Junkman2008
06-19-2009, 12:00 PM
I have received quite a few PM’s from people asking me what Adam’s products they should buy in order to detail like I do. Well if you want to do the complete interior/exterior detail and you don’t have a thing, you are going to need quite a kit. You don’t have to buy it all at once but this is what I use. Keep in mind that all of Adam’s products are made in the USA and that is why it cost more than your imported stuff. Adam believes in keeping American workers employed. Don’t forget to use the coupon code “Junkman” (without the quotes) in order to get a substantial savings on the total cost of your order.
Here's a list of what you need for starters. Keep in mind that if you use the right amount of each product, this stuff will last you for quite a few cars. Don't let the size of the bottles fool you, one bottle of Swirl and Haze Remover will go a long way!
The Adam's Complete Dual-Action Car Polisher Kit (http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-338-adams-complete-dual-action-car-polisher-kit.aspx) is a great starter kit that contains the following, which I will explain in detail.
Porter-Cable 7424 Dual Action Polisher - This is the Porter-Cable 7424 (http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-371-porter-cable-7424.aspx), or PC for short. It is a dual-action polisher. The fact that it is a dual-action polisher is what makes it safe enough for a novice to use. Dual-action refers to the way that the pad rotates. It mimics the earth's rotation around the sun. The earth rotates but as it is rotating, it is also orbiting around the sun. The pad of the PC does the same thing. Because the pad does not sit in one spot on your paint AND the fact that the PC is not as powerful as a true rotary buffer, it is next to impossible for the PC to harm your paint.
This is what makes a dual-action (or orbital polisher as they are also called), safe for the novice user. :bigthumb:
The diagram below shows the pad motion of the 2 types of buffers. Because the pad of a true rotary buffer only spins and spins at a much higher rate, it can get hot enough to burn or even take the paint off your car!
http://www.pc-surgeon.net/images/cforum/padmotion.jpg
The rotating action of the PC is no where near as powerful. As a matter of fact if you apply too much pressure, the pad of the PC will stop spinning. It will continue to orbit but as you can see by the diagram above, the orbiting action does not sit in one spot on your paint. Because it is moving around (or orbiting) in this manner, it cannot build up enough heat to cause any damage to your paint. This is the safety feature built into a dual-action polisher that makes it ideal for the novice detailer. If you decide to purchase one of these, you will be overjoyed with it's performance. For you folks who have been doing this by hand, your joints will be overjoyed you too!
One thing to note: You can buy this kit with, or without the PC. That comes in handy for those of you who already have a PC.
Adam's 5-7/8" Velcro Backing Plate (http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-337-adams-dual-action-velcro-backing-plate.aspx) - This is the plate that holds the pads which you will swap for the plate that comes on the Porter-Cable-7424 (PC). The plate that comes with the PC is made for 6.6" pads. The Adam's pads are 5.5" and thus, require the smaller plate.
Adam's Foam Pads (1 each orange (http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-334-adams-dual-action-swirl-killer-pad.aspx), white (http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-335-adams-dual-action-polishing-pad.aspx) and black (http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-336-adams-dual-action-wax-pad.aspx)) - These are the pads that you will be buffing with. Orange is for heavy swirl and scratch removal, White is for medium to light swirl and scratch removal, and black is for waxing. If I were you, I would add to this purchase 3 more white pads (http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-335-adams-dual-action-polishing-pad.aspx) and 4 more orange pads (http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-334-adams-dual-action-swirl-killer-pad.aspx). Your orange pads will get the biggest workout next to your white pads. The black pad is used to spread the Machine Superwax and should not get beat up at all since you use no pressure when spreading wax by machine.
Adam's Swirl & Haze Remover Car Polish (16 oz.) (http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-97-adams-swirl-haze-remover-car-polish.aspx) - This is the polish that you will use to remove all manner of scratches and swirls. It can be used on the orange or white pads, and can be thinned by spraying the pads with Adam's Detail Spray. This reduces the cutting power which may be necessary for really light scratches. This swirl and haze remover can also be used by hand. Adam's users call this SHR for short. Buy 1 extra bottle until you masret how little of the product is needed.
