Paint work

[Jeffvette]

So who all is really good with paint?

Here is what I am working with. Clearcoat is degraded on the hood only. The bumper has a couple of cones impacts.

http://www.pnwzr1.com/images/Paint/IMG_5855.JPG

http://www.pnwzr1.com/images/Paint/IMG_5856.JPG

http://www.pnwzr1.com/images/Paint/IMG_5857.JPG

http://www.pnwzr1.com/images/Paint/IMG_5858.JPG

http://www.pnwzr1.com/images/Paint/IMG_5859.JPG

http://www.pnwzr1.com/images/Paint/IMG_5860.JPG

[flyin ryan]

Elaborate...Engine paint, Vehicle paint, Halloween party 'Body' paint...:dontknow:

[Locobob]

How bout this guy Jeff?? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nIO2xK6Sga4

[Jeffvette]

Elaborate...Engine paint, Vehicle paint, Halloween party 'Body' paint...:dontknow:


Talking about the hood and the front bumper.

[Jeffvette]

How bout this guy Jeff?? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nIO2xK6Sga4


He's hired!

[Jeffvette]

Couple of more pics since we are limited :(

http://www.pnwzr1.com/images/Paint/IMG_5861.JPG

http://www.pnwzr1.com/images/Paint/IMG_5865.JPG

http://www.pnwzr1.com/images/Paint/IMG_5866.JPG

[z proud]

Jeff,

I would respray (color and clear) the hood and replace the front bumper cover with new or an udamaged used, if that is what your asking.

Talking about the hood and the front bumper.

[1990 415]

He's hired!

Would you consider letting Emerson explore his creative painting skills on the hood only. He will work for cookies.:)

[Z51JEFF]

Your looking at repainting the hood and front bumper.While these urethane bumpers can be damaged in an impact from what Ive seen there is nothing wrong with the bumper other than fractured paint.

[Jeffvette]

Would you consider letting Emerson explore his creative painting skills on the hood only. He will work for cookies.:)

I have seen his creativity of slamming the pencil lead through the paper. Not sure I want him near the hood, or well near anything I hold dear with a object he can stab with.

[Jeffvette]

I think what I am looking for is tips in striping the paint down. I will not shoot the car myself, but wouldn't mine doing the other work.

[rhipsher]

Jeff I'd just take it to a good body and paint shop. I'd let the pro's prep and paint it. Unless you you've got moths in your wallet

[z proud]

Find a painter or shop and let them tell you how they want it prepped.

Front cover I would replace, as the rubber will be cracked under the paint and it will take sometime to remove the paint, If you want to try to repair and strip the paint off, use 80 on a da till you get to the black primer then finish up with 180. Don’t dig into the rubber, or you could have it media blasted, if the person has done bumpers before.

Hood, I would use 180 on a da, to remove the clear and paint, then block sand the primmer with 400 wet.



As everyone has a different approach, I don’t like to use stripper on VETTES as it could get into the fibbers and come back to cause problems after it’s painted.

Let me know if you have any questions, I have painted and been around the collision repair for 25 +years

[RICKYRJ1]

The time is in the prep work = money. Have the shop do the final prep and paint. That way they can't blame you if something doesn't come out right. I agree w/Zproud on the prep

[Jeffvette]

Jeff I'd just take it to a good body and paint shop. I'd let the pro's prep and paint it. Unless you you've got moths in your wallet

It's not a matter of being cheap, I want to learn something new. And also have some fun at the same time.

[Jeffvette]

The time is in the prep work = money. Have the shop do the final prep and paint. That way they can't blame you if something doesn't come out right. I agree w/Zproud on the prep

I think I got an estimate of all the work being done for 1,400 from a guy I trust and have seen his work at several shows.

[Jeffvette]

Find a painter or shop and let them tell you how they want it prepped.

Front cover I would replace, as the rubber will be cracked under the paint and it will take sometime to remove the paint, If you want to try to repair and strip the paint off, use 80 on a da till you get to the black primer then finish up with 180. Don’t dig into the rubber, or you could have it media blasted, if the person has done bumpers before.

Hood, I would use 180 on a da, to remove the clear and paint, then block sand the primmer with 400 wet.

As everyone has a different approach, I don’t like to use stripper on VETTES as it could get into the fibbers and come back to cause problems after it’s painted.

Let me know if you have any questions, I have painted and been around the collision repair for 25 +years


Thanks for the tips. I've checked on front bumpers from GM, and they have been discontinued..... Finding a decent used one will be a problem as well, and I've seen the repops. They all require work :mad:

From what I've seen/heard in the past is nothing below 320 for sanding. Use the 320 on a DA until you hit the black primer, then start getting finer from there.

[GOLDCYLON]

I think I got an estimate of all the work being done for 1,400 from a guy I trust and have seen his work at several shows.

You R&R the parts? Or remain on the car? Make sure you get a chance to clean and seal real good the light housings, Fog, turn signal lens.

