Well, well...lookee here!

[Paul Workman]

Stopped working on the Z to eat a "sammitch" (as my daughter used to say), thought I'd share this...

As Jeffvette suggested, changing the inline fuel filter was definitely in order as far as m fuel pressure at WOT goes! All that grit and brown gunk poured out of the inlet end of the old filter!! :jawdrop: Well, I have new filters for the fuel pumps too, and I'll be checking them next, I recon.

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x220/6PPC_bucket/tech%20files/7-5-09013.jpg



I had a vibration at higher speeds (above 145): causing the dash and shifter to "buzz". Someone suggested the C-beam might not be aligned. Sure enough, the alignment was whacked! I found the tail shaft was over 1/2" too high (the bolts were almost touching the roof of the tunnel) and too far to the right by a 1/4. I don't know if this is what lead to my U joint (front) going bad, but none the less...it is!

The grease boot on my right front top ball joint was kaput too, but got a new one on the way.

I think I'll take it down off the jacks now. Ignorance is bliss!! (and a lot cheaper!) :rolleyes:


Well, glad to get it all done at once instead of "one at a time".

P.

[GOLDCYLON]

Thats how mine looked when I changed it out as well. When the filter was dry you could tap the rust dust out of it. You should have seen the rust on my factory fuel injectors. Pull the rear fuel filler boot and take a look at the top of the fuel tank where the sending unit is housed, I bet you need a new gasket. I believe the water that dumps out of the filler boot hole pools up in this area and added to the water and contaminants that all seep into the compromised gasket. Well.... its a theory as my gasket was trashed. :neutral:

[rhipsher]

How do you align the C-beam plate? I thought it aligned itself to the bolt holes and that was it. Maybe I'll learn something new.

[Paul Workman]

How do you align the C-beam plate? I thought it aligned itself to the bolt holes and that was it. Maybe I'll learn something new.

The centerline of the transmission output and the differential input should be as close as possible. According to the powers that be, there should be approx 28 mm space between the right side of the C-beam and the tunnel wall, measured directly across from the U-joint, and 68mm between the top of the tunnel and the top of the C-beam directly above the U-joint.

If the alignment is not true, then vibration can result as well as premature failure of the U-joints (I'm told by Mr ZF6, "Bill B".).

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x220/6PPC_bucket/tech%20files/jigs.jpg

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x220/6PPC_bucket/tech%20files/C-beamspacing.jpg

In any case, the top space was just over 1/2 the length of the 45mm gauge - so close that I could not get the bolt cage jig (a Bill B invention) over the top of the bolts! The alignment was far enough off that I could see the "tweak" of the drive shaft with my eye. For sure, getting that straightened out (after I install the new U-joints) will make for a happier situation. OH! I'm installing Bill B's Beam Plates as well. If for no other reason, it makes installing and uninstalling the C-beam a piece o cake!

P.

[rhipsher]

Interesting. I didn't know that. What would cause a worse vibration? Drive shaft not being aligned or bad wheel bearings?

[Paul Workman]

Interesting. I didn't know that. What would cause a worse vibration? Drive shaft not being aligned or bad wheel bearings?

:dontknow:

I guess that would depend on how bad the alignment or wheel bearing(s) were? A drive shaft/U-joint issue is usually a high-frequency kind of vibration when first detected. When the U-joint finally lets go and the drive shaft breaks loose, the "vibration" gets pretty severe, I recon!:jawdrop:

If you're obliquely suggesting my vibration might be a wheel bearing, I don't think so - partly b/c of the characteristic, and I have checked the wheel bearings out and they seem to be just fine (so far).;)

P.

[tomtom72]

Paul, as you've been farther along on the C-beam than I have. I thought those "removal tools" were also Bill's "feeler gauges" for alignment? The instructions for the beam plates indicated that they could be used as "go/no-go" gauges?

Do I have this back-a$$wards, as usual?:confused:

Oh, and that's the reason I waste $ on a new fuel filter every year, you should have seen what came out of the one in my car after god know how long it was in there, maybe 14 yrs!

[rhipsher]

:dontknow:

I guess that would depend on how bad the alignment or wheel bearing(s) were? A drive shaft/U-joint issue is usually a high-frequency kind of vibration when first detected. When the U-joint finally lets go and the drive shaft breaks loose, the "vibration" gets pretty severe, I recon!:jawdrop:

If you're obliquely suggesting my vibration might be a wheel bearing, I don't think so - partly b/c of the characteristic, and I have checked the wheel bearings out and they seem to be just fine (so far).;)

P. No! I was just asking because I use to be able to take mine up near 180mph on a regular basis. Then I developed this vibration that would get a little worse everytime until I would not take it above 130mph because it was just to violent. I've got all new Spicer ujoints on it now. But even before I replaced them it would vibrate like that. I already know I have three bad wheel bearings and my front tires are old and hard. I will be replaceing those when I get done with P/P work. I even had a four point alignment done and that didn't make any difference at all. But you only notice it when you get above 130mph.