Adam's Fine Machine Car Polish (http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-140-adams-fine-machine-car-polish.aspx) (16 oz.) - Also known as FMP to Adam's users, this is used to undo the damage that the orange pad and the Swirl and Haze Remover does, which particularly shows up on dark colored cars. It is the intermediate step between SHR and the wax you decide to use. The car in the picture below would definitely start with SHR and then be followed with FMP. Add one extra bottle to your order.
http://www.pc-surgeon.net/images/cforum/swirlcity4.jpg
Adam's Machine SuperWax (http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-139-adams-machine-superwax.aspx) (16 oz.) - This is the outstanding wax that you will use to obtain that deep shine that you all have seen in my DIY's.
2 - Adam's True Blue Super Plush Microfiber Towels (http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-409-adams-true-blue-super-plush-towels-2-pak.aspx) (16" x 16") - These are the sweet microfiber towels that are heads above the junk you buy in auto stores or Costco. They also DO NOT have a tag sewn into the seam like the cheap, low quality towels from China do. These towels, as well as every product sold by Adam's are made with quality and care in the good ol' USA. Buy as many of these as you can afford. You can never have too many as you will find out. MAKE SURE that you follow my posted instructions on how to wash them!!! You can read my care instructions here (http://www.adamsforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2117). :bigthumb:
Adam's Detail Spray (16 oz.) - This product has multiple uses. It is used to wet the pads as I described earlier, and it is also used to wipe the car down after waxing or as a quick detailer. This is some sweet stuff that you will quickly go through so I suggest you add a 5 gallon supply (http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-20-detail-spray-5-gallon.aspx) of it to your order.
Adam's All-Purpose Cleaner (http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-121-adams-all-purpose-cleaner.aspx) - Just what it says, you can use it to clean a boat load of stuff! Add a gallon (http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-117-1-gallon-adams-all-purpose-cleaner.aspx) of it to your order. You will be glad that you did after you start using it.
These next items will need to be added to this order.Adam's Super Foamy Car Wash Gun (http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-385-adams-super-foamy-car-wash-gun-bonus.aspx). In order to appreciate why you would need to buy the foam gun, you must first understand its purpose. First, take a look at this video of what the foam gun does:
Foam Gun (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RFIILkkdqaA&eurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Eyoutube%2Ecom%2Fmy%5Fvideo s%5Fedit2%3Fns%3D1%26video%5Fid%3DRFIILkkdqaA%26ne xt%3D%252Fmy%5Fvideos2%253Fpi%253D0%2526ps%253D20i url%3Dhttp%3A%2F%2Fi3%2Eytimg%2Ecom%2Fvi%2FRFIILkk dqaA%2Fhqdefault%2Ejpg&feature=player_embedded)
The purpose of the foam gun is to soak the car down in a thick, rich lather which will loosen up all of the caked on dirt and grit. The foam gun does not power dirt off the car and it is NOT a high pressure sprayer. It is ONLY a super soaker if you will. So why do you need it you ask? Read on.
Ninety percent of all swirls and scratches are introduced to your finish during the washing process. If you wash the car improperly or use the wrong materials to wash the car, your finish will quickly begin to look like the black car above. The last thing you want to do is take a mitt full of soap and go across you dry, dirty finish. That does nothing but grind all that surface dirt into your paint.
You can knock a lot of the surface dirt off the car by initially rinsing the car. However, that caked on film will remain. By soaking the car with foam, you loosen up that caked on film and thus, lessen the opportunity for that film to scratch the paint as you are washing the car. This is the sole purpose and very important reason you need a foam gun. Some people may be turned off by its price. To those folks, I offer up my car's finish as a testament to its effectiveness.
http://www.pc-surgeon.net/images/cforum/carwash_bay.jpg
That my friends is the wet look.
One of the most important items that gets overlooked, and is critical to a brilliant shine is the Adam’s Detailing Clay Bar (http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-36-adams-detailing-clay-bar.aspx). The process of claying removes all of the grit and impurities from the clear coat. It does not remove scratches or swirls, just dirt. This is extremely necessary before you do any kind of paint correction and if not completed, will affect the final outcome of all your work. Do not skip this step or you will not be happy with your results. A liitle sweat at the beginning will result in a lot of shine later. Check out this link (http://www.adamsforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2170&highlight=junkman+clay) for a detailed description on the claying process.
You will need something to wash the car with without scratching it up. That will be the Adam's Wash Pads (http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-83-adams-professional-wash-pad.aspx). They hold a lot of soap and will not scratch the car whatsoever (unless you get dirt and grime embedded in them). However, if you follow my wash routine, this won't happen.