[1990 415]

I have seen his creativity of slamming the pencil lead through the paper. Not sure I want him near the hood, or well near anything I hold dear with a object he can stab with.
"No, no, no,no!"

[xlr8nflorida]

"No, no, no,no!"

You can learn something new on the prep but I would leave it to the pros to do the painting, especially since they have a paint booth.

I would not bead blast it because unless you have experience bead blasting fiberglass, things can go south in a hurry.

The paint shop will shoot it with a coat or two of primer, sand and fix anything you might have missed and then prime again, basecoat and clearcoat.

Z Proud gave you good advice on the sanding etc. I'm not a big fan of the paint stripper either although I think that was more a factor in the old days with real Fiberglass and Laquer Paints, now with SMC its not a really a factor. People say that, because fiberglass is a porous material, the fiberglass sometimes absorbs the stripper which makes it difficult to properly neutralize the stripper once you've got the paint removed. Then, when the car is parked in the sun or exposed to heat, the paint stripper can 'sweat' out of the fiberglass and eat the finished paint from the inside out. Regardless, you can do damage or burn your skin so even though Corvettes are now SMC- sand paper is the toughest work but its the way to go and its the safest way.

Honestly, if they are pulling the bumper off and doing all the prep and painting, that is a very reasonable price. I'd ask if the price is diferent if you pay cash.

If you want to do the prep, learn something new and save some $ then I'd go to your painter and ask him how he wants you to do the prep. Heck, he might even let you setup in his shop and he can guide you. The other way, he might blame you and say you caused him more work. (even if its BS)

It would be like you telling me, you will change my 4 coils for $150 labor and I will pull off the plenum to save $. You say ok then I'll only charge you $120. I screw it up and snap all the bolts off making your job even tougher etc.

Good Luck!

[Z51JEFF]

Thanks for the tips. I've checked on front bumpers from GM, and they have been discontinued..... Finding a decent used one will be a problem as well, and I've seen the repops. They all require work :mad:

From what I've seen/heard in the past is nothing below 320 for sanding. Use the 320 on a DA until you hit the black primer, then start getting finer from there.

Ive seen OEM front bumpers on Fleabay,new.But I cant understand why the bumper is cracked,you didnt run into anything but a rubber cone.I think Jim Butler Chevrolet might have a front bumper.Personally,if it were me Id look for a new OEM bumper and start fresh.

[xlr8nflorida]

[quote=Jeffvette;70479]Thanks for the tips. I've checked on front bumpers from GM, and they have been discontinued..... Finding a decent used one will be a problem as well, and I've seen the repops. They all require work :mad:


You can find one, I got a new one years ago for another Corvette for $250. Normal price is about $400. Scour Ebay and ask your insurance agent for an adjusters number, they know where to get the good used ones.

I would call Art's Corvettes in Florida. (954) 763-1123 or (954) 763-9911.
If he doesn't have one, he can direct you.

It might take a dozen or so phone calls but they are out there.

[xlr8nflorida]

Ive seen OEM front bumpers on Fleabay,new.But I cant understand why the bumper is cracked,you didnt run into anything but a rubber cone.I think Jim Butler Chevrolet might have a front bumper.Personally,if it were me Id look for a new OEM bumper and start fresh.

Honestly, having gone down that round, its sometimes worse to get new.
Sometimes the devil you know is better then the devil you don't know. This is at least true on the rear bumpers anyway. I think its true on the front bumpers too which is why you can almost always tell when a C4 has has had its bumper replaced. Granted though, alot of the cases are when the body shop misaligned the bumper. It's not that easy though to align and you often have to shim it to get it perfect. Even factory corvettes sometimes have various gaps and variations on the parts.

I didn't analysis the photo for 5 minutes but to me, the damage is extremely minimal. In my opinion, less body work done on a car and swapping of parts, is better.

[Z51JEFF]

Honestly, having gone down that round, its sometimes worse to get new.
Sometimes the devil you know is better then the devil you don't know. This is at least true on the rear bumpers anyway. I think its true on the front bumpers too which is why you can almost always tell when a C4 has has had its bumper replaced. Granted though, alot of the cases are when the body shop misaligned the bumper. It's not that easy though to align and you often have to shim it to get it perfect. Even factory corvettes sometimes have various gaps and variations on the parts.

I didn't analyis the photo for 5 minutes but to me, the damage is extremely minimal. In my opinion, less body work done on a car and swapping of parts, is better.

This makes sense,you know the bumper on the car will come off and go back on and fit nice opposed to something thats never been on the car.My opposition here is the stripping process.Chemical strippers is out,manual stripping out,too much work.I would rather spend money than work up a sweat when it comes to some jobs.Media blasting,some hack will make a mess if he doesnt know what hes doing.Soda blasting is the best option here.

