C-beam Remove and Reinstall

[QB93Z]

During my recent job to replace the crankshaft rear seal, I learned a quick and easy way to remove the C-beam. This procedure may be covered elsewhere on the NetRegistry site, but we took some pictures and a description may help others doing transmission removal.

Thank you to Phil (Jagdpanzer) for showing me this method.

In order to remove the transmission, you have to disconnect the C-beam from the transmission and from the differential. Then the C-beam is still in the way of pulling the transmission out of the bell housing.

Last time I did a transmission removal, (on Darrin's 1990), we pushed the C-beam as far aft (to the rear) as we could and were able to get the transmission out and in OK.

On my 1993, yesterday, we got the transmission out with the C-beam pushed aft, but could not get the clearance we needed to install the transmission into the new clutch and pilot bearing.

So Phil showed us how to get the C-beam completely out.

NOTE: This description does not include all the steps for transmission removal such as removing the exhaust system, the drive shaft and other interference items. NOTE

Step 1: Prior to the job, remove the MAP sensor from the back of the plenum to allow the motor to be tilted down at the back.

Step 2: Raise the car.

Step 3: Disconnect the emergency brake cable where is passes under the C-beam near the differential. This is easily accomplished by unbolting the e-brake cable guide from the passenger side frame rail. This gives enough slack to separate the e-brake cable in the center. This picture is after the C-beam was removed, but it shows the e-brake cable disconnect and the cable guide in Phil's right hand:
http://i407.photobucket.com/albums/pp152/QB93Z/2009%20Aug%20Crank%20Shaft%20Seal/DSC02284.jpg


Step 4: Support the rear of the engine with a jack and remove the C-beam bolts.


Step 5: Push the C-beam forward by sliding it on the transmission until the aft end is clear of the differential housing. (Note this picture is really the reinstall picture showing the dust boot on the rear of the transmission. This is the replacement part I got in a hurry to replace the rear seal. the dust boot interfered with the forward drive shaft U-joint and had to be cut off.):
http://i407.photobucket.com/albums/pp152/QB93Z/2009%20Aug%20Crank%20Shaft%20Seal/DSC02295.jpg

Step 6: Using the jack supporting the engine, lower the back of the engine so that it tilts down. This lowers the aft end of the C-beam below the differential.
http://i407.photobucket.com/albums/pp152/QB93Z/2009%20Aug%20Crank%20Shaft%20Seal/DSC02296.jpg


Step 7: Remove the C-beam from the car by pulling it aft.
http://i407.photobucket.com/albums/pp152/QB93Z/2009%20Aug%20Crank%20Shaft%20Seal/DSC02293.jpg


Step 8: Clean the contact areas of the C-beam, transmission and differential to ensure that the drive train rigidity will not be compromised on reinstallation:
http://i407.photobucket.com/albums/pp152/QB93Z/2009%20Aug%20Crank%20Shaft%20Seal/DSC02280.jpg

http://i407.photobucket.com/albums/pp152/QB93Z/2009%20Aug%20Crank%20Shaft%20Seal/DSC02289.jpg

Reinstall is the reverse. Tilt the engine down, slide the C-beam on the transmission and push it forward as far as it will go, tilt the engine up and slide the C-beam onto the differential.

After completing the work under the car, reinstall the MAP Sensor and check the intake air accordian. It may have slipped on the throttle body extension when the engine was tilted down.

Anyone paying attention may have noticed that the pictures I used are all reinstall pictures. Thank you to Darin for helping lift the transmission twice to stage these pictures.


Jim

[ittlfly]

Great stuff. Thanks, there is nothing like pictures.

[Paul Workman]

Yep! Zackly how we did it yesterday. Works like a charm!

P.

[Kb7tif]

Ah brings back memories. Nice work.

[tccrab]

Great posting, love the pics.
From my own experience I can tell you that getting that C-Beam off is the single most difficult part of a tranny pull.
What were the engineers thinking that designed that?

I propose this be made into a "Sticky" post and maybe we should start up a "How To" permanent post.

GoldieCyclops, what say you?

TomC
"Cras"

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Thanks for taking the time to share as this is my next step and I can really use this info. :handshak:

[flyin ryan]

You are right about the Trans. rear seal with dust boot, is a no-go & must be cut off as you found out.

[rkreigh]

getting the upper bolts can be a pain. bill mentioned using a clamp or vice grips to hold the open end wrench

the beam plates capture the upper nuts and hold them and make removal and reinstall much easier, and stiffen up the mounting points to increase the distribution of the clamping to make the spine of the car stiffer and reduce flexing.

helps plant the power, got em if you need em!:mrgreen:

[pantera1683]

getting the upper bolts can be a pain. bill mentioned using a clamp or vice grips to hold the open end wrench

the beam plates capture the upper nuts and hold them and make removal and reinstall much easier, and stiffen up the mounting points to increase the distribution of the clamping to make the spine of the car stiffer and reduce flexing.

helps plant the power, got em if you need em!:mrgreen:

I used an open end wrench on the nuts and an impact wrench on the bolts, worked like a charm, all four bolts off in about 2 minutes.