The next thing that you will need is two buckets to use during your wash. One bucket is for the soap, and the other bucket is for rinsing out your wash mitt. The proper procedure is to start at the top of the car and wash your way down to the halfway point (usually, the door protecting moldings). Then, use a second mitt to do the lower half of the car. Never use the mitt for the tires, undercarriage or wheel wells. Adam's has other goodies specifically made (http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-413-adams-tire-wheel-essentials-kit.aspx) for those areas.
The buckets are only half of the washing equation. It is what the buckets contain that drastically protects your finish. In the business, it is known as the Grit Guard System (http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-57-adams-premium-bucket-caddy-grit-guard-caddy-ships-separately.aspx). The Grit Guards are the inserts that sit in the bottom of the buckets. As you remove dirt from the car during the wash, you scrub the mitt across the Grit Guards which helps deposit the dirt and grime in the mitt to the bottom of the bucket. The design of the Grit Guard not only helps keep the mitts grit free, but it also keeps the grit and dirt from rising back up into your wash soap. This significantly reduces your wash water from becoming contaminated with dirt, which would normally end up back on the car creating scratches and swirls. Couple your wash technique with a rinse bucket, and you have practically eliminated the opportunity for scratches and swirls.
I love these buckets, especially the fact that I can roll them around. The Junkman is not a spring chicken anymore! However if you are on a budget, you can purchase the Grit Guard Inserts (http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-56-adams-grit-guard-bucket-insert.aspx) separately. Take one of the inserts with you to a Wal-Mart and test fit them in one of the 5-gallon buckets they sell. The insert MUST fit all the way to the bottom of the bucket in order to be effective. This will help keep the cost down for those of you who just got through thinking, "That's a pricey bucket!"
For further reading on the Grit Guard bucket, check out this write up I did (http://www.adamsforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=429) on them.
Let's not forget about those tires. You want the black and wet look without actually having that stuff slinging upon your paint. For that, you want to purchase the Adam's Vinyl, Rubber and Tire Kit (VRT) (http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-101-adams-vrt-vinyl-rubber-tire-dressing.aspx). Unlike most of the stuff on the market, this is not a spray, it is more like a lotion. That means, you won't have product spraying all over your rims, or on your windshield when doing the dash. This also means that all the product stays on the tires and does not end up all over your fenders. That is VERY important to me as some products can actually eat through your finish. Use this stuff sparringly, especially on the dashboards. Don't put so much on that it leaves a greasy wet film because that will just attract dust. Use a little and rub it in real good. A little goes a long way. How good does it look? Well have a look for yourself.
http://www.pc-surgeon.net/images/cforum/dusty_ride9.jpg
VRT goes on wet looking, not wet! It makes the tires look black, not shiny. Tires are not supposed to be shiny. That why I like and use VRT
Here's a cool item. Need to clean your wheels? Break out a drill and order you a Adam's GREEN Clean PowerStick with 16oz Green Wheel Cleaner (http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-405-adams-green-clean-powerstick-with-16oz-green-wheel-cleaner.aspx). I got sick and tires of beating my knuckles up against my wheels so I had to get one of these. Man, this thing is a knuckle saver big time! Use this in conjunction with the wheel cleaning supplies (http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-413-adams-tire-wheel-essentials-kit.aspx) that I posted about earlier.
The last thing you will need for the exterior is the Adam's Metal Polish. (http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-68-adams-metal-polish.aspx) Get the 16oz. bottle. This is for cleaning polished rims (not clear coated!). It will make them shine like glass.
For the interior, I would suggest you get the Adam's Perfect Interior Kit. (http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-348-adams-perfect-interior-kit.aspx). This will cover everything that you will run into inside the car. Again, don't get all crazy with how much of this stuff that you use, A little bit goes a long way. Rub the cleaners in real good and allow it to work for you.
Again, here's the deal. This is some expensive stuff but like I said, a little goes a long way. Also, EVERYTHING Adam's sells is made in America. That means Americans keeping money in America. Adam is very proud of this and this is also why his products are more expensive.
