Tired of busted vacuum hose (aka spider)

[secondchance]

As I am waiting for the last pieces (Samco PCV hose kit) before pulling the plenum for the 4th time, I decided to attempt replacing as much of vacuum line as possible with aluminum tube.

I went to a local hobby shop and bought 36" long 5/32" and 3/16" aluminum tubes. When I pull the plenum, I am going to see if I can replace as much of vacuum hoses as possible w/ either alum. tubes depending on the condition of rubber fittings. Also, I will be picking up assorted rubber fittings at local Discount Auto just in case. I will be sealing all fittings with high-temp sillicone.

I will be replacing all injectors, clean as much as possible, and replace PCV hoses (intake to crankcase and pigtail PCV to air horn and behind the motor).

If successful, I will take some pics and post what I learn.

If I am missing anything, please give me a holler.

[A26B]

That's a great idea. I've thought about doing it with ss tube, but the alum may be easier to work with. Either way, a good tubing bender will help.

[threestar40]

Make a few sets as you go and we will all buy them from you when you're finished as long as you don't rape us ;).

Seriously though, I'm with you on that cheap plastic stuff...it does work pretty well for a good long while though I have to say.

Good luck bending your new lines. I've done a very minor amount of bending myself.

What do ya'll think about filling the tubes up with water, then freezing them, then bending them to keep them from crushing?

Also if you find a long spring that has an OD exactly the size of your tubes ID you may be able to do it by hand using one of these techniques.

I've never tried either of them, but it seems like it may work?

Anyone ever tried it?

Rick :iamwithst

[secondchance]

I ordered a "miniature tube bender" suppose to work with 3/16 to 1/4.
Some kind of flexible rubber or plastic rod should work to a point but "S" shape may be hard.
We shall see.

[secondchance]

A few thoughts:

1. Freezing water inside and bending ( sort of hydro-freeze forming) - tube may crimp and just push the ice out.
2. Possibly fill the tube w/ sand, bend, then blow out sand - worth trying.
3. Look for flexible rod for insertion before bending - another trip to a hobby shop.
4. Use high quality rubber elbows - less desirable but doable.
5. Hopefully bending tool (similar to exhaust pipe bender) can handle most, if not all, bends needed.

[A26B]

I've bent quite a bit of ss instrument tubing when I worked in a petro chemical plant many moons ago. This is the best type of tubing bender to use. I think a 3/16 od tube bender uses a 5/8" radius, plenty tight for what you are doing. If you have a wholesale tool store or big pawn shop, eBay? around, you might get one on the cheap

http://www.plumbersurplus.com/Prod/Ridgid-36117-Tube-Bender-3-16-No-403/64518/Cat/649

[Z51JEFF]

I just bent up a solid fuel line for my 64 Nova.To keep the bends from collapsing I got some fine media from a bead blaster and packed the tube with it.Works like a charm.To pack the media,plug one end,fill the tube,tap it down and repeat until the tube is full and cap the tube.

[tccrab]

I've bent quite a bit of ss instrument tubing when I worked in a petro chemical plant many moons ago. This is the best type of tubing bender to use. I think a 3/16 od tube bender uses a 5/8" radius, plenty tight for what you are doing. If you have a wholesale tool store or big pawn shop, eBay? around, you might get one on the cheap

http://www.plumbersurplus.com/Prod/Ridgid-36117-Tube-Bender-3-16-No-403/64518/Cat/649

Jerry:

I've got one of these at my lab. I use it for bending SS and copper tubing for the compressed gasses that are used on our GCMS's (lab equipment).
http://www.sigmaaldrich.com/catalog/ProductDetail.do?N4=20424U|SUPELCO&N5=SEARCH_CONCAT_PNO|BRAND_KEY&F=SPEC
Works great on smaller diameter pipes (1/8 - 1/4).

TomC
"Crabs"

[8upZR1]

Ive bent a good amount of brake and nitrous systems and Ive never used anything to support the tube from inside. I use just a standard hand held bender and no problems ever. ID never looks choked.

Over the years however I have come to hate all hard lines. The only ones I find acceptable now are the double flare to AN style, held on by tube nut and sleeve. These I like cause its easy to go to SS braided. I have just now removed all, well 99%, of hard lines from my ZR1. My entire brake system is SS braided teflon. My steering rack still has 2 hard lines that tuck neatly and dont need routine service so they have been retained, but otherwise its SS braided teflon. I couldnt be happier about ditching the hard lines.

Perhaps you should consider a quality hose instead. I know it will be more expensive then hard line but IMO its nicer and easier. Good luck, Id love to see pics.

[secondchance]

Last time I replaced vacuum line was about 7 years ago. The hose was broken in one place and a lot of rubber fitting hard hose connections were stretched and loose.

My major concern is sealing hard hose (alum. or plastic) to rubber fittings. Last time I did this i used a dab of silicone on platic tube, inserted the hose into rubber fitting and topped it off with epoxy.

This was good for 7 years. When I open up, I will know for sure where it has failed.

Once I determine where it failed and why will dictate what material and what needs to be done.

With all you guys cheering on I better find some worthwhile solution.:cheers:

[Z51JEFF]

Last time I replaced vacuum line was about 7 years ago. The hose was broken in one place and a lot of rubber fitting hard hose connections were stretched and loose.

My major concern is sealing hard hose (alum. or plastic) to rubber fittings.

You could flair the hard line to help the ends seal.

[tomtom72]

I thought some one recently posted up about finding the hard plastic tubing and the end fittings at a local big chain parts store, maybe AutoZone? They said the tubing was in rolls and the fittings were sold per piece and all the stuff was filed under "emissions" parts....not make & model specific, but in "generic" like the stuff on the "Help" display.

The OEM spyder on my car was 17 yrs old but only 7400 mi, and had no leaks when I tested it. That was back in 9/05. The replacement copy I bought has been in since then and has a lot of miles & very little time, almost 27k miles & 4 yrs, and still holds vacuum.

I was thinking about using regular vacuum hose before I bought the replacement spyder and eliminating the fittings by going directly on the nipples. To keep it off of the hot metal I was gonna use spark plug wire looms.:dontknow:

[secondchance]

Discount auto carries hard plastic lines in rolls and sassorted hard rubber fittings that looked more elastic than factory stuff.

My only concern is hard plastic will degrade w/ time and temperture like the factory tubes.

With out having removed the plenum yet, I don't even know whether its a seal issue at fittings or cut line.

I will find out soon.

[jonszr1]

also check the ck valves they have a tendancy to fail