[billybaloneey]

Honestly, having gone down that round, its sometimes worse to get new.
Sometimes the devil you know is better then the devil you don't know. This is at least true on the rear bumpers anyway. I think its true on the front bumpers too which is why you can almost always tell when a C4 has has had its bumper replaced. Granted though, alot of the cases are when the body shop misaligned the bumper. It's not that easy though to align and you often have to shim it to get it perfect. Even factory corvettes sometimes have various gaps and variations on the parts.

I didn't analysis the photo for 5 minutes but to me, the damage is extremely minimal. In my opinion, less body work done on a car and swapping of parts, is better.

I can't speak to C4 bumper replacement, but I can with regards to C3 front and rear bumper replacement. If you can avoid buying new, and trying to repairing what you have, you'll save yourself alot of grief. The replacements just never fit right. You'll find yourself working forever and a day trying to get the right fit...and if you prep and paint the replacement before mounting it, you'll run the risk of scratching the new paint on the replacement and possibly other areas of your front end...the hood and fenders. As careful as you try to be...it will happen. C4 bumpers are big and bulky. At a minimum have two extra pair of hands to assist when trying to put things back together.

All of the above does not apply if you pay someone else to do it.

[Hammer]

Jeff,

You know the people at Rose City Corvette Club, right? Somebody there has had paintwork done and are happy with it. If you start asking, you will probably find most of them might be using the same paint shop because they don't **** up their Vettes. If you've already done this, then forget about it.

John

[phrogs]

Just take 180 and use a block at firts until you get the hang of it the da is agressive and can burn right through, Go to your local auto body paint store get the soft pads that you wrap paper around and get some hard ones for the flat areas.

I also used old pieces of radiator hoses to get round countours like the hood areas that are curved.

There were areas I sanded mine down to the yellow in places because it was that bad with rock chips

Now you can take the da with the 180 to get the top layers off go down to the primer thats fine, but then you come back with the 400 grit and sand it all smooth, areas like the cracked paint will need a good 2 pak primer to build that area up then it would need to be sanded back down level this is all stuff you can do if you have the gun and a good water oil proof air system the filters for the air are the expensive part haha


once you get the basic areas primed and blocked flat then I would prime the entire part let it dry then go over it with a mist coat of black spray paint or you can buy no kidding guide coat and then you sand it once more to make sure its perfect.


almost all of your primer you shoot will end up back on the ground.

The body shop will shoot the parts with a sealer and then base coat clear coat them.

I highly recomend doing this work with the parts off of the car after the end red it shot you can mask off the hood and have them repaint the undside of it needs it.


oh and I used sherwin williams automotive paints when I did mine

and 3m sand paper

[richard sanderson]

my 90 red ZR-1 is pretty sharp, but the upper rear body panel (the one which houses the rear lights) just looks so dull and plasticy. In fact when you feel it and press it, it seems as if it is just a thin piece of plastic! Has anyone any idea how this could be brought back to a glossy shine to match the rest of the bodywork?

[Hammer]

my 90 red ZR-1 is pretty sharp, but the upper rear body panel (the one which houses the rear lights) just looks so dull and plasticy. In fact when you feel it and press it, it seems as if it is just a thin piece of plastic! Has anyone any idea how this could be brought back to a glossy shine to match the rest of the bodywork?

Richard,
Try just rubbing the paint gently with a little with your favorite wax on one finger, wipe it off and if the clearcoat starts to get a little brighter then you can probably bring it back with some waxing and specialized products. I can highly recommend Adams wax products. Your car will outshine all others, guaranteed.

http://www.adamspolishes.com/default.aspx

Look over some of the videos and then see if you think you might be able to bring the clearcoat back. Give them a call (if you can) and they will help.

Adams also has some terrific forums that are always helpful. Join in, post up and you will get a lot of help there too. I would suggest the forums prior to buying. Take some good pictures of the paint before posting also.

http://www.adamsforums.com/forums/index.php

Watch it though, you could become a waxer.

Good Luck

[xlr8nflorida]

my 90 red ZR-1 is pretty sharp, but the upper rear body panel (the one which houses the rear lights) just looks so dull and plasticy. In fact when you feel it and press it, it seems as if it is just a thin piece of plastic! Has anyone any idea how this could be brought back to a glossy shine to match the rest of the bodywork?

My first Corvette eventually had a rear bumper problem. I believe it might have been sprayed and then not clear coated. I was just starting out as I had just graduated college.

The real answer is to see if you can hit it with a buffer or wet sand it. Worse case scenario its a repaint at $250-$500.

You will laugh but I had this stuff called "body shine" It was pink in color. My car was a stunning red because of the Pinnacle wax. I would wipe the body shine on the car and it made the bumper look like new again. It would have to be applied each time you washed the car and the downside was that it also had a tendency to collect dust and dirt (more so then normal)

However, if you had a date or wanted your car to look good (instead of dull) it worked like a charm.

Bottom line is many front/rear bumpers fade first because of the rubber bumper. More then likely if you are picky, it will require a repaint to get like new again.

The equivalent today would probably be adams body polish or Zaino Z6 or Z8.

Good Luck.