That’s about it for starters. I can easily makes what this kit cost in a matter of 10 customers who just wanted a wash, wax and interior done, or 1 SUV that wanted a complete paint correction treatment (were I clay the car and remove all of the swirls). For me, that job would take a week but I'm old and slow. You may or may not be that good yet but you have to get good in order to command the prices I do. :)
Well, I'm off to battle some swirls!
http://www.pc-surgeon.net/images/cforum/gameface.jpg
The Junkman
Here's a list of what you need for starters. Keep in mind that if you use the right amount of each product, this stuff will last you for quite a few cars. Don't let the size of the bottles fool you, one bottle of Swirl and Haze Remover will go a long way!
The Adam's Complete Dual-Action Car Polisher Kit (http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-338-adams-complete-dual-action-car-polisher-kit.aspx) is a great starter kit that contains the following, which I will explain in detail.
Porter-Cable 7424 Dual Action Polisher - This is the Porter-Cable 7424 (http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-371-porter-cable-7424.aspx), or PC for short. It is a dual-action polisher. The fact that it is a dual-action polisher is what makes it safe enough for a novice to use. Dual-action refers to the way that the pad rotates. It mimics the earth's rotation around the sun. The earth rotates but as it is rotating, it is also orbiting around the sun. The pad of the PC does the same thing. Because the pad does not sit in one spot on your paint AND the fact that the PC is not as powerful as a true rotary buffer, it is next to impossible for the PC to harm your paint.
This is what makes a dual-action (or orbital polisher as they are also called), safe for the novice user. :bigthumb:
The diagram below shows the pad motion of the 2 types of buffers. Because the pad of a true rotary buffer only spins and spins at a much higher rate, it can get hot enough to burn or even take the paint off your car!
http://www.pc-surgeon.net/images/cforum/padmotion.jpg
The rotating action of the PC is no where near as powerful. As a matter of fact if you apply too much pressure, the pad of the PC will stop spinning. It will continue to orbit but as you can see by the diagram above, the orbiting action does not sit in one spot on your paint. Because it is moving around (or orbiting) in this manner, it cannot build up enough heat to cause any damage to your paint. This is the safety feature built into a dual-action polisher that makes it ideal for the novice detailer. If you decide to purchase one of these, you will be overjoyed with it's performance. For you folks who have been doing this by hand, your joints will be overjoyed you too!
One thing to note: You can buy this kit with, or without the PC. That comes in handy for those of you who already have a PC.
Adam's 5-7/8" Velcro Backing Plate (http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-337-adams-dual-action-velcro-backing-plate.aspx) - This is the plate that holds the pads which you will swap for the plate that comes on the Porter-Cable-7424 (PC). The plate that comes with the PC is made for 6.6" pads. The Adam's pads are 5.5" and thus, require the smaller plate.
Adam's Foam Pads (1 each orange (http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-334-adams-dual-action-swirl-killer-pad.aspx), white (http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-335-adams-dual-action-polishing-pad.aspx) and black (http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-336-adams-dual-action-wax-pad.aspx)) - These are the pads that you will be buffing with. Orange is for heavy swirl and scratch removal, White is for medium to light swirl and scratch removal, and black is for waxing. If I were you, I would add to this purchase 3 more white pads (http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-335-adams-dual-action-polishing-pad.aspx) and 4 more orange pads (http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-334-adams-dual-action-swirl-killer-pad.aspx). Your orange pads will get the biggest workout next to your white pads. The black pad is used to spread the Machine Superwax and should not get beat up at all since you use no pressure when spreading wax by machine.
Adam's Swirl & Haze Remover Car Polish (16 oz.) (http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-97-adams-swirl-haze-remover-car-polish.aspx) - This is the polish that you will use to remove all manner of scratches and swirls. It can be used on the orange or white pads, and can be thinned by spraying the pads with Adam's Detail Spray. This reduces the cutting power which may be necessary for really light scratches. This swirl and haze remover can also be used by hand. Adam's users call this SHR for short. Buy 1 extra bottle until you masret how little of the product is needed.
Adam's Fine Machine Car Polish (http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-140-adams-fine-machine-car-polish.aspx) (16 oz.) - Also known as FMP to Adam's users, this is used to undo the damage that the orange pad and the Swirl and Haze Remover does, which particularly shows up on dark colored cars. It is the intermediate step between SHR and the wax you decide to use. The car in the picture below would definitely start with SHR and then be followed with FMP. Add one extra bottle to your order.
http://www.pc-surgeon.net/images/cforum/swirlcity4.jpg
Adam's Machine SuperWax (http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-139-adams-machine-superwax.aspx) (16 oz.) - This is the outstanding wax that you will use to obtain that deep shine that you all have seen in my DIY's.
