no bushing. I wouldn't know how to make the narrow rods work on an LT5, maybe Flyin Ryan would know.

Todd

I hear you and that would be my worry unless coming from some reputable machine shop/builder with some type of guarantee.

[flyin ryan]

Be real careful with the used cup stuff on ebay. Most all of those are a) piston guided...too narrow, and b) small diameter pins w/ no bushing. I wouldn't know how to make the narrow rods work on an LT5, maybe Flyin Ryan would know.

ToddGet a crank made for them, unfortunatly :cool:. Only way I know of to solve the Big End to 'narrow' scenario :dontknow:. Small end with no bushing is edgy for a street deal, Casidium coated wristpins would be mandatory...pretty sure those small ends would/should have pressure feeds up through the beam, I know that's how I order my Alum. rods these days, more so for the high vacuum enviroment mind you, but steel pins with no bronze bushing on the street...that's where the dice rolling starts.

BTW...I agree, Todd's got some very nice part's to work with :thumbsup:.