2 - Adam's True Blue Super Plush Microfiber Towels (http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-409-adams-true-blue-super-plush-towels-2-pak.aspx) (16" x 16") - These are the sweet microfiber towels that are heads above the junk you buy in auto stores or Costco. They also DO NOT have a tag sewn into the seam like the cheap, low quality towels from China do. These towels, as well as every product sold by Adam's are made with quality and care in the good ol' USA. Buy as many of these as you can afford. You can never have too many as you will find out. MAKE SURE that you follow my posted instructions on how to wash them!!! You can read my care instructions here (http://www.adamsforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2117). :bigthumb:
Adam's Detail Spray (16 oz.) - This product has multiple uses. It is used to wet the pads as I described earlier, and it is also used to wipe the car down after waxing or as a quick detailer. This is some sweet stuff that you will quickly go through so I suggest you add a 5 gallon supply (http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-20-detail-spray-5-gallon.aspx) of it to your order.
Adam's All-Purpose Cleaner (http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-121-adams-all-purpose-cleaner.aspx) - Just what it says, you can use it to clean a boat load of stuff! Add a gallon (http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-117-1-gallon-adams-all-purpose-cleaner.aspx) of it to your order. You will be glad that you did after you start using it.
These next items will need to be added to this order.Adam's Super Foamy Car Wash Gun (http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-385-adams-super-foamy-car-wash-gun-bonus.aspx). In order to appreciate why you would need to buy the foam gun, you must first understand its purpose. First, take a look at this video of what the foam gun does:
Foam Gun (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RFIILkkdqaA&eurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Eyoutube%2Ecom%2Fmy%5Fvideo s%5Fedit2%3Fns%3D1%26video%5Fid%3DRFIILkkdqaA%26ne xt%3D%252Fmy%5Fvideos2%253Fpi%253D0%2526ps%253D20i url%3Dhttp%3A%2F%2Fi3%2Eytimg%2Ecom%2Fvi%2FRFIILkk dqaA%2Fhqdefault%2Ejpg&feature=player_embedded)
The purpose of the foam gun is to soak the car down in a thick, rich lather which will loosen up all of the caked on dirt and grit. The foam gun does not power dirt off the car and it is NOT a high pressure sprayer. It is ONLY a super soaker if you will. So why do you need it you ask? Read on.
Ninety percent of all swirls and scratches are introduced to your finish during the washing process. If you wash the car improperly or use the wrong materials to wash the car, your finish will quickly begin to look like the black car above. The last thing you want to do is take a mitt full of soap and go across you dry, dirty finish. That does nothing but grind all that surface dirt into your paint.
You can knock a lot of the surface dirt off the car by initially rinsing the car. However, that caked on film will remain. By soaking the car with foam, you loosen up that caked on film and thus, lessen the opportunity for that film to scratch the paint as you are washing the car. This is the sole purpose and very important reason you need a foam gun. Some people may be turned off by its price. To those folks, I offer up my car's finish as a testament to its effectiveness.
http://www.pc-surgeon.net/images/cforum/carwash_bay.jpg
That my friends is the wet look.
One of the most important items that gets overlooked, and is critical to a brilliant shine is the Adam’s Detailing Clay Bar (http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-36-adams-detailing-clay-bar.aspx). The process of claying removes all of the grit and impurities from the clear coat. It does not remove scratches or swirls, just dirt. This is extremely necessary before you do any kind of paint correction and if not completed, will affect the final outcome of all your work. Do not skip this step or you will not be happy with your results. A liitle sweat at the beginning will result in a lot of shine later. Check out this link (http://www.adamsforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2170&highlight=junkman+clay) for a detailed description on the claying process.
You will need something to wash the car with without scratching it up. That will be the Adam's Wash Pads (http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-83-adams-professional-wash-pad.aspx). They hold a lot of soap and will not scratch the car whatsoever (unless you get dirt and grime embedded in them). However, if you follow my wash routine, this won't happen.
The next thing that you will need is two buckets to use during your wash. One bucket is for the soap, and the other bucket is for rinsing out your wash mitt. The proper procedure is to start at the top of the car and wash your way down to the halfway point (usually, the door protecting moldings). Then, use a second mitt to do the lower half of the car. Never use the mitt for the tires, undercarriage or wheel wells. Adam's has other goodies specifically made (http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-413-adams-tire-wheel-essentials-kit.aspx) for those areas.
The buckets are only half of the washing equation. It is what the buckets contain that drastically protects your finish. In the business, it is known as the Grit Guard System (http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-57-adams-premium-bucket-caddy-grit-guard-caddy-ships-separately.aspx). The Grit Guards are the inserts that sit in the bottom of the buckets. As you remove dirt from the car during the wash, you scrub the mitt across the Grit Guards which helps deposit the dirt and grime in the mitt to the bottom of the bucket. The design of the Grit Guard not only helps keep the mitts grit free, but it also keeps the grit and dirt from rising back up into your wash soap. This significantly reduces your wash water from becoming contaminated with dirt, which would normally end up back on the car creating scratches and swirls. Couple your wash technique with a rinse bucket, and you have practically eliminated the opportunity for scratches and swirls.
I love these buckets, especially the fact that I can roll them around. The Junkman is not a spring chicken anymore! However if you are on a budget, you can purchase the Grit Guard Inserts (http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-56-adams-grit-guard-bucket-insert.aspx) separately. Take one of the inserts with you to a Wal-Mart and test fit them in one of the 5-gallon buckets they sell. The insert MUST fit all the way to the bottom of the bucket in order to be effective. This will help keep the cost down for those of you who just got through thinking, "That's a pricey bucket!"
For further reading on the Grit Guard bucket, check out this write up I did (http://www.adamsforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=429) on them.
Let's not forget about those tires. You want the black and wet look without actually having that stuff slinging upon your paint. For that, you want to purchase the Adam's Vinyl, Rubber and Tire Kit (VRT) (http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-101-adams-vrt-vinyl-rubber-tire-dressing.aspx). Unlike most of the stuff on the market, this is not a spray, it is more like a lotion. That means, you won't have product spraying all over your rims, or on your windshield when doing the dash. This also means that all the product stays on the tires and does not end up all over your fenders. That is VERY important to me as some products can actually eat through your finish. Use this stuff sparringly, especially on the dashboards. Don't put so much on that it leaves a greasy wet film because that will just attract dust. Use a little and rub it in real good. A little goes a long way. How good does it look? Well have a look for yourself.
http://www.pc-surgeon.net/images/cforum/dusty_ride9.jpg
VRT goes on wet looking, not wet! It makes the tires look black, not shiny. Tires are not supposed to be shiny. That why I like and use VRT
Here's a cool item. Need to clean your wheels? Break out a drill and order you a Adam's GREEN Clean PowerStick with 16oz Green Wheel Cleaner (http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-405-adams-green-clean-powerstick-with-16oz-green-wheel-cleaner.aspx). I got sick and tires of beating my knuckles up against my wheels so I had to get one of these. Man, this thing is a knuckle saver big time! Use this in conjunction with the wheel cleaning supplies (http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-413-adams-tire-wheel-essentials-kit.aspx) that I posted about earlier.
The last thing you will need for the exterior is the Adam's Metal Polish. (http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-68-adams-metal-polish.aspx) Get the 16oz. bottle. This is for cleaning polished rims (not clear coated!). It will make them shine like glass.
For the interior, I would suggest you get the Adam's Perfect Interior Kit. (http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-348-adams-perfect-interior-kit.aspx). This will cover everything that you will run into inside the car. Again, don't get all crazy with how much of this stuff that you use, A little bit goes a long way. Rub the cleaners in real good and allow it to work for you.
Again, here's the deal. This is some expensive stuff but like I said, a little goes a long way. Also, EVERYTHING Adam's sells is made in America. That means Americans keeping money in America. Adam is very proud of this and this is also why his products are more expensive.
That’s about it for starters. I can easily makes what this kit cost in a matter of 10 customers who just wanted a wash, wax and interior done, or 1 SUV that wanted a complete paint correction treatment (were I clay the car and remove all of the swirls). For me, that job would take a week but I'm old and slow. You may or may not be that good yet but you have to get good in order to command the prices I do. :)
Well, I'm off to battle some swirls!
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